Author Topic: BF20L Mill Stand  (Read 2621 times)

Offline Joco

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BF20L Mill Stand
« on: December 29, 2016, 11:35:08 AM »
The next stage in the workshop setup is underway, fabrication of a stand for my BF20L mill/drill unit.  The plan is still a little fluid as I grabble with balancing getting a rigid design while trying to maximise floor space usage.

Pics attached show:
#1: the plans, but another variation is already being pondered where I revert to spans around the lower legs and reduce the angle bracing at the top and accept I can't store the band saw under the table but get more rigid legs as a result.

#2: All the steel parts that are not up for revision (basically the legs and top) cleaned and cut ready for welding

#3: The main runners of the top with the ends capped.  Not a bad effort if I do say so myself   8)   They almost look bought.

More pics as I progress with the build and refine the design.

Cheers,
J.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2017, 05:14:44 AM »
Carrying on with the mill stand build ...

Got the top all tacked then welded and the legs all tacked into place.  Starting to look like a stand now.

Pic #1: Centre supports for the mill to sit on all lined up and clamped in place.
Pic #2: Centres welded and ready tack up legs
Pic #3: Legs positioned and tacked in place.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Graham G

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2017, 08:49:44 AM »
Hi there James, Firstly Happy new Year to you and yours from Me and Mine  :cheers:.
Your frame design looks great and should stand the test of time :whoohoo:.
Cheers
Graham

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2017, 10:29:55 AM »
Thanks Graham - happy New Year to you and yours as well.   :cheers:

I'm still tweaking the design and trying to figure out if I am going to have to put runners around the bottom (see attachement plans).   This will make the legs nice and stiff but means I can't slot the bandsaw under the table and so I will need to figure out floor space for it to live somewhere.  However it will mean I have space to put storage and a computer cabinet for when I CNC the mill.   It's all trade-offs    :thinking:

James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2017, 12:13:21 AM »
Fully welded the legs up this morning and put the work on the ground ... heck it LOOKS like a table/stand thing.    :ThumbsUp:

Next is doing the height adjustable feet.  I might keep this approach a little simpler and easier than the lathe stand since it doesn't have so much weight on it (100KG less).

I'm still on the fence re the best way to brace the legs.  Oh well, will have to make a decision today/tomorrow so I can get this finished.  Well finished enough that I know need to the sheet metal for drip tray to complete things.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 02:34:00 AM by Joco »
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline bruedney

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2017, 12:19:42 AM »
Hi James

Just thought about bracing

Welded cross beams on 3 of the four openings and the fourth  removable one held in place using clevis pins

What do you think?

Bruce
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 12:41:46 AM by bruedney »
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2017, 01:30:00 AM »
I like that general concept.  Taking it a step further I'm thinking of welding the long gaps (front and back) and using this idea on the sides.  This means I can still do my plan of pushing the band saw under the table and still have the ability to chose final position of the stand.  If I fix all but one side then I really only have one way of placing it in the garage foot print I have to use.   If I can open up either side then I have two viable options for placing the mill.

I will still do some form of 45 degree angle bracing on the sides and on the back.  Not sure if I'll use some of the 6mm steel with 130mm sided triangle gussets or some of the SHS per the plan diagram.  Any ideas on if there is a better approach for that bracing is appreciated. I'm leaning toward the SHS based model for the back of the frame.  The 6mm thick gussets might be an option for the sides as they will take less space.

Cheers,
J.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2017, 10:19:24 AM »
Worked on the Mill Stand's feet today using a variation of the approach used for the lathe stand.

Things went pretty well I think.

Pic #1: initial blanks
Pic #2: Nut welded in place and then later used as a tapping guide.
Pic #3: Tapped all the way through into the 6mm mounting plate.
Pic #4: l Placed and ready for welding.
Pic #5: Example of the final feet. Not the best welding but it will hold enough for the forces in play.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2017, 08:48:13 AM »
Some more progress on the mill stand.   I managed to work out a way to get a home for the bandsaw elsewhere in the garage which allowed me to simplify the design and just weld it all up.   :ThumbsUp:

So here are a couple of pics.

Pic #1: Overview of welded frame to date.   Bottom frame is done but yet to do all the bracing yet.

Pic #2: Close up of one of the wheel mounting plates and the associated bracing to help spread the weight.  Plus I had this 80x80 angle iron that was just crying out to get some use.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2017, 06:21:41 AM »
After much faffing about I have a drip tray that is starting to look half reasonable.  Still some more welding on the back side of it and then a good amount of cleanup needed but things are starting to look promising I think.

