Benson's Vertical Steam Engine

[J.L.]

Thanks Bill. Fiddly is good. 

In making the operating lever for the governor, I’ve decided to attempt making it as it could very well could have be made in the 1800's. I  see a blacksmith picking up a square bar of iron with his tongs and thrusting it into his forge. After it is red hot he brings it to his anvil and hammers one end until it is flat enough to profile a fork. The rest of the bar may have been reduced in size to lighten it up or improve its appearance, but two sections would have been left square;  one for a pivot cross hole and one for a shackle hole at the end. He would then hand it over to the fillers and fitters to profile and finish.

I guess if equipment was available, the part could have been  drop forged. Or, the bar could have been placed between centres on the engine lathe and turned round with the exception of the sections for the cross holes.

The Stuart design comes to mind. These parts are far too thick and heavy for our Benson, but the principle of making them works for me.

[J.L.]

The fork end of the lever begins with the cavity and the two hardened grubscrews.
Imagine what a machinist of 1890 would have thought if you told him that in the future, a hexagonal hole could be driven into the end of a piece of metal and turned with a wrench. 

Here it let's us adjust the amount the 'pins' protrude into the cavity. Loctite will seal the deal later.

[kvom]

What size screws are you using for the pins?  I was planning to just use 1/16" rod loctited in and then ground to fit the pivot slot.

[J.L.]

Hi Kirk,
#0-80 socket headed grubscrews will be used. Hopefully, that will let them run nicely in the 1/16" slot in the lower pivot block.

The making of a fork...
(I'm finding that the two holes near the shoulder are making the shaping much easier.)

[J.L.]

Both sides of the lever have been brought to size. Now to shape the shoulders...

[J.L.]

The governor's rocker arm is complete and installed. I am quite pleased with the almost friction-free rotation of the lower pivot block and the moment around the fulcrum.

It's off now to work on the pedestal. We need stairs to get up onto the platform and I would like to work up an oil pan for the engine's exhaust. 

P.S. That grub screw on the governor's spindle is too long...

[J.L.]

Some time was spent on the other site building a brass stair up onto the engine deck.

You will notice that a pipe extends straight out from the intake valve on the cylinder. This will have to be changed. When a workman stepped up onto the deck, the pipe would prevent him from walking to the pump at the other end of the engine's base. I think a street elbow will be used to turn the pipe downward so that he can step over the pipe.

Also, he would not be up that high - about a foot. But if he was concentrating on service work and stepped back, he could loose his balance and fall backward off the deck. A railing will be installed, but it would probably have been rather a utilitarian, painted iron railing. I don't think the owners would have been interested in installing a brass railing with brass stanchions and cast fittings here.

[kvom]

The steps could be on the other side for pump access.  No OSHA requirements in 1862 and probably no railing either. The piping would depend on wherever the boiler was located.  I think you're free to arrange it anyway you like.

[J.L.]

You are right. I don't think safety was a big issue for the owners. As things evolve, you will see where the boiler is located and how we are replicating its location with a nearby air quick disconnect. Piping is under the floor.

The stairs on our model could be located on the pump end of the platform, but that's where the water tank will be located. This way, the cylinder and valve glands are close to the stairs for servicing. There will also be a raised walkway at the back to access the oil cups and governor gears higher up.

Cheers...John
 

[J.L.]

The copper  oil pan...

[Roger B]

Following along in the background here as well  Excellent work as ever   

[J.L.]

Hi Roger,
Good to have you looking over my shoulder. 

There is always a bit of discussion as to the efficiency of governor's on scale models. For what it's worth I'm going ahead and assuming things will work just fine, but knowing that that is not always the case.

The throttle is being made here;

Photos 1 & 2: The throttle being held in place with a clamp.
Photo 3: The steam hole seen drilled straight through the throttle - the throttle body being used as a guide for the drill and ensuring hole location.
Photo 4: The throttle.
Photo 5: The throttle with its body.

[J.L.]

Working with this rotary valve made me think back to 'Victoria's' butterfly valve. It was much harder to make. The edges of the disk had to be cut at angles to touch the walls of the hole and close completely when horizontal.

You will note in the photos of the last post that the tang of the valve is round and threaded. In reality, I think it would probably have been a square tang to prevent rotation when bolted to its link.

Small point. Loctite may keep the link from rotating.

[J.L.]

The valve gland is turned from a piece of 3/16" brass and externally threaded 3/16 MTP. The tapered threads I find draw fittings in very nicely.

Packing may not be required.

[zeeprogrammer]

For what it's worth I'm going ahead and assuming things will work just fine, but knowing that that is not always the case.

Generally, a philosophy that works! 

Usually.