CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO

[qreidford]

Hi rich,

Try this site for an index for ME articles.
http://www.itech.net.au/modelengineer/

BTW I believe that we are members of the same club here in Leicester, hope to bump into you sometime.

Sorry, this isn’t the link I meant although I guess it works ok but I think these are the raw excel files which I have used in the past
 
http://www.groundlevel.demon.co.uk/me_index.html

Cheers
Q (Stirling single)


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[Firebird]

hi

Thanks Q 

Found it

1953 volume 109

Cheers

Rich

[Firebird]

Hi

Turned it round and started to assemble the other side

Lots more fettling

Cheers

Rich

[cnr6400]

It's looking great Rich, well done!

[Kim]

Its coming together nicely, Rich!

So, are you finding your fancy holder a worthwhile item?  Is it worth the effort to build that rather complicated holder?

Thanks,
Kim

[NickG]

My Ajax has that type of fire hole door as does our club loco. I have to say it’s far easier to open and close with the top of shovel. Don’t make the mechanism tight though. Looking great.


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[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks cnr6400, Kim and Nick 

The fancy holder  Kim is an absolute must for loco building in my opinion.

Bear in mind that once this loco nears completion it will be in excess of 30 kilo's so lifting it will be a struggle let alone turning it over. Just turning it round would be a challenge.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDFspHpmyxM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDFspHpmyxM</a>

Cheeers

Rich

[Firebird]

hi

The piston rods have been cut to their correct length. Initially I loctited them into the cross heads then when the loctite had set drilled and pinned them

Cheers

Rich

[Jakdaw43]

Hi Rich,
Now that you cross pinned the  piston rod into the crosshead I suggest you break the bond of the Loctite so that any future maintenance etc. can be performed.
Excellent workmanship and detailed reports.

PS.  A friend is building a Kerr Stuart Wren in 7 1/4" and has built a simple turning/raising jig like your's with M12 studding; it works perfectly and saves a lot of mauling.
Cheers,
Stuart

[Roger B]

Still following along in the background     That was a good fix for the connecting rod bushes  A good stand or fixture is always good. Most of the top performance car engine builders use them as well.

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Stuart and Roger 

I have come across a bit of a problem  Had I known earlier I would have made some modifications

The axle pump bolts onto the stretcher and is very close to the axle, but you can't get it in or remove it with the axle in position.

Here's a bit of video to show the problem

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRbb3IdKEpk" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRbb3IdKEpk</a>

I managed to get the screw out ( the screw is the ball lift limiter) but it is right in line with the axle and would be almost impossible to get back in.

The axle was removed to get the pump out and the screw has been replaced with a countersunk screw which now gives pump to axle clearance of about 1/8"

The other option to remove the pump would be to remove the stretcher. Ok if you have used bolts to fit the stretcher to the frames like I have but if its riveted in then it would not be an option.

If anyone out there is thinking of building this loco then I would reccomend a modification to either the pump or the stretcher to make removal easier.

The pin to fix the eccentric rod to the pump I have made from an M4 socket head screw with a shank. Run a die down to leave enough plain shank

Then cut off to the required length and fit a self locking nut

Cheers

Rich

[Admiral_dk]

Nice progress and commiserations with the snag ....

I know it's a little late for you, but does the pump have to be centred on the beam  - what about a "u-hole" up from the bottom, so the pump slides up into position ?

[Jakdaw43]

Hi Rich,
Re: The pump problem'
Whilst I have a great respect for the work of Martin Evans, he's done a bit of a howler here  with the the mounting of the pump.   
Don Young on his 5"G 'Alice' class Hunslets takes the drive from the same axle, but mounts the pump with a back flange of bolts on the eccentric drive side.  ie. the pump faces the eccentric and is (relatively easy to dismount if required.
I think the open slot up from the bottom of the stretcher is a good solution, however, I would be tempted to fit a closer strap across the bottom (like on the horns) to put back some of the stretcher strength.
Cheers
 Stuart

[Firebird]

Hi

Thanks Admiral and stuart 

The open slot idea looks good.

The stretcher was fitted into the frames then I did the paint job so I am reluctant to take it out at the moment. Come the point the axle pump needs maintenance I will remove the stretcher and do some mods.

cheers

Rich

[ddmckee54]

Rich:

I agree, if it ain't broke, then don't fix it.

BUT, and there's always a big BUT, short of ripping everything apart is there anything that can be done now while you still have easy access that will make it easier on you when the time comes that you DO have to fix it?

It might be easier to bite the bullet and fix it now while it's still a relatively bare frame, rather than to have to disassemble a complete locomotive.

Don