James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #10 on: February 06, 2017, 06:54:36 AM »
Its finally done with great help from Bruce today dealing with the install and the fact I managed to screw up some measurements.   In my defence I did follow my plans to the letter and about 4 versions back it was all correct, however at some point I rejigged the central support dimensions and didn't also compensate the hole locations. The lesson being, doing changes late at night is "Bad"  :facepalm:

Fortunately Bruce talked me through the options    :slap:

Net effect is mill is installed an now I need to get it all cleaned up and start using it.    First order of business thought will be to make a new drawbar with an M12 thread instead of this odd 1/2" Whitworth that is on the stock bar.

James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Steamer5

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2017, 07:32:27 AM »
Hi James,
 Looks good, just need swarf & tools all over it!

Don't loose that drawbar! I've got to make one to fit some tooling I brought from overseas My mill came with a 12mm, which was ok depending on were you get the tooling. Go somewhere else and it's 1/2", you can get both here!

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Offline bruedney

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2017, 07:35:05 AM »
Why haven't you got it cleaned and the draw bar done  :stickpoke:

You have had most of the afternoon  :Doh:

 :mischief:

Bruce
‘Results! Why man, I have gotten a lot of results. I know several thousand things that won’t work.’ — Thomas Alva Edison

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #13 on: February 06, 2017, 07:52:32 AM »
Why haven't you got it cleaned and the draw bar done  :stickpoke:

You have had most of the afternoon  :Doh:

 :mischief:

Bruce

It's mostly been cleaned this arvo. In fact the garage stinks of white spirits.   :insane:
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #14 on: February 06, 2017, 08:01:46 AM »
This is the drawbar I need to make.   I'm trying to decide if I do it from a single piece or if I combine some 12mm bar with a section reduced to the 17mm and bored for a close 12mm fit with some strong loctite or brazed.

My luck with turning between centres hasn't been good.   :noidea:  But that might be a factor of the crap metal I was playing with.

J.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2017, 08:05:56 AM »
And a finished drawbar, again thanks to the finishing touch by Bruce.

[1] Blanks cut out from my pristine stock of 1215 steel
[2] The M12 thread is cut on the lathe and 17mm round is drilled and reamed to 12mm and all ready to start assembly
[3] Test fit looks good.
[4] finally all together and the square end cut on Bruce's Luxcut. Original bar in the background.
[5] A closer look at the thread.  I'm a little bit proud of this one as it's a very clean fit in the M12 ER32 collect chuck and let's face it, I'm an absolute newbie at lathe work.
[6] The first bit of work using the new bar. The virgin cut as it were.   :popcorn:
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 08:13:24 AM by Joco »
James
Wellington - NZ

Online Jo

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #16 on: February 15, 2017, 08:32:56 AM »
That looks the business  :) I wonder why they supplied the original with a Whit thread  :noidea:

So what's next to be made for it? A few tools? Tee nuts.... clamps...

Jo
Usus est optimum magister

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #17 on: February 15, 2017, 08:58:24 AM »
That looks the business  :) I wonder why they supplied the original with a Whit thread  :noidea:

So what's next to be made for it? A few tools? Tee nuts.... clamps...

Jo

The whit thread is a feeble attempt to lock people into buying the rest of the tooling from that supplier of the mill.  So now I'm all good for the cheaper M12 tooling.

I've ordered a clamping kit, it just sooo much cheaper/quicker to get going.  But I am going to get some bar stock to allow me to make more t-nuts to support broader clamping options.

I have a plan to make some tool maker clamps as well as add-ons to the bench grinder plus some stuff around dial-indicators.  :-)     The machine shop journey is really starting now.  Lathe and mill - soo much fun to be had.

Cheers,
j.
James
Wellington - NZ

Offline Joco

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Re: BF20L Mill Stand
« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2017, 08:56:16 PM »
Time to progress the stand a bit further and come up with a way to prevent chips being flung far and wide around the garage.  I remember seeing someone from somewhere making a curtain arrangement around their mill using heavy clear plastic.   I kind of liked that idea so I have source a good supply of 0.5mm clear plastic sheet. Which seems to be a reasonable balance between flexibility and toughness.  Then it was on to Fusion 360 for some design playing.  So here is the concept model.   The material will be 19mm square tubing with a 2-3mm wall.   The risers are planned to be 1000m above the table top.  with the stand this keeps the top "halo" well above my head height.  The two side haves will be a welded shape (I don't have any bending tooling) with the triangle gussets and back cross bar bolted together wth M6 bolts. The risers will be bolted to the base frame with twin M6 bolts on each side.

Cheers,
James.
James
Wellington - NZ