Chris' Build of a Lombard Hauler Engine

[crueby]

Again, Nut-en much to show but the work on the nuts...

Reducing the size of the hex bar stock - got lots of the next size up, and it goes very quick to mill off the back side in the vise, rotating one facet per pass.

After drilling and parting off, wound up with a big pile of 2-56 nut blanks, the dozen on the right are tapped, rest are in progress. Using the v-groove in a small vise to hold them for tapping.

[crueby]

Slight step back to make the steam inlet passages that I had forgotten. 

Used a center drill to start the holes at the slight angle to make them meet the middle of the inlet ports.

then drilled through to the ports, after measuring how deep to drill in case I did not feel the breakthrough (which I did, but better safe)

and used a small end mill to open up the passage into the end of the cylinder

Now, back to the cap and cover nuts and studs, got them about done:

A little filing on the ends of the studs to smooth off the burs, and should be ready to move on to the pistons...

[scc]

Love it

[Kim]

Looking good Chris.  I love the look of those cylinders with all the studs and nuts!
Kim

[crueby]

Thanks! The built-up cylinders came out better than I had hoped, just like the cast ones on the original look.

Been working on the pistons this afternoon, pics coming soon.
 

[crueby]

The pistons on this engine are steel with a viton o-ring seal, had great luck with them on the last few engines so sticking with them. I started out with some 5/8" 303 rod stock that was a close fit on the bore, and started out by polishing the bores with some Timesavers lapping compound mixed with oil to smooth out the last of the tool marks. After that was done, and washing out the bores, took a length of the rod and used a parting tool to cut in the grooves for the o-rings, making them just wide enough for them to fit in, and deep enough to give a nice sliding fit. Took several tries on the depth, taking off another thou at a time till I liked the fit. When dry they are a little sticky, but with some oil they slide better but still snug. Once the first slot was a good fit, used its measurements to make a second one farther in on the bar so I could get both pistons out at once. Drilled the center, and parted off.

The piston rods step down at the piston, and are threaded at the end for a nut on top of the piston. From what I've seen of the real one, they did the same (just a lot bigger!). Started out by carefully centering the bar stock in the 4-jaw (grips better than the 3-jaw for threading, and lets me get the centering better).

Turned the step on both ends (lower end goes into the crosshead) and threaded them both.

With the pistons test fit, went ahead and loctited the piston and nut in place.

Here are the cylinder assemblies so far, the pistons will move with hand pressure, and I can tell that the lower cap is centered right since there is no binding point - very happy!

Next up will be to make the paper gaskets and button up the cylinders, then start on the valve sliders/rods/glands. Good stopping point for the day!

[Steamer5]

Hi Chris,
 The cylinders are coming on, very nice work.......mind you we have come to expect no less.......the gnomes have been quite for a while, have they got something else they are playing with?

One question though, how come you didn't recess the nut in the top of the piston? Helps keep the swept volume down & allows the piston stroke to be more even.......well that's what I got told anyway.

Cheers Kerrin

[crueby]

Hi Chris,
 The cylinders are coming on, very nice work.......mind you we have come to expect no less.......the gnomes have been quite for a while, have they got something else they are playing with?

One question though, how come you didn't recess the nut in the top of the piston? Helps keep the swept volume down & allows the piston stroke to be more even.......well that's what I got told anyway.

Cheers Kerrin

Thought about recessing them, but the piston is thin, the nut is only 1/16 thick at most, would have had to make the recess big enough for a driver to fit, so I didn't think it would matter much on a low speed engine.

And the elves are busy getting ready for the summer boating season!

[Kim]

Great work on the Cylinders Chris.

You're planning to run this on actual steam, right?  Will the paper gaskets cut it?  Or do you need something more substantial to hold up under the temperature and moisture of steam? I'm wondering this form my own build...

Thanks,
Kim

[crueby]

Great work on the Cylinders Chris.

You're planning to run this on actual steam, right?  Will the paper gaskets cut it?  Or do you need something more substantial to hold up under the temperature and moisture of steam? I'm wondering this form my own build...

Thanks,
Kim

Yes, will have a working butane fired boiler, can also run on airfor indoor displays. I have a roll of a fiber paper gasket material, forget where I got it, McMaster? Amazon? It works well for cylinder seals, is a bit thicker and denser than brown paper, is meant for this kind of seal. Very similar to the stuff Stuart Turner put in kits, a little thicker.

[Kim]

OK, that makes sense.  I'm going to have to find me some of that fiber gasket paper!
Thanks Chris,
Kim

[crueby]

OK, that makes sense.  I'm going to have to find me some of that fiber gasket paper!
Thanks Chris,
Kim

Found the order, here is what I am using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXMA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/GASKET-MATERIAL-FIBER-1-64/dp/B0002KKI5K/ref=pd_sim_121_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002KKI5K&pd_rd_r=XWN0X58ADEA7XZKFECTF&pd_rd_w=R6UHn&pd_rd_wg=EGvsO&psc=1&refRID=XWN0X58ADEA7XZKFECTF

It is an automotive gasket material, seems to stand up to the heat and steam just fine.

[crueby]

Made up the cylinder gaskets this morning. Started each one by using the cover as a template and cutting through the bolt holes with a exacto knife tip, poking through and turning in each hole.

Then going around the inside of the opening, slicing off the inside material

putting on the cover

and going around the outside to trim that back

Likewise on the steam chests:

Also got a start on painting the engine parts. The rest of the frame was spray painted, but these parts have so many nooks and crannies in all directions that I just brushed the paint on. First coat on, going to need another to cover completely.

Interesting how the brushed on paint came up glossier than the sprayed on, its the same type automotive paint, rattle-can vs a quart can of the spray ready paint. Might need to blend in the frame to match better.

[Kim]

Thanks for the info Chris.
The brown truck is now headed this way!
Kim

[zeeprogrammer]

I've been busy but still trying to watch and 
Looking good.

Goes for all you other members too. I try and read as much as I can.