Flyboy Jim's PM Research #2

[Flyboy Jim]

If you have your mill bolted to a base board, you would need to unbolt it to get at the bolts that hold the column to the base, or at least have holes in the baseboard to get at them through. I don't see how it would help with height limits, could allow wider parts though.

The mill would have to be unbolted from the base anyway, since it gets bolted to the Horizontal Milling conversion base. Actually looking at it, it could become the new mill base.

I've tried to find some examples of where it's been used. The only one I've found, so far, is in the companion DVD I got for my PMR #2 and it's a really poor video. I obviously did that operation in a different way. I guess lack of examples might be an indication of how much a person would actually use it. 

That said...........it's tempting to get one to try it out! Might end up being surprised at just how useful it is.   

Jim

[Alan Haisley]

Jim,

http://sherline.com/Wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6100inst.pdf

is the instructions. From that, you would just use the horizontal conversion base as the mounting board. From the instructions, the mill can be either mounted in the normal vertical position or in one of two horizontal positions.

Alan

[Flyboy Jim]

Jim,

http://sherline.com/Wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6100inst.pdf

is the instructions. From that, you would just use the horizontal conversion base as the mounting board. From the instructions, the mill can be either mounted in the normal vertical position or in one of two horizontal positions.

Alan

Thanks Alan..........that's suspicions confirmed.

According to the instructions, there are actually 3 horizontal places to mount the mill column. Pretty versatile for sure.

Do you have one of these conversion kits? I'd love to see some pictures of one of them in action. Like I said earlier, the only place I've seen one used is in the companion DVD that I bought for my PMR #2 kit and the video quality is pretty poor.

Jim

[Alan Haisley]

It's on my list, Jim, but I don't have one yet.

[Flyboy Jim]

Got in a little shop time the last couple of days.

Started on the piston. Turned it to size and drilled for the connecting rod.



Drilled the counterbore for the nut and then used a boring tool to flatten the bottom.





Turned the groove for the piston rings. Wow...........my first piston rings..............well kinda "entry level" piston rings.............. since they're teflon! 



Parted off and done.



Turned the connecting rod to size and threaded the end of the piston rod for the nut that holds the piston on the connecting rod.



Test fit.



Two more parts done.



Jim

[b.lindsey]

Nice Jim. The Teflon piston rings actually work well in these models, especially running on just air. They keep the friction down too compared to other materials

Bill

[Flyboy Jim]

Got in a little shop time today and made the Connecting Rod End Block.

Milled the stock to size.



Used my edge finder to locate the hole position, spot drilled, drilled and reamed.





Turned the block on end and spot drilled, drilled, and threaded for the connecting rod.





Done. The last part to make is #10 as shown in this picture. Then it's "some assembly required"!



Jim

[crueby]

Looking great!

Did I miss where you made the Teflon rings? How was that done? Never tried them, interested to see how they work out.

 

[Flyboy Jim]

Looking great!

Did I miss where you made the Teflon rings? How was that done? Never tried them, interested to see how they work out.

 

They came with the kit Chris. Might be tricky to make the right size.

How did your pool night go?

Jim

[crueby]

Looking great!

Did I miss where you made the Teflon rings? How was that done? Never tried them, interested to see how they work out.

 

They came with the kit Chris. Might be tricky to make the right size.

How did your pool night go?

Jim

Great turnout at the pool, everything went well. My Alfa spent most of an hour and a half straight underwater, cruising perfectly. I am getting comfortable with flying it, first sub I've had with separate control of bow and stern dive planes. Lots of fun. Our next run is new years day, then a run over in Buffalo at a giant pool at the aquatic center there, at their winter fest day. Always a big turnout there.

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Boy Jim, you are making us old timers here look bad  . Nice work,  good documentation,  and great photos  . PS: the Teflon rings are a snap to make,  don't ask how I know 

Cletus

[Hans]

This is very valuable, Jim. Thank you for your detailed documentation.

How do you like the ER16 collet chuck/adapter? Is that the one sold for the Taig lathe?

~Hans

[Flyboy Jim]

This is very valuable, Jim. Thank you for your detailed documentation.

How do you like the ER16 collet chuck/adapter? Is that the one sold for the Taig lathe?

~Hans

Cletus, Thanks for the kudos.

Hans,

I love the ER16 chuck/adapter!

You're right it's the Taig lathe one. As it comes, it had a shoulder on the end that screws onto the spindle. It would only let the adapter screw on the Sherline spindle about 1 1/2 turns. My neighbor turned off that shoulder (about 1/8") on his large lathe and now it screws on 3 1/2 turns. I caught a really good buy on an 11 piece set of Royal ER16 collets on Amazon.  They range from 1/16" to 3/8" by 32nds.

For comparison the adapter and nut stick out 1/2" further than my Sherline 3 jaw chuck and 1/4" further that the 4 jaw.

Jim

[Hans]

Thanks, Jim.

That system is a significant cost savings of the number of WW collets that would be required to handle the same size range.

~Hans

[Tennessee Whiskey]

I just looked at the weather channel and it appears that you guys have a big dose of good "shop weather" headed your way. Y'all stay warm.

Cletus