CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO

[crueby]

Congratulations!!   

[Kim]

Congratulations, Rich! That is quite a milestone!  You must be happy to have that done 

I have to say, you guys have very uncomfortable looking benches there...
Kim

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Chris and Kim

A question my learned friends. I have to quarter the wheels. there is nothing in the article which explains how to do this but I have looked it up and think I know how to do it.

the wheels and cranks are separate and are glued to the axles. Is this the right way for wheel and crank. The driving wheels have the balance weight so assume the crank pin is opposite the weight

Cheers

Rich

[NickG]

Hi Rich, reversing lever looks good, would never have thought of forging the handle!!

You have the right idea with the crank pins opposite the balancing weights (see attached), but that isn’t quartering the wheels. Quartering is getting the crank pins 90 degrees apart from one side of axle to other. Some people do this in the large between centres or I think on a surface plate have two blocks with holes to accept crank pins drilled at the correct heights. Some sort of jig like that anyway. Something to hold in place at 90 degrees while loctite sets before pinning the ends, if that’s your chosen method.




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[Firebird]

Hi Nick

Thanks for the confirmation. Yes the wheels and cranks will be loctited on. I will make a jig to quarter the wheels. Some people say loctite alone is strong enough to hold the wheels and cranks, others say pin after the loctite has set to make doubly sure.
Any thoughts on that??

Cheers

Rich

[NickG]

Pin / no pin is An interesting one. Was just thinking, what is the force going through it? Not a lot - you aren’t trying to rotate the wheel off the axle in this case as the drive is on the wheel itself, so there’s every chance loctite would work on it’s own.

Guess that’s totally different with inside cylinders and a crankshaft.

I can’t see any pins in mine, you never know it could be a press fit, but then
That’d be more difficult to get quartered.


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[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Nick

I have just searched through the article and found this

Lotite it is then

Cheers

Rich

[Firebird]

Hi

A bit of jig making in the form of a lift. When the boiler is fitted into the frames it will be too heavy to safely man handle it about the bench, turn it over etc

Cheers

Rich

[crueby]

Oh, I like the the lift! I want one for my steam shovel model!

[Firebird]

Thanks Chris

Its mostly aluminium out the scrap box. It clamps to the rails each end so the loco will drop down back onto the rails. The handles were salvaged from a cheapo workmate type bench. By slackening one nut each end the loco will rotate through 360°

Cheers

Rich

[crueby]

Thanks Chris

Its mostly aluminium out the scrap box. It clamps to the rails each end so the loco will drop down back onto the rails. The handles were salvaged from a cheapo workmate type bench. By slackening one nut each end the loco will rotate through 360°

Cheers

Rich

Slick. I've seen it done for working on car bodies, never thought of doing it for a model. Hmmm... wheres that old workmate...

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Rotisserie loco mount: I love it 

Cletus

[Kim]

Yes, that way it can cook evenly on all sides!
Kim

[NickG]

Looks great Rich, I will need one of those, essential for maintenance. I bought a 5” Ajax off eBay, just in the process of stripping the boiler out for hydraulic test. Passed the first one and I am putting all fittings on to test again before building back into frames ready for steam test. Can’t wait to get it running!


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[Craig DeShong]

Regarding quartering the wheels; I was encouraged to broach the key way in the drivers, then make a fixture of square steel with a stub axle and key pressed into a center hole.  After centering this fixture in the mill an x offset located the crankpins for one side while a y offset located the crankpins for the other.  This worked great for me.