Monitor Steam Engine

[fcheslop]

No you have to remove it before powering up. The self extraction bit is to save having to give it a wee biff to release it
cheers

[crueby]

Fortunately on this model the cylinder walls are very thick, so less risk of punching through, plus the caps will hide this one. To hide further you could thread the bad holes and run in a threaded part of a bolt.

One thing that Kozo showed a lot on his train models books - make a drilling jig out of thinner material using the rotary table, clamp that to the cylinder, and use it to guide the holes for the bolts. Make a fake cylinder cap out of a thin slice of steel, or maybe slightly thicker aluminum, just has to have the inner part where it would register to the cylinder bore, and use the rotary table to drill the holes in that. Then clamp that in place on cylinder without the rotary table, and use the x/y on the table to align each hole for drilling. If clamping is tough, hold in place for first hole, thread that and run in a bolt to hold it for the rest. Be sure to have the jig lined up properly so the holes at either end line up properly. That was one huge takeaway from Kozo's books (there were lots), make jigs since they save time in the long run, and make repeatability better with basic tools. This could solve your z-axis height issue.

[crueby]

No you have to remove it before powering up. The self extraction bit is to save having to give it a wee biff to release it
cheers

'A wee biff' - I like that phrase - wanted to do that to the back of coworkers heads sometimes.... and them to me I'm sure!

[zeeprogrammer]

No you have to remove it before powering up. The self extraction bit is to save having to give it a wee biff to release it
cheers

Ah. Thanks Frazer.

[zeeprogrammer]

No you have to remove it before powering up. The self extraction bit is to save having to give it a wee biff to release it
cheers

'A wee biff' - I like that phrase - wanted to do that to the back of coworkers heads sometimes.... and them to me I'm sure!

That's funny. I was replying to Frazer and thinking about that 'wee biff' and how I enjoy the language in the U.K.
One thing that always struck me when I was working there...not just the terms, but they tend to use more adjectives than we do.
Made things more colorful and interesting.

[EDIT] Oh and thanks for reminding me Chris. I have several of Kozo's books. Time to bring them out again.

[crueby]

Oh - and adding to the post earlier about the drill jig - you may be tempted to use one of the existing cylinder caps for the jig, but since the holes in those are larger for bolt clearance, there would be too much error. Unless you have not drilled the caps yet - I forget, am too lazy to look back! - drill one cap with tap-size holes, use it for jig, then go back and drill them out larger for clearance....

[zeeprogrammer]

Oh - and adding to the post earlier about the drill jig - you may be tempted to use one of the existing cylinder caps for the jig, but since the holes in those are larger for bolt clearance, there would be too much error. Unless you have not drilled the caps yet - I forget, am too lazy to look back! - drill one cap with tap-size holes, use it for jig, then go back and drill them out larger for clearance....

Drill jig? Earlier post? I'm also too lazy to look back.

Haven't drilled the caps yet. Plan was to use the rotary table and just go around with a slightly larger drill. 60 degrees per hole. Should just line up with cylinder holes.

You're scaring me dude.  What am I missing?
You mention drilling one cap with tap-size holes and using it for a jig. Why tap-size holes? Aren't they small to take a thread? And what jig?

Okay...I'm stopping right here tonight.

Well...not because of that. Is time for supper and 'stinking hoppies'!!!!!

[crueby]

Oh - and adding to the post earlier about the drill jig - you may be tempted to use one of the existing cylinder caps for the jig, but since the holes in those are larger for bolt clearance, there would be too much error. Unless you have not drilled the caps yet - I forget, am too lazy to look back! - drill one cap with tap-size holes, use it for jig, then go back and drill them out larger for clearance....

Drill jig? Earlier post? I'm also too lazy to look back.

Haven't drilled the caps yet. Plan was to use the rotary table and just go around with a slightly larger drill. 60 degrees per hole. Should just line up with cylinder holes.

You're scaring me dude.  What am I missing?
You mention drilling one cap with tap-size holes and using it for a jig. Why tap-size holes? Aren't they small to take a thread? And what jig?

Okay...I'm stopping right here tonight.

Well...not because of that. Is time for supper and 'stinking hoppies'!!!!!

The earlier post talking about kozos drill jig use, post 247...
Tap size holes, as in holes sized for tapping the cylinder, vs clearance holes in the caps. Go back about 5 posts... After the S.H. wears off!   In between the banter posts was some actual information, I know that is not allowed...

[zeeprogrammer]

The earlier post talking about kozos drill jig use, post 247...
Tap size holes, as in holes sized for tapping the cylinder, vs clearance holes in the caps. Go back about 5 posts...

Post 452? Getting Kozo's books out. I do remember using one hole to help 'clamp' for others.
Do you recall the particular book?

After the S.H. wears off!   In between the banter posts was some actual information, I know that is not allowed...

Oh no! I've been breaking the rules?
I mean...we've been breaking the rules?
I mean...you've been breaking the rules?

What's not allowed? The banter or the actual information?
Are you trying to tell me you've been giving me actual information? Actual? 

Maybe it's me.

[crueby]

Yes, 452. Where the heck did I get 247? Brain to finger connection is loose!   

He used that technique a lot. I spent most time with the Building The New Shay book, so in there. He used it for almost anything that had covers or mating pieces with multiple bolts. With a drill jig, you dont even need an x y table, can put part in freestanding mill vise and use drill press.

In that book, first page I looked at uses it, page 49, upper right.

Later on, very relevant, page 170, drilling cylinder cap bolt holes and valve chest holes. I think first reference is page 18, end brackets.

[Don1966]

Yes, 452. Where the heck did I get 247? Brain to finger connection is loose!   

To many left turns and Stinking Hoppies........ 

Don 

[crueby]

Yes, 452. Where the heck did I get 247? Brain to finger connection is loose!   

To many left turns and Stinking Hoppies........ 

Don 

Are you saying that I shoulda Toke a left turn at Albuquerque?  Bugs would be proud of me!

[zeeprogrammer]

 
One has to be real careful on this forum. 

The new Shay. The one book I don't have.
Well I wanted it anyway. Whether I need it or not.

[crueby]

One has to be real careful on this forum. 

The new Shay. The one book I don't have.
Well I wanted it anyway. Whether I need it or not.

The A3 loco book has same jig usage, almost every page starting with 15. For cylinder holes, check page 86. Very handy technique for matching holes.

[zeeprogrammer]

The A3 loco book has same jig usage, almost every page starting with 15. For cylinder holes, check page 86. Very handy technique for matching holes.

Interesting. I have that book. In fact, I was going through it in detail a couple of months ago.
Drawing it up in CubifyDesign. Haven't gotten past the tender yet though.

Seems like reading for me doesn't make things stick. Have to do.

I've been going through your Shay thread this morning. About halfway through. I wish I'd been on the forum more during that time.

BTW According to your last post in that thread...you're not done. What's up?