Rebuilding a small starter motor

[Doc]

Here is a video of one of the things I end up doing in the shop other than working on model engine stuff.

[youtube1]watch?v=3MKE328BRf4[/youtube1]

[PStechPaul]

Interesting, but would be better to edit out stuff like where you try to find the right size wrench. On the lathe, I think the speed is too fast, but it seems to work OK, so no harm, no foul. It may not be good to use emery cloth for cleaning up, as the grit is conductive.

http://www.usa-newpower.com/desktopdefault.aspx?portalid=1&panelid=10&tabindex=0&tabid=45

Also, I think it is safer to hold the cloth in your left hand under the piece, and your right hand over it. This keeps your left arm away from the spinning chuck. It's also perhaps better to run the lathe in reverse for such operations, as that would tend to pull your hand over the work, rather than possible pulling it under it and pinching it between the work and the ways.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/polishing-lathe-72943/

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/eis2.pdf

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-49314.html

A few more points and questions:

1. What is that angle piece attached to the tailstock with a hose clamp?

2. Did you just replace the one bushing?

3. Another way to hold the brushes back during assembly is a piece of tubing or a rolled-up piece of cardboard or similar material.

4. It would have been interesting to test the starter before disassembly.

5. Did you also clean up the inside of the stator (field)?

6. Could you have installed ball bearings in place of the bushings?

7. I think there are some contacts in the solenoid that apply full current to the series windings when it pulls in and engages the Bendix drive. Those should be checked for wear and damage, and repaired or replaced as needed. I had an Isuzu Trooper that would sometimes get hard to start, and I had to replace the contacts a couple of times, with a piece of copper. The hard part was getting to the starter mounting bolts - once out of the vehicle the repair was easy. 

8. It's a good idea to have a motor secured to the bench or a vise when testing it. If the armature should "catch" while running at full speed, the angular momentum could cause it to twist out of your hand and roll around, causing some mischief in the shop. 

[Doc]

Interesting, but would be better to edit out stuff like where you try to find the right size wrench. On the lathe, I think the speed is too fast, but it seems to work OK, so no harm, no foul. It may not be good to use emery cloth for cleaning up, as the grit is conductive.

Was checked for shorts after things were cleaned up.

http://www.usa-newpower.com/desktopdefault.aspx?portalid=1&panelid=10&tabindex=0&tabid=45

Also, I think it is safer to hold the cloth in your left hand under the piece, and your right hand over it. This keeps your left arm away from the spinning chuck. It's also perhaps better to run the lathe in reverse for such operations, as that would tend to pull your hand over the work, rather than possible pulling it under it and pinching it between the work and the ways.
That maybe but after 40 years it would be less safe to be working left handed for me. Believe me I am careful when polishing there was no chuck involved in this but still need to be aware of thing that can happen.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/polishing-lathe-72943/

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/eis2.pdf

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-49314.html

A few more points and questions:

1. What is that angle piece attached to the tailstock with a hose clamp?
It is just used for when I drill to a close depth I use a travel indicator against it.

2. Did you just replace the one bushing?
No both bushings were replaced the one was just a standard replacement as the armature shaft was not messed up.

3. Another way to hold the brushes back during assembly is a piece of tubing or a rolled-up piece of cardboard or similar material.

4. It would have been interesting to test the starter before disassembly.
I usually do

5. Did you also clean up the inside of the stator (field)?
Yes I did clean the field coils up and checked them for resistance to make sure they were not shorted out.

6. Could you have installed ball bearings in place of the bushings?
Could have put roller bearings in but that is not standard and not necessary sintered bronze bushings are standard.

7. I think there are some contacts in the solenoid that apply full current to the series windings when it pulls in and engages the Bendix drive. Those should be checked for wear and damage, and repaired or replaced as needed. I had an Isuzu Trooper that would sometimes get hard to start, and I had to replace the contacts a couple of times, with a piece of copper. The hard part was getting to the starter mounting bolts - once out of the vehicle the repair was easy. 
They were also checked and cleaned up

8. It's a good idea to have a motor secured to the bench or a vise when testing it. If the armature should "catch" while running at full speed, the angular momentum could cause it to twist out of your hand and roll around, causing some mischief in the shop. 
The larger starters yes you definitely want them secured as the torque is a lot more than this little starter.

 There was a lot more things done off camera that maybe I should have mentioned I wasn't going to record anything but then I had not worked on this style before so wanted to just document disassembly only. Then decided what the heck I'll post it so did record more. I just thought that those that were not familiar with a growler would take interest in it and the use of it.