Author Topic: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak  (Read 4546 times)

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« on: January 13, 2016, 02:18:38 AM »
This is an interesting wobbler design that I first got my attention when I first saw Tinglett's build back in 2014.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,4028.0.html

Because this engine is mostly steel and brass , I've been holding off until I had a good way to blue the steel pieces. Now that I have that process sorted it is time to give this engine a go.

Per my usual preference I started with the base. A piece of scrap aluminum was squared up and the top fly cut.



I ended up using this piece because it's thick enough to hide the screw heads. Next I rounded over the edges with a round over mill.



Then I flipped it over and drilled and counterbored the holes.



That completes the base. Next it's time to start the pillars. Two pieces of steel were cut from the same bar and superglued together. Then the combined piece was squared up.



Then the holes for the bearing were drilled and reamed.



Next the decorative arch was milled into the columns.



The parts were heated and separated. Then I laid out the design for the short column.



The piece was flipped over and the mounting holes were drilled and tapped.



Using my 45 degrees angle block I cut the corners off.



That wasn't the most rigid setup I've ever made so light cuts were the order of the day. I could only do .020 at a pass so it took forever. Then I milled the sides to width.



Next it was out with the angle block to remove the remaining waste stock.



After some cleanup with the files I ended up with this.



Till next time.

Tony
 
« Last Edit: March 23, 2016, 05:26:40 PM by AOG »

Offline Don1966

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6016
  • Morgan City, LA (Along the Gulf Coast)
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2016, 02:26:05 AM »
Cool Tony, that was my first engine build. Your certainly off to a great start. Very nice engine to make......... :drinking-41:


Don

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13758
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2016, 02:45:29 AM »
Off to a fine start Tony, on this classic design. Looking forward to following you progress.

Bill

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2016, 06:30:46 PM »
Let's pick up where we left off. I put the long column in the mill vise and milled it to length.



Next I drilled the passages for the inlet and exhaust fitting. After rereading Tinglett's build I decided to try the push type air fitting he used so I sized passages for a 10-32 fitting.



Then I drilled the port for the whistle full sized.



Next I drilled the main ports.



Then I drilled and reamed the hole for the pivot bearing.



I pulled the piece out of the vise and carried it over to the tapping fixture and the holes were tapped



The final shape of the was laid out.



I grabbed my angle block and milled off the top corners.



Then I milled the angled cuts.



The remaining waste stock was milled out.



I cleaned up the part with a file and here is the family shot.



Till next time

Tony

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13758
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2016, 06:53:15 PM »
More nice progress Tony. Looking forward to more as time permits!

Bill

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2016, 11:51:24 PM »
This weeks post should be subtitled RTFP you idiot. For those who don't know it means Read The Flipping Plans. More on that later. When I started my shop session my metal order for this build still hadn't arrived yet. It was time to see what I could do with what I had on hand. I checked my stocks and found a nice piece of 1/2 inch diameter brass bar that wold work for the shaft and pivot bearings. All three were made the same basic way. After facing off the end of the bar I turned the outer dimension.



Then the blank was parted off.



Rinse and repeat for the other bearings. After all the blanks were cut off I put them back into the collet chuck where they were faced, drilled and reamed.



After the bearings were done I figured I would start on the crank shaft.  I didn't have the drill rod for the main shaft but I figured I could start with the crank disk. The original plans have you turn a crank pin then drill and thread it for a retaining screw. Next your supposed to pean the crank pin into the crank disk. I'm not a fan of peaning  so I decided to change the design. The end of the con rod is brass so I decided that I would thread the crank disk for the retaining screw and turn up a shoulder bolt to fit the con rod. It was time to start the crank disk so I grabbed a pice of leftover 1 inch bar and faced it.



Then I drilled and reamed the hole for the shaft.



The shaft is supposed to be peaned as well but I will make it a press fit. Next I moved the part over to the mill and used my coax indicator to get it centered.



I dialed in my throw offset and I was right near the edge of the part. I checked the plans and realized I had misread the diameter of the crank disk. It should be 1.25 inches in diameter. No big deal I have a piece in stock so remade the part using the larger diameter bar. Then I drilled it tapping size for a 10-32.



One small problem. The plans call for a 6-32 thread. 10-32 is way to big. On to attempt number three. After getting the size right I parted off the piece and tapped the thread.



I will true up the crank disk and face off the other side after the shaft is pressed in. Since I was out of time I called it a weekend. Till next time.

Tony

Offline Don1966

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6016
  • Morgan City, LA (Along the Gulf Coast)
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2016, 12:12:32 AM »
You made some good progress since I checked last Tony. I made a few mistakes on this one myself when I built it. It happens to all of us. Nice work thought..... :ThumbsUp:

Don  :popcorn:

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2016, 04:25:59 PM »
I was unable to post last week so this one will include the last 2 weekends of work. Let's get started. I chucked up the cylinder blank into the three jaw. I rounded over the bottom and cut some decorative grooves.



