Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 42929 times)

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #660 on: May 16, 2020, 05:54:52 AM »
Hi KIm,

This is a labour of love. You have put so much care and precision into your build. The careful, step-by-step photography also indicates the pride and enjoyment you are getting out of this amazing construction.  :praise2:

Thank you for the kind compliment John.  Your words mean a lot to me.

And I couldn't agree with Carl more!  This is true of many members of this site, especially you.  The care and detail you put into every step of your builds is inspiring.  Thanks for sharing your work with us!
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #661 on: May 17, 2020, 06:37:24 PM »
Chapter 7.3 – Handholds

The next item to make is the front handholds.  These are railings that go at the front of the tender to use when climbing the front steps.

These are also made from the 3/16” SS rod that I used for the stair railing.  I made a mistake in one of my previous posts.  I said Kozo called for 0.090” SS rod for the railing but its actually 0.100” rod he specifies.  However, I couldn’t source 0.100” rod either, so I went with 3/32” (0.093”) which is still pretty close.  1/8”  is the next closest, easily sourced size, and that’s off by 25 thou as opposed to 7 thou.

The first thing to make for the front handholds is the lower right-angle brackets.  I made these from 3/16” square 303 stainless.

I cut two little pieces, milled them to length, then cut a notch out to make them “L” shaped.


Then I flipped them around and drilled a 1/8” deep hole to attach the railing.


Then I silver soldered the right angle bracket to the end of the railing:


I got a little ahead of myself with the silver soldering – I’d intended to do the next two steps before the soldering but forgot.  So I’ll do it now. And it probably doesn’t make much difference, really.   I needed to drill the mounting hole in the bracket to attach it to the tender frame:


And I needed to round the top side of the bracket, which I did by filing:


Now, comes the challenging part – forming the curves in the railing.  This handhold has two bends in it – very tight radius of 1/4".  To do this, I cut a 3/32” wide grove, 3/64” deep, into a 1/2" diameter piece of steel.  Then used this as a form for the bending of the rail.  This shows the 1/2" form and the piece after the first bend.

Here’s a picture of the second bend being formed. I had to be extra careful with this step – one rail had to be ‘left handed’ and the other ‘right handed’.  The direction of this bend is what made the difference!


Here are the two hand rails after forming:


And now, after silver soldering on the top mounting bracket.


This brings us up to the state of play at the moment.  Only a few more steps to go for these front handholds.

Thanks for looking in!
Kim


Offline J.L.

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #662 on: May 17, 2020, 10:12:25 PM »
Kim,
This is superb sequential photography that make the process so easy to follow.

Kudos! :NotWorthy:

John

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #663 on: May 18, 2020, 05:19:56 AM »
Thank you John  :cheers:
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #664 on: May 23, 2020, 10:29:32 PM »
Finishing up the front handholds, I filed off the extra length of rail after silver soldering, then spent a good chunk of time cleaning up the handrails so they loop nice and shiny:


I drilled and tapped holes in the frame for the front handholds.


With them attached on the frame, I used the mounting plate itself as a template for the holes in the tank.


Then tapped the holes.


And attached the front handholds:


Now those two railings are done!
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #665 on: May 23, 2020, 10:32:06 PM »
The next handhold is the rear horizontal handhold – presumably for climbing on the tender from the back. :)

This requires more mounting plates similar to the previous ones, but these only have a single mounting hole.  Since these are smaller, I made them from 3/8” round 303 stainless.

Here I’ve cut the stainless rod down to width:


Then drilled the holes.  The bigger one (3/32”) for the rail and the smaller one (#48) for a #1-72 mounting screw.


Then slice a few off:


I only need 4 of them, but I made a few extras for the shop gnomes.


I’m making 2 of these horizontal handholds – one will be along the rear of the tender and the other will be set aside for use on the engine later.

This is where I called it a day and came in.

Thanks for taking a look,
Kim