Chris' Build of a Lombard Hauler Engine

[Flyboy Jim]

Damn nice Dog, you just keep setting the scale bud and those bearing block are looking to cool. Those elfs are sure busy little fellows huh?
Still following some great craftsmanship Dog!


Don 

They sure are busy, I could sit and watch them make parts all day!   

I'm familiar with the concept of CNC, but now I'm starting to understand all about "CNE"...........aka "Crubey's Numerous Elves"! 

Jim

[zeeprogrammer]

I'm familiar with the concept of CNC, but now I'm starting to understand all about "CNE"...........aka "Crubey's Numerous Elves"! 

  

[90LX_Notch]

That is a good one Jim!

-Bob

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Do the elves have a open or union shop?

Eric

[crueby]

Do the elves have a open or union shop?

Eric

Santas Elves Local 3.14159
You Wish 4Em, We Makem!


 

[Tennessee Whiskey]

I bet the Christmas party is a hoot

Eric

[crueby]

I bet the Christmas party is a hoot

Eric

Some great videos, but a horrible mess to clean up the next day! You won't believe the mess reindeer make!

[crueby]

Some more done on the bearing blocks - started by mounting the blocks in the 4-jaw chuck to drill the shaft holes. I was about to use the mill to bore them, but decided to try the lathe, since I find it is quicker than messing with changing the settings on the boring head over and over. It turns out that the 4-jaw JUST had enough travel to hold the blocks without having to reverse the jaws. I marked the joint between the base and the cap blocks for where the center of the hole should be, and used the live center to check the position, it took some fiddling with the jaws to get it properly centered, but it held very solid.

Once positioned, drilled a starter hole first,

then came back and bored it out to 1/2" diameter:

And what looks like a two-piece cap in those photos is just the tool marks left by the end mill on top of the cap, that really is just a single wide cap.
Here are the blocks set in position on the rail:

Next up will be the bearings (bronze), and bolting the blocks down to the engine bed. It looks like I have the fit about right, wont know till the bearings are in if I need to shave off a little from the bottom of the blocks or shim them a hair to get the gears meshing well.

[Brian Rupnow]

Looks really good. I have learned the same lesson as you in regards to boring a hole. It is SO much quicker and easier in the lathe.

[zeeprogrammer]

Nice work Chris.

  Still following along.

For some reason.

[crueby]

Nice work Chris.

  Still following along.

For some reason.

[crueby]

Looks really good. I have learned the same lesson as you in regards to boring a hole. It is SO much quicker and easier in the lathe.

Good, so it wasn't just me!

Especially on the small mill, the vibration from the boring head, even at slow speeds, just seems like it would introduce non-roundness in the holes, and it is a tricky one to get exact hole sizes out of. The boring bar on the lathe just does a better job with this setup.

[Brian Rupnow]

Boring head on the mill doesn't make out of round holes, but the dial is very hard to see because it is so small, which makes it very easy to overshoot the bore you actually wanted.---Plus the fact that you have to shut the mill off after every pass to crank the cutting tool out a little bit more. It gets the job done, but it is way slower than the lathe.

[crueby]

That's good to know, thanks!


I know that I am a long way from done on this project, but thinking ahead to a project or three down the road, I have gotten hold of some plans for the Stanley 20hp engine, prints came today, it would make a wonderful scaled down model. Don't know what scale, need some time drooling near (not onto, hopefully) the plans. My version of casting fondling! The main body casting would be tough to make without castings, that will need some thought. Or make a wooden pattern and get it cast. Dunno.


Anyway, back to the Hauler!


Parts to make and months to go before I sleep. That line is for you Telefon movie fans... 

[crueby]

On to the bearings... turned the outside of a piece of bearing bronze with a parting tool to make the shallow recesses to fit the bearing block holes, two sections for the two bearings:

then drilled through just the first section (to leave the part strong enough for boring and parting off)

and then bored out to size to match the crankshaft, just through the first section:

and then parted the first one off, and repeated the drill/bore for the second bearing:

I laid out the mounting holes in the engine bed rails, and drilled and tapped them:

and test fit the bearing blocks:

along with the differential:

All fit nicely, once I shimmed it for the correct height - did not quite get the shaft height measurement in the bearing block correct, but a little shim stock later it meshes nicely. Right now, I am leaving the engine beds off the main rails - saves time putting them on/taking them off for every part.

So, with the bearing blocks done, I can move on to the eccentric cams, then move forward (literally) on the bed rails to the Stephenson linkage parts...