Hoglet (first IC engine)

[Kim]

Congratulations on a great runner Nick!  That's one more IC engine than I've ever built!
And I like your gas tank too. That's a lot of brass to turn into swarf!
Kim

[Dave Otto]

Congrats Nick!

Sounds very nice; I'm sure you will get it dialed in.


Dave

[Nick_G]

.
Thanks folks, 

Yes, it's getting there better each time I run it. Need to finish it off properly and tidy it up while it's still on the bench or it will never get done.

But what to build next. .......... Any Ideas anyone.? 

Nick

[Zephyrin]

Very nice result, neat work throughout the project, congratulations!
go slowly with the throttle lever, with such a large flywell you may break a gear or something else, what a pity...

[cfellows]

Congratulations, Nick.  Very nice engine.  Love the concept of the larger, external flywheel.  It really adds a lot, not only to the looks, but also to the nice, even note of the exhaust.

Ideas for the next engine?  How about a 3 cylinder version of the Bruce MacBeth engine.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5yUtb7baOk" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5yUtb7baOk</a>

Chuck

[gbritnell]

Nick,
First let me congratulate you on a great build and a nice running engine.
Here's a few bits of information that might help.
First, they all get hot. There's not much you can do about that.
If it's spitting  back through the intake it's not necessarily that the valves aren't sealing. It could be just the timing of the camshaft. It won't hurt to check the seal anyway.
I see you have an air bleed type carb. Here's how you go about adjusting it.
Start the engine and adjust the timing so the engine runs as smoothly and as fast as it will. Now back off a few degrees.
I noticed that the engine wouldn't respond when you tried to rev it up. The reason for this is because it's too lean at higher rpm. Bring the rpm's up and adjust the carb so that it will run as fast as it can, not wide open but say 3/4 throttle.
Now when you throttle it back to idle the engine will probably be too rich and get sluggish, possibly stall. This means that the air bleed needs to be open more. If you can, look inside the air bleed port and see where the adjustment screw is, if it's closed or half way closed open it up a little and restart the engine. Once you have the main needle valve adjusted for optimal running there's no need to adjust it any further. The remaining adjustments should be made with the air bleed screw for a clean idle.
If the air bleed screw is wide open and the engine is still rich at idle that means the air bleed port needs to be enlarged. Go one drill size at a time until you can get a good clean idle.
Once the fuel mixture and timing are right the engine will run a little cooler but not much. I would say you should be good for about 3-4 minutes of running time. It doesn't seem like much but that's quite awhile.
What will happen if it gets too hot is it will boil the fuel in the carb and then start pushing it back toward the tank (vapor lock) The engine will run good an then start running erratic, and then finally stall. It might restart and it might not. Feel the carb. If it's hot then that is what's happening.
gbritnell

[b.lindsey]

Nick, I just saw the video. It really looks and sounds great even now. I am sure it will sound even better once you get the issues sorted out. Beautiful job you have done on it though!!

Bill

[Brian Rupnow]

Very nice job!! Congratulations on your engine. Those large flywheels really help with these small engines, don't they.---Brian

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

I am new to this forum and just watched your video on youtube, beautiful work and really a great sounding engine.

[Nick_G]

.
Many thanks. 

However I have come to the conclusion I need to take one of the heads off again and relap the valves as one cylinder has more compression than the other.

Nick