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For the large diameter stock you need for the gyroscope, a cheap place to get it could be the Drop Zone section of the website at Yarde Metals. They sell offcuts of many metals from thier commercial sales, reasonable shipping too. Sizes available vary since it is offcuts, but I can usually find what I need. Not much thin diameter stuff.
Been there done that. I had the same problems with the cheap Chinese three jaw that came with my lathe. I started useing my four jaw but I hated reclocking the part in every time I had to adjust the part in the chuck. Eventually I found the joys of the collet chuck. It makes life so much easier for small diameter parts. You might want to look and see if they have one. If they don't have one and you are stuck with the four jaw, I recommend makeing a tool post DI holder. It makes things much easier. See this thread:http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5001.msg95436.html#msg95436Tony
High BrendonI'm a beginner myself so take what I say with a pinch of salt, but to turn the part you mention, I'd be inclined to turn and thread one end then remove it and put a piece of scrap in the chuck. Drill and tap a matching thread in the lathe and providing you don't remove the scrap from the chuck you should have a true running thread to hold your workpiece. If you support the piece with a centre and take small cuts you may be able to turn the non threaded end to size and maintain the concentricity. It should then just need drilling through.I can't say I've tried it but I think that's how I'd go about it and it may be worth a go Peter
Hi Brendon, would have sent a note earlier but for forum issues.... ... Most lathes have a tailstock that can be "set over" for taper turning, and that also allows the centering alignment to be checked, and tweaked back to correct if there is a discrepancy. ( Say, if someone has done some taper turning, but not restored the tailstock to centre position again with care ) The accuracy in the vertical axis does depend on the general wear of the lathe, not so much that can be done to sort that out....Cheers, Dave
(1) You need to put your location in "Personal Text" for it to appear. (2) One way to deal with small parts may be to use a drill chuck or a min-lathe chuck, possibly held in the four-jaw chuck. The smaller chuck may provide a better grip, and possibly better concentricity. And you can still dial the four-jaw in as needed.(3) You may also be able to make a set of soft jaws that grip evenly around a delicate thin-walled piece.(4) It may be possible to make a collet by boring a hole the size of the part, and then cut thin slits so that the lathe chuck can apply pressure evenly.(5) You might be able to insert a piece of stiff steel, perhaps a dowel, in the bore, and then chase the outside threads with no danger of bending or distorting the piece.You're doing a good job with these small pieces. Thanks for sharing your experiences - many of us are amateurs and can always learn more tricks and techniques.
Chuck a 1/2inch rodTurn down non-threaded side to 6mm (or should that be 1/4 of an inch, so I don't fight the lathe's native measurement system?)Turn down outside diameter by 10 thou, make it concentric and also to give smooth surface for dial indicator.Part offFlip the part, rechuck and re-centreTurn down to 7mm (fun working with Imperial Lathe and Metric thread die/taps!)Do threadDrill out entire part to 5mm (most nerve wracking step!)chuck up a piece of scrap rod, drill out to accept 7mm thread (I need the practice for tapping a thread anyway)turn down outermost diameter to 9mm, to remove tool marks
And also, the latest and last video in the Clickspring series had came out, so we all gathered around at CCHS and watched it
... I have found the set a bit over $100 from the red and blue warehouse very satisfactory and has lasted for years (many threads in all metals, only just starting to replace the sizes I use most).
Brendon, as taps and dies go, it's best that you buy best quality HSS, but rather than buying a full set, get the ones you are using, maybe a taper tap and plug tap, you don't need all three.Ian S C
Hi Brendon, good to see that you are back in action on the lathe after the break. As you have found, some aluminium swarf from turning can be difficult stuff, and it can be dangerous too, the long streamers of cuttings can bird-nest up around the tool and job: and of course the stuff is like cheese wire as far as fingers are concerned. A tool with a chip breaker ground in, or a carbide insert that has one already formed, can be helpful. But for safety, stop the lathe entirely when the swarf builds up, and clear it away from the work/tool bit area using pliers or some metal implement to yank it away. Dave
You have probably heard/read that you should always release the tension on a hacksaw when you have finished using it. If you don't the frame distorts resulting in a wandering cut.
Another way to lay out six holes on a flywheel is to take a piece of hex stock and turn a tenon to fit the central hole in the flywheel. Loctite or superglue it in place and use it as a locator in the mill vise to orient the wheel. After the holes are drilled, unglue the wheel with heat.