Elmer's #43

[Flyboy Jim]

When I built the engine, I, like you, turned this part from the solid.  However, in retrospect, I think it would have been a lot easier to manufacture it as an assembly.  Solder a length of 1/8" rod into two chunks while the chunks are clamped to a flat surface.  Grasp each chunk by the outboard end and cut the pieces that will receive the holes to size, then part off the outboard ends.  Drill and ream holes.

Whenever I see some long connector that implies turning thin, long, whippy rods, I look for assembly methods.  I hate that kind of turning.

Anyway, just a thought for potential future builders.  You did a great job of turning it from the solid.  Be proud.

Thanks Marv,

Your earlier posts on other threads had me thinking about doing an assembly like you describe. So far I've resisted in order to learn just what my machines can do. Plus the Sherlines are particularly adept at doing this kind of work.

However that said, for comparison I am going to make a part one of these days soon using the method you describe which brings up a couple of questions:
Would you drill a 1/8" hole in the chunks in order to help hold the rod in place for soldering?
It sounds like the chunks are oversize and then milled to correct size?

Thanks,  Jim

[mklotz]

Would you drill a 1/8" hole in the chunks in order to help hold the rod in place for soldering?

Yes, absolutely.

It sounds like the chunks are oversize and then milled to correct size?

I would make the chunks longer than the finished product.  Those extra ends would then serve to hold each chunk in the vise in order to shape and drill the block.  Once that is done, the extra material is cut off and the saw edge finish milled by grasping the now complete end in the vise.

Remember, I'm not criticizing what you did.  Just pointing out an alternate approach.  Folks who have difficulty turning long thin sections, myself included, may want to take advantage of the fact that long thin rods, sized to the job are sold.

[Flyboy Jim]

Next up was the Connecting Rod. It was made just like the Eccentric Rod...................only differently! 

The first part started out somewhat the same, in that I chucked some 1/4" square in the 4 jaw (instead of hex in the 3 jaw) and turned it to the starting diameter of 1/8" and the correct length.




Then using a combination of left and right cutting tools I turned 2 steps down to 3/32" (note the terrific, clear picture of the swarf under the part I was trying to take a picture of).   



Then I moved the part to the mill and spot drilled and reamed for the Crank Pin.





Then zipped down to the other end and spot drilled and drilled for the 1/16" pin to the Piston Rod.



Next was milling both sides to 3/16" (the width of the end that hooks to the Crank Disc).



Back to the 4 jaw and parted off the end that connects to the Crank Disc.



Then it was back to the mill to mill the end, that connects to the Piston Rod, to the correct width.



Parted this end off.



A little filing and it's done. I had thought about filing some more and then decided to quit while ahead. As Kenny Rogers said in "The Gambler": "You gotta know when to hold em' and know when to fold em'! 



This was a challenging part for me, that took a couple of tries to figure the correct order to do things so I didn't work myself into a corner.

I think, now that I can hook up the piston to the crank, I'll get at least enough of the flywheel done so I can turn the Crankshaft round and round and start working on any binding.

Jim

[b.lindsey]

I like the steps on the connecting rod Jim. That is a nice little detail. As you say should be getting to some round and round motion pretty soon, always a milestone in any build.

Bill

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Nice work on the rod Jim. I like the use of both left and right turning tools  

Cletus

[Flyboy Jim]

Thanks for the compliments.

Tackled the flywheel.

Chucked some 1 7/8" 303 stainless in the 3 jaw. First time working with a large piece of 303.

Faced the end and trued up the outside surface.



Moved the chuck to the RT on the mill and tried trepanning with an end mill..........sort of worked.



Moved over to the lathe and finished up. I have a lot to learn about this "trepanning" business. In particular I need to take the time to learn how to grind my own special tools for the job.
 


I tried parting off the flywheel, which didn't work so good on the Sherline. I did get enough of a groove so I could use my "poor man's horizontal bandsaw" to cut the flywheel off.  Got it done though. I see a horizontal bandsaw is in my future! Oh well! 



Re-chucked, faced and trepanned the other side.





Spot drilled, drilled and reamed for the crankshaft.



Moved the chuck over to the RT mounted on my tilting Angle Table, set to 60 degrees and milled a flat in 2 places for the set screws to anchor the flywheel to the Crankshaft.



Spot drilled, drilled, and tapped for 4-40 set screws.







Drilled holes to dress things up a little. I was going to do 7 holes like Arnold did, but didn't like the idea of having to dial intervals of 51.4285714 degrees,  so went with 8 holes at 45 degree intervals. 



Finished. 



Jim

[Steamer5]

Hi Jim,
 That came out nice! If you can turn 303 stainless on the Sherline then that gives me hope I can do it too!

As to the bandsaw, get one you won't regret it! They just get on with the job while you do something else! Your version looks a little more portable!

Just been to my dads earlier, he's making some wedges on his shaper, another machine that just gets on with it! He did point out that standing in front of it with an open neck shirt isn't a good idea! One of these days it will come to my shop so I'm trying to pick up hints & tips on its use

Cheers Kerrin

[crueby]

Flywheel came out great!  I have been using a lot of 303 stainless on my sherline too, it cuts very nicely, much easier than some of the other alloys.

 

[b.lindsey]

Great result Jim. Time for another family shot soon 

Bill

[sshire]

Beautiful job on the flywheel!
I've been turning recesses on flywheels with a round insert tool. Makes it easy.
Agree on the bandsaw. One of the most used tools in the shop.

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Nice job on the flywheel.  I would have gone with 8 holes also,  I'm not instrument rated . Haul yo butt on down and get you a 4x6 band saw; dirt cheap and with a good blade,  they are arm savers.  Have a great day  Captain

Cletus

[Flyboy Jim]

Thanks guys.

Chris........your use of 303 stainless is what inspired me to give it a try. Seems to turn pretty nice.

Bill............your right about time for a family shot. Will try and get one this afternoon.

Stan.........Good to hear about the round insert tool. I've got one of those on my Shar's wishlist, so will get one with my next order. The cutting tool I used didn't work all that great.

I hear what folks are saying about getting a horizontal bandsaw. One would of certainly helped with this flywheel project. I have a nice 14" woodcutting bandsaw that works great for aluminum, but do need something for larger pieces of steel and brass. The Saz-all works fine for the smaller stuff.

Jim

[mklotz]

Find an old machinist and you may hear him muttering...

304 - she's a whore,
303 - she's for me.

[I collect mnemonic devices.  You'd love the one I made up to remember the countries of Central America.]

[crueby]

Find an old machinist and you may hear him muttering...

304 - she's a whore,
303 - she's for me.

[I collect mnemonic devices.  You'd love the one I made up to remember the countries of Central America.]

Oh, come on, tell! Tell!!!

Years ago we came up with a couple pages of what the initials A.D.O.B.E. meant while waiting for some software deliveries from them for weeks and weeks. And weeks. Most were just amusing, some quite rude.

Anyway, I have come to really like using 303, both on these engines and on the RC boats. I used 12L14 once for my Shay wheels, cut nice, but rusted so quickly that I had to clearcoat them.

[Flyboy Jim]

Find an old machinist and you may hear him muttering...

304 - she's a whore,
303 - she's for me.

[I collect mnemonic devices.  You'd love the one I made up to remember the countries of Central America.]

Just googled 303 vs 304 stainless ................. now I can see where that mnemonic comes from!

Then there was the saying that we used, when I was in college, to remember the color code for resisters. Starts out "Bad boys........." 

Jim