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Is the tommy bar short enough to not hit the lathe bed? Are there (at least) two tommy bar holes?Are the screws located so as to correspond with the (presumed) dimples in the die edge? Will they close the (presumed split) die when tightened? Is there a screw positioned so as to force the die open if that is required?If you do decide to knurl it, how are you going to hold it now that it's removed from its parent stock? Did you think about that?I guess it's time to start volume four of the list. :-)
When you're at the nadir, the only direction is up.
Zee, you could have used co-ordinates to dril the holes and been able to clamp the cylinder to the mill table.Regarding tommy bars I would remove them from teh die holder if you are threading under power unless you don't like your right thumb, also if its a double ended holder make sure the unused screws are not sticking out.
Hi Zee, yes that has happen to mine as well. It gets loose and you don't notice it and it messes up the threads. Just drill a hole close to it and tap it to fit the set screw or you could tap it larger and make a new handle.
Quote from