Rudy Kouhoupt Pioneer Engine

[toolznthings]

More pictures of the crank build .....

[toolznthings]

One more, the finished crankshaft .....

[tvoght]

...
At the lathe I center drilled the shaft end and took a few thousands skim cut of the center drilled hole with the compound
set at 30 degrees and a small boring bar. Insures a true center hole.
...

Hi Brian,
I'm enjoying this new build from you. It's the little tricks like the one I quoted that will keep me coming back.

--Tim

[Dave Otto]

Nicely done Brian!


Dave

[toolznthings]

Machining the connecting rod .....

Thanks, Dave and Tim 

Making the connecting rod from 660 bronze and changing the design/style from the print.

Machined a blank to make the rod and rod cap. Drilled and tapped the rod body and drilled clearance holes in the cap.
The two parts were assembled with the mill vise providing side to side alignment.

Drilled and reamed holes were made at the wrist pin end and at the split line of the cap and rod body.
I added some drilled holes for appearance and to be used to fixture for the cnc mill operation.

Mounted to a fixture plate using shoulder bolts for location and socket head screws in the body of the rod for additional clamping.
I indicated the shoulder bolt hole before mounting the blank to get my 0,0 location.

Machined the contoured shape of the rod assembly. Also, engrave match marks, letter "A".

The finished rod.

[toolznthings]

Machining the wrist pin and cylinder ....

I made the wrist pin from a .250 dowel pin. I cut the dowel pin at each end shorter than the overall length needed for the pin.
Both ends were then center drilled. I made two brass tips that would be held into each end of the dowel with Locktite.
The tips were then turned to match the dowel diameter and faced to the correct overall length.
The dowel gives a nice diameter for the connecting rod and the brass will prevent any marring of the cylinder wall.

Two pictures ....

The cylinder is made from cast iron.

First operation turned the o.d. to size.

The cooling fins were then cut using a parting tool. Each groove and fin are 3/32" wide.

With the fins complete I rough drilled the bore and set up a boring bar to machine the cylinder bore to 1.125" in diameter.
No honing or polishing operations were done after boring. Bored to size with a good turned finish.

The end register diameter was then completed and the cylinder was parted off from the remaining stock.

Held in soft jaws the overall length was faced and the register on this end was finished.

Setup at the mill the six 4-40 drilled and tapped holes were machine in the first flange next the register diameter.

A simple plate fixture was made and fastened to the tapped end. The fixture is made to align the first set of holes to the ones
being added to this end. Both sets of holes must be in line with each other.

The finished cylinder.

[toolznthings]

More operations and finished .......

[zeeprogrammer]

Following along Brian. 

[Dave Otto]

Brian I see that you pretty much mastered swarfless machining.
Looking great!


Dave

[toolznthings]

Thanks, Z !

Brian I see that you pretty much mastered swarfless machining.
Looking great!

Dave

There's a couple of chips here and there !

[toolznthings]

Cast iron piston .....

The piston is made from cast iron and the outside diameter is .0005" to .0008" smaller than the cylinder bore.
The piston uses no rings and only has some oil grooves machined in the diameter.

After finishing the diameter and length the piston is held in a three jaw chuck at the mill with brass shim stock
to protect the finish. The slot for the connecting rod is mill next.

The next set up in the vise is for the wrist pin hole. Indicating the milled slot to align the piston. Drilled and reamed
.250" for a slip fit to the wrist pin.

[toolznthings]

Machining the cylinder head .....

Face milling to thickness and squaring up the four sides from 6061-T6 aluminum.

The next step is to bore a shallow reference diameter in the center of the blank for indicating at the lathe.

The first bore is 1.125 diameter and .438 deep with a 1/8" radius in the corner. Boring bar ground with radius.

The second bore is .125 deep and 1.375 in diameter to match the end of the cylinder with a slip fit.

Several setups at the mill to add tapped holes and .312 diameter holes for the carburetor and exhaust ports.

Set up to cut the fins across the head. Nine places .125" wide and two .188 at each end by .125 deep.

Last operation is to drill and counter bore the 4-40 socket head screws to fasten to the cylinder.

Picture showing head, cylinder support and a spacer block that mounts to the underside of the head and base plate.

[toolznthings]

The last pictures of the cylinder head .....

[toolznthings]

Machining the valves and valve housings .....

I made the two valves from 303 stainless steel. Using one of my modified small diameter live centers
I turned the stem diameter to .125" diameter and finished the major head diameter to .438".
The 45 degree valve seat was also cut in this setup. The centered end was cut off and the overall length
was finished to 2.062"

The valve housings were made from 660 bronze and both the intake and exhaust are the same.

The overall size of the housings were machined first. I machined a trial piece from pvc plastic for a visual guide
for the rest of the operations. The bronze is pricey so trying to avoid errors.

The next five milling operations established the overall features of the part.

I then roughed out the area to be turned to .375" in diameter back .500"with a end mill leaving some stock.

I finished the .375" diameter at the mill with a boring head and the boring bar set so I could cut a diameter.
This will allow me to hold the part in a collet and do all the bores, thru hole and valve seat from the seating side
of the valve obtaining the best concentricity.

I did a back face to finish the face where the boring head operation stopped the .375" diameter.
A small boring bar finished the bores and valve seat. A .126" diameter reamer finished the thru hole for the valve stem.

All the mounting thru holes were then drill at the mill along with all the required tapped holes.

A few minutes of lapping the valves finished the housing.

[toolznthings]

Continued posting pictures of valve housings ......