COLUMBINE - The Boat

[crueby]

The steam engine would still be relevant for the launch catapult!   

[Robert Hornby]

Thanks Crueby, great idea, I hadn't thought of a steam catapult. (maybe they weren't around on carriers in the late 17th century.)
Robert

[Robert Hornby]

OK the silliness put to bed (obviously fooled no one) the board is to allow the work on the side of the hull to be made much easier and the painting will need to be done with the boat in the capsized position.


I am fixing the rubbing strakes to the sides with 2 pack adhesive and will follow up with brass rivets. A length of rope will be glued to the top face of the strake but larger in diameter.



Robert

[scc]

Beautiful

[Robert Hornby]

Prior to painting I need to make all the holes and fit things to them so any adjustments can be made. I fitted the rudder shoe (the screws are temporary as I still have to countersink the holes and get slightly smaller headed screws).The slot is to allow the tiller to pass through the transom where it will be controlled by an actuator/servo.







Robert

[b.lindsey]

Very happy to see you back on this project Robert.

Bill

[Robert Hornby]

Thanks Bill, I was never really off it but had a few "gap weeks" during the rib making process. The rudder came together easier than I anticipated with some silver solder on each end on both sides then filled with JB Weld (I dressed the weld up some more after the photo was taken) Some primer on prior to paint. The gland nuts were straight forward, one outside and a second one inside. I only gave a .003" clearance on diameter on each of them and the prop shaft turns very nicely with no binding. I will be using graphited string for the packings.





Robert

[Robert Hornby]

Back to the power module base. I wanted the base to look like corked planking but the smallest slot drill I have is 1/16" and trialing on some scrap wood the corking gap was too wide. I sacrificed a 1mm twist drill Locktightening it into a brass rod and leaving only 3mm protruding. I flattened the end and it worked wonderfully. I only cut 0.35mm deep, enough for a filling of black paint.





After a couple of days to dry and harden I just sanded it all back and gave it a coat of clear Polyeurothane. I made the 8 brass 4BA inserts and glued them in with Araldite.

[Ian S C]

Your caulked deck looks good, the hull is coming along fine.
Ian S C

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Robert that is a great idea and it turned out beautiful.

Thomas

[b.lindsey]

Very nice Robert! That turned out beautifully.

Bill

[Robert Hornby]

Couldn't help trial fitting the boiler and engine to see hoe they look in their correct location and also to give the assembly a weight check, which came out to be 9kg. So I mhave around 2 kg left for the fitting out to achieve the correct water line.





The next job is to make the universal for the prop shaft. Also the longer brass rivets arrived so I can finish off the timber side strakes.
Robert

[b.lindsey]

Most impressive Robert. I always look forward to your updates on this project.

Bill

[Johno]

Robert, very very nice. Do you intend to fit a boiler feed pump, if so engine driven or independently driven?

Ian

[Robert Hornby]

Thanks Ian and Bill,
I will not be fitting a feed pump into the boat as I don't think I will be able to make one small enough that would do the job to look right within the hull. It is my intention to have a "shore mounted" hand operated pump for boiler filling duties. I calculate that commencing with a full boiler I will get around 10 minutes steaming time before I need to top up. It is my experience from my steam drag saw that observers like to see things happening to keep things interesting. Another aspect of bringing it along side is I can add some engine oil to the motor.
Robert