CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Bill 

Pleased yes but getting frustrated that it won't run nicely or in reverse 

After many attempts  I figured it was time to get serious 

So strip it again but this time use a DTI to precisely get TDC

Now do the valve setting (made easier with the grub screw access holes in the caps)

I made sure that I kept some pressure on the valves in the direction of movement to eliminate any play. Double check everything is bang on.

                                                    Hallelujah

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwyUXyTAjg" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwyUXyTAjg</a>

Transferred to the rolling road

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAbcMBQbGNM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAbcMBQbGNM</a>

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0d4OVkcirS8" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0d4OVkcirS8</a>

I think that the problem is the scale in which we are working. There is so little room for error

Cheers

Rich

[crueby]

Yes!   

The timing is always a battle, then eventually you find that last tensy fraction of a degree change and off it goes. Congratulations!!

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Chris 

It's been a challenge   

Got the axle pump connected

It's not shown on the plans but the eccentrics do have a little boss which I drilled and tapped 3/16 x 40 with a small hole right through. I have made 5 oil cups from 1/4" stainless hex. Hopefully when the boiler etc is all on I can aim an oil can at them

Nice to get back to making things

Cheers

Rich

[Kim]

Great work Rich! Both forward and backward working. That is a huge accomplishment! 
Looking forward to watching the rest of it take shape 

Kim

[Admiral_dk]

I seem to remember my father (a Railroad man) telling me that a lot of full size Locomotives did not do very well backwards or where only approved to run very slowly backwards for safety reasons - some it was brakes, others wheels or boogies, but it applied to most big steams locos with separate tenders among the rolling stock of DSB (De Danske Statsbaner - The Danish [National] Railroad). Some could simply not run very fast backwards, even if you tried.

Almost all the Tender Locos were allowed to run backwards at the same speed as forward - but it probably depended on what coaches were on the hook and how many.

Nice result so far with your build 

[g0rph]

HI Rich,

....Hopefully when the boiler etc is all on I can aim an oil can at them.....

It is easy enough to get to all the valvegear for lubrication when the boiler is on (if you have the saddle tank).   It does need a longish oilcan spout though.

I think you told me before that you were thinking of side tanks?   That may make it rather more difficult?

The eccentrics tend to throw their oil out of the pram (!) though, so those cups may prove more decorative than useful!

Pleased to see her running both ways now.

Regards,  Richard.

[cnr6400]

Hi Rich, Congratulations on achieving running both directions! Well done. 

As to your oiling cups, they too look great. However I think you have overlooked the most simple and reliable oiling method for ALL points on the chassis.

Just make a tin 5 sided tray, soldered sealed seams, with the top edge flush with the drivers, and dimensions to fit under the rolling road. Fill tray with oil, lower rolling road into tray to tops of wheels, with engine running. Watch locomotive chassis wallow like a happy pig for a few minutes. Stop engine, raise locomotive, allow to drip dry over tray.....

Well maybe not - but that method would get oil EVERYWHERE....

(Rumour has it that the water pick-up troughs and scoops on some GWR engines, to pick up water at speed, started out originally as oiling troughs as above, were invented by a Mr. B.P. Fina-Shell - but I can't back it up with any historical data).

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Kim, Admiral_dk, Richard and cnr6400 

The oil bath idea would defintely lubricate things but it might also re decorate my workshop 

I am thinking of side tanks instead of the saddle tank, I prefer the look.

I remember seeing somewhere someone had fitted a small tank and drip feed via small plastic tubes??

Cheers

Rich

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello Rich,

Really enjoying this build.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Thomas 

Now that the loco runs I can get back onto assembly.

Replace all the nuts on the suspension with nylocs. The springs I have used seem to be about right at the moment but as the weight increases they may have to be changed

Todays task was to fit the brake gear, most of which I have already made   
(see earlier posts). It was just a matter of tweaking to get it all to fit.

Firstly pin the lever to the shaft

Set up to drill for the 2 inside brake levers

I have decided to use M2.5 bolts for the 2 internal levers instead of the specified pins, in case I have to dismantle bolts are easier

The rods are threaded M4. With a bit of patience it is possible to screw a nyloc on backwards

A few shots of the completed brake gear and linkages.

Finally today the new and modified rear safety stretcher

A bit of video

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKKvWWtdYhg" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKKvWWtdYhg</a>

Cheers

Rich

[crueby]

Nice action on the brakes, watching along!
 

[sco]

Yeah braking system looks the business!  Still following along,

Simon.

[Kim]

The brakes operate nicely!

So are your brakes just steel on cast iron (assuming the wheels were cast?)?  Or is it some other material for the break pads?
Kim

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Chris, Simon and Kim 

The wheels are steel and so are the brake shoes. They are not designed to be used to stop the loco but simply to stop it rolling or moving away.

Cheers

Rich

[Kim]

Thanks Rich,
That's interesting!  I didn't know they weren't for stopping.  I learn something everyday on this forum!
Kim