Author Topic: RLE questions!  (Read 30152 times)

Offline Roger B

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #45 on: January 26, 2016, 07:37:39 PM »
I modified one of these Velleman kits to use a hall effect sensor with a 6V motorbike coil.

I can't get the instructions to attach (error 500), but the it was a K2543.
Best regards

Roger

Offline Jasonb

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #46 on: January 26, 2016, 07:51:26 PM »
I bought a set of the sprung contacts and made up a box



The coil is an "ATV" coil from ebay


Offline Roger B

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #47 on: January 26, 2016, 07:53:50 PM »
The missing link and the mods are halfway down this:

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,982.675.html
Best regards

Roger

Offline Manorfarmdenton

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #48 on: January 26, 2016, 07:59:40 PM »
Roger, thanks I'll Google them.

Jason, strewth that's a list.  That explains your expertise  :)

Graham, the capacitor suggestion is well worth a try.  Many thanks.  Re voltage, I'm running the air-cooled Red Wing on a 6v accumulator from Maplins and the water-cooled one on a 12v one.  The air-cooled one gets run most as it sits on a chest of drawers in our sitting room and gets demonstrated to anyone who is polite enough not to refuse to look!  I noticed yesterday when I started it that there were little sparks flying out from the pick-up pin and also from between the teeth of the timing gears - presumably because the current was earthing to the crankshaft!  I think the latter manifestation is a symptom of my having recently gone round it with an oilcan, preventing the current from earthing through the timing gear bearing?

Kind regards, John.
John Fearnley

Offline Alyn Foundry

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #49 on: January 26, 2016, 08:19:58 PM »
I bought a set of the sprung contacts and made up a box



The coil is an "ATV" coil from ebay



Hello Jason.

That's exactly the way we made them !!  Just used a scrap coil rather than a bought one. We had a few spares whilst we were perfecting the " Colt " engine as it was specifically designed around the Suffolk Colt lawnmower engine.

You can call me old fashioned, because I am but I still prefer the simple contact breaker and coil to any of these " new fangled " electronic systems. It's pure simplicity !!   :)

Kind regards, Graham.

Offline Manorfarmdenton

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #50 on: January 26, 2016, 08:35:49 PM »
Graham,  you can't be more old fashioned than me - my family pull my leg because I still call a radio a wireless...... :)

I just visited M/s Maplin and bought a couple of .1uF 400v capacitors for the princely sum of £1.18 plus postage.  I'll keep you posted.

Kind regards,
John.
John Fearnley

Offline Jo

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #51 on: January 26, 2016, 08:37:41 PM »
So what have I made

Stuart 10V
Stuart Beam
Anthony Mount Rectilinear - abandoned due to too many sand inclusions in the castings
Minnie 1" traction engine
That fabricated hit & miss I posted earlier based on the "06" design
2" Fowler A7 traction engine, still needs a bit of plumbing and painting.
1.5x Benson Vertical
Hoglet almost done
1/5th IHC Famous vertical screen cooled
1/2 scale Domestic Stovepipe
2x Easton and Anderson grasshopper beam
1/3rd scale Galloway 5hp with scratch built hand cart
Firefly 0.46cu.in glow engine
1/3rd scale Baker Ball hopper Monitor
2x Cameron Steam pump
Nemett NE15OT opposed twin 4 stroke based on Nemett cylinder/head design
1/2 scale Gade
Two 5cc glow & diesel engines
2/3rd scale Tidman organ engine from my own drawings
30% larger Jowitt popet valve engine (current project finished this weekend with luck)

:lolb: As I thought just a beginner...how many have you still got and not had to give back  :???:

Jo

P.S. I could find a home for that Orphaned Rectilinear  :naughty:

P.P.S. and 2X does not count as two engines good try  :LittleDevil:
« Last Edit: January 26, 2016, 08:46:27 PM by Jo »
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

Offline Jasonb

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #52 on: January 26, 2016, 08:45:48 PM »
4 re homed. Its the building that I enjoy so why not give someone else the job of dusting them.

