CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO

[Firebird]

Hi

Heres the insulation as purchased, its 2mm thick

I am going to use 2 layers, ie 4mm thick. For the boiler barrel I needed to cut a piece from each sheet. Then wrapped with adhesive heat proof aluminium tape.

The boiler barrel on this loco is 14 inches long. I have borrowed my mate Julians rolls which are 12 inch so I am going to wrap the boiler barrel in 2 sections, the first being 10 inches.

I first made a template from cardboard (sorry no photos) then used that to mark out some brass sheet

A hole saw to drill the large hole for the dome

Then in the rolls

A trial fit

Like wise the front section was made

 4 lengths of Brass banding cut to length. 8 pieces of 3/8 x 3/8 brass angle cut and drilled. 4 pieces drilled 2.5mm and 4 pieces drilled and tapped M2.5. Its useful to rig up a length stop in the vise when making multiple parts. the brass angles are silver soldered to the ends of the banding

After a quick polish

The forward/reverse lever reac rod has been modified. It slopes up at an angle (see earlier picture) which is ok if a saddle tank is fitted but I am going with side tanks so it gets in the way. A piece of brass is drilled and tapped and fitted to the reach rod to drop it down by 4cms.

While I was at it I have replaced the spacer with a bit of steel angle which will give support to the running board

You can see the reach rod now sits almost parallel

Cheers

Rich

[cnr6400]

Looking good Rich! 

[Kim]

That's a lot of progress, Rich!

Pass the popcorn Cnr

Kim

[Steamer5]

Hi Richie,
 A lot of work & looking good!
You won’t to be careful posting all those pictures of brass! Don will getting twitches to polish something!

A quick question, what is & were did you get your insulation from please?

Cheers Kerrin

[Firebird]

Hi
 
Thanks cnr6400, Kerrin and Kim 

I pick up the insulation at model engineering shows, its not something you see regularly.

A search on google tells me its Kayowool Ceramic Fibre Insulation material

https://www.camdenmin.co.uk/collections/kayowool-ceramic-fibre-insulation-material

Cheers

Rich

[Steamer5]

Hi Richie,
 Thanks for the info!

Cheers Kerrin

[J.L.]

Hi Rich,

I am in awe of this thread and the work involved in bringing you to this point. I appreiate the amount of time required to construct each part you have fashioned by hand.

You are a master at this craft of model engineering. Here I am assembling parts that have been die cast and enjoying every minute of learning about the engineering involved.

You on the other hand are making them!

Outstanding work.

John

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks John, praise indeed.

I'm following along in the background on your build, impressive model

Time to get the running boards made and fitted. They are around 26" long and 2" wide so a decent sized bit of sheet is needed. Looking through my stock the only thing I could find was a bit of stainless steel sheet which was big enough to yield the 2 running boards. The down side though is stainless steel is difficult to work.

The stainless steel sheet is 1.5mm thick, so to cut it down to size I clamped it between 2 pieces of angle iron in the vise and cut it with a thin steel cutting blade in my angle grinder

At 26" long it is beyond the travel of my milling machine so I had to stop half way and shift it along. Keeping the cutter speed quite low the edge machined ok. I used a 12mm carbide cutter.

The left hand running board needs to have a bit machined out to clear the forward/reverse lever. I changed to a 6mm carbide cutter for this

Pieces of 1/2" x 1/2" brass angle to support the running board. I have used the holes that were intended for the spring hangers

A piece of 1/4" x 1/4" brass angle to finish the edge. Drilled and tapped M2.5. On final assembly I will change the socket head screws for button head screws

Made a start on the right hand running board

Cheers

Rich

[Kim]

Wow, the running boards add a lot to the look!
And it's amazing how much work those seemingly simple items actually take!  But it's sure looking good 
Kim

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Kim 

I have started to mock up the cab and right hand side tank.

For the cab I have printed out actual size from the plans (had to do it on 2 sheets of paper and join down the middle)

Then spray glue to a bit of scrap hardboard

Likewise the 2 cab sides have been printed out and glued to card board

The cutout for the boiler needs to be enlarged. As shown its only 4" the size of the boiler tube and doesn't allow for the cladding

A cardboard side tank

Cheers

Rich

[Firebird]

Hi

I have made a start on the right hand side tank. Normally brass sheet would be used but I don't have any, but what I have got is a sheet of copper, 18gauge (.050"). Its of no use for boiler making, too thin so side tanks it is.

I used a nibbler to cut out a rough piece then trimmed with tin snips

Finished by filing clamped between 2 pieces of angle iron

Then in the folder

A piece of scrap copper has a hole drilled with a hole saw to check what size it turns out to be

Some brass tube turned to size

Drill the hole in the tank

Make 2 blind bushes

Drill 2 holes in the bottom plate

Silver solder the bushes in

Silver solder the bottom plate into the tank

2 holes will be drilled in the running board and the tank bolted in place

Cheers

Rich

[cnr6400]

Looks great Rich! Tanks for posting! (sorry for bad pun) 

[Kim]

Very nice!  copper seems expensive to use when not required, but I guess if you already have it, it's cheaper than something else, eh?

So, is there only a tank on one side?  Does that make the engine run lopsided? 

Kim

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks cnr6400, nice pun 

Hi Kim. The copper sheet I acquired/gained/found years ago. It is a nice sheet but has little use in our hobby, too thin so side tanks it is. Yes there are 2 tanks, one each side. I started with the right side because its a straight forward tank. The left side will be more difficult/challenging. Although its the same size it has to have a cut out on the inside to give clearance to the reach rod

Cheers

Rich

[Admiral_dk]

Considering how much work you have put into this model already - it's almost funny how the last few items added makes look so much more like a locomotive 

Great work Rich