Next I step drilled the bore large enough to take a boring bar.



Then I bored the cylinder enough undersized to ream.



Then the bore was reamed to final size.



Then the cylinder was moved over to the mill and the port and pivot holes were drilled.



The pivot hole was then tapped 10-32



The cylinder will be set aside until I complete the cylinder head. My drill rod came in so I worked on a couple of those parts. I made the pivot pin by taking a pice of drill rod and drilling both ends and tapping the holes 10-32



I also made the shaft portion of the crank shaft. I turned a shoulder onto the blank. Since I intend on Niter bluing the whole crankshaft as an assembly I sized it for a tight press fit because locktite will not survive the blueing process.



The last piece I made was the exhaust stack. I started by turning some decorative grooves in a piece of brass.



Next the fitting was drilled out.



I flipped the fitting in the chuck and turned it down to the 10-32 major diameter.



Then the part was threaded and undercut.



I will finish this post with a family shot.



Till next time.

Tony
 

 


Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2016, 02:41:51 AM »
I know that it has been a while since I've posted but life has been bound and determined to interfere with my shop time lately. The good news is that I have made some pretty good progress. There's enough that I think I will split this into 2 posts. Let's get to it. The next part I made was the cylinder head. I turned down some hex bar.



Next I used a round over bit as a form tool to shape the dome on top



Then I superglued the head onto the cylinder and then centered it up in the mill using my coaxial indicator.



Then I used my DRO's bolt circle function to drill the mounting holes to depth. This is the first time I've used it and it worked like a charm.



After separating the pieces I drilled out the holes in the head to clearance size.



Then the cylinder holes were tapped.



That completes those pieces. On to the piston. The original design has you peen the rod onto the piston. I'm not a fan of peening so I decided that I would go with a threaded piston. I turned the piston almost to size and drilled and tapped the center.



Next I made the piston rod. A piece of drill rod was turned down and threaded to fit the piston.



The part was flipped over and drilled and reamed to take the set screw that joins it to the big end.



Next it screwed the rod into the piston and used it as a mandril to take the piston to size.



 It was time to make the big end. In this design,it's made from brass hex and screwed to the piston rod. I started by drilling and reaming the bore.



After parting the piece off and cleaning it up it was over to the mill where I drilled the hole for the piston rod.



Then it was tapped to match the piston rod.



That's it for this post. My next post will cover  making  the whistle and the start of my flywheel adventure. That should get me caught up.

Tony

Offline zeeprogrammer

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6389
  • West Chester, PA, USA
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2016, 10:02:34 AM »
Glad you got shop time. Looks like you made very good use of it.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13758
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2016, 11:16:18 AM »
Good to see some progress Tony. Should have a nice runner before too long now :)

Bill

Offline Don1966

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6016
  • Morgan City, LA (Along the Gulf Coast)
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2016, 12:48:36 PM »
She's looking good Tony and you should be close to completing it. I will be. Waiting to see it running soon.

 :ThumbsUp:
Don

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2016, 02:02:55 PM »
Thanks guys. I've only been able to get 30-45 min at a time in the shop. It's been a case of do an operation and then shut it down. Rinse and repeat. Any one session doesn't give me enough progress to be worth posting. As evidenced by my camera, if you do enough mini sessions you eventually do get the makings of a post.

Tony

Offline AOG

  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 683
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2016, 03:21:00 PM »
It's time for part 2. To finish off the crank assembly I needed to make the crank pin. In the original design the crank pin is drilled and tapped to take a retaining screw and then peened into the crank disk. I wasn't fond of this design so I threaded the crank disk and made a shoulder bolt to retain the con rod onto the crank. I took a piece of hex stock and turned the profile.



Then it was threaded and parted off.



It was time to start on the whistle. This is another area where I deviated from the design. I have read several complaints the original whistle design verged on being a dog whistle. I have chosen to increase the length and width of the barrel in order to drop the resonant frequency of the whistle.

I started by turning some half inch hex bar round.



Then I pulled out the ball turner and rounded the end.



Then I flipped the part and turned down the threaded portion.



Then I threaded the end. Naturally I only had a hex die in that size. That will come back and bite me later.



Next I drilled and reamed the interior.



I then took a scrap of half inch tube and bored it out to a snug sliding fit over the whistle barrel.



Then the barrel was taken over to the mill and the slot was cut.



Next the plug was milled to size.



When I pushed the plug into the barrel disaster struck. The threaded portion cracked.



I think I know what happened. When I turned the portion to be threaded down to fit the hex die I made it too thin to take the under cut at the end of the thread. When I pushed in the plug the area gave way. I've ordered a round die and I am currently remaking the part.

Till next time

Tony

Offline b.lindsey

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13758
  • Dallas, NC, USA
    • Workbench-Miniatures
Re: AOG's Version of the Reichart Pip-Squeak
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2016, 04:46:02 PM »
That is a shame about the whistle!  But aside from that little issue it looks great. Round 2 will go better I am sure :)

Bill