I suspect my percentage of completed, painted AND working engines is far higher than yours though :LittleDevil:

Quote
P.P.S. and 2X does count as two engines good try

Good to know it does count as I thought it did not

Offline Manorfarmdenton

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #53 on: January 26, 2016, 09:16:06 PM »
Jason, you might be interested in this if you haven't already seen it.  Its my source vid for details of the Best, and through a friend in Canada the owner has taken me some detail close-ups of it.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgNkDxTRmRY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgNkDxTRmRY</a>

John.
John Fearnley

Offline Manorfarmdenton

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #54 on: February 01, 2016, 07:08:59 PM »
Sorry, no photos, but I've got the piston blank (a la Red Wing) sitting in the jig I made for the first Red Wing, in the machine vice on the mill.  That way I can slot drill the rectangular recess, then sit it sideways on a parallel to bore the wrist pin holes, rotate it 90 degrees to drill the little end oil hole, and sit it back in its original position to drill and tap the wrist pin grub screws.  I have also machined but not bored the flywheels.  The drawings that came with the kit showed 6 3/4" OD and the ones that Jason sent me say 6 7/16".  There's no way I could get 6.75" diameter from the castings supplied, so I have ended up at 6.6", assuming the bigger the better as far as running is concerned.  Although both of my Red Wings run happily with only one flywheel and no pulley......

A question - the Red Wing uses 4-40 x 1/8" grub screws to hold the wrist pin in position, and 8-32 x 1/4" ones in the flywheels.  Who supplies little ones like that please?  I can always buy Red Wing replacements from Forest Classics, but surely someone in the trade sells them?  I've looked at Reeves and several other model supplies firms but no joy.

Graham - the little 0.1 mfd capacitors arrived from Maplins today, so I'll see what happens.  Since the pick-up pin is connected to the battery negative presumably I can insert one anywhere between the negative terminal and ground?

John.


John Fearnley

Offline Jasonb

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #55 on: February 01, 2016, 07:27:33 PM »
I don't use the UNC/UNF threads on my engines but convert to BA or Metric. Attached is the conversion chart that I made up

If you want 4-40 and 8-32 UNC then Model Fixings do them

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/steel_grub_screws.htm
« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 07:32:43 PM by Jasonb »

Offline Alyn Foundry

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #56 on: February 01, 2016, 07:29:55 PM »
Hello John.

I'm not sure of those thread sizes, are you suggesting " 4-40 x 1/8" grub screws " two 40x1/8" either side of the piston? If you're not too worried I would suggest just one M4 grub screw, the screw is there just to stop the gudgeon pin from moving.

The capacitor just needs to be placed across the contact maker points, I'm hoping it will reduce the arcing for you.

Kind regards, Graham.

It seems our posts crossed!! Jason what does 4-40 and 8-32 mean? It's not something I have come across..... It seems you're never too old to learn !!   ;)
« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 07:33:36 PM by Alyn Foundry »

Offline Jasonb

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #57 on: February 01, 2016, 07:35:57 PM »
Graham, at sizes below 1/4" UNC and UNF use a number to denote the thread diameter ( think wood screw gauges) followed by the tpi so 4-40 is a 0.112" dia, 40tpi thread  and 8-32 is 0.164" dia and 32tpi

See the attached chart I have just added to my previous post
« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 07:39:50 PM by Jasonb »

Offline Jo

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #58 on: February 01, 2016, 07:42:29 PM »
Hi John,

I don't know which thread set you have been using on the remainder of the model. But please, please keep to one thread type don't mix them  :ShakeHead:

Jo
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

Offline Jasonb

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Re: RLE questions!
« Reply #59 on: February 01, 2016, 07:48:28 PM »
Thats almost impossible as you may need one thread form or more for fixings, one for pipework and one for the plug :ShakeHead:

I'll typically use BA for smaller fixings, BSF for 1/4" and larger fixings, ME for carbs and oilers, BSP for pipework and Metric if its a CM6 plug thread, UNEF if 1/4x32 plug
« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 07:53:51 PM by Jasonb »

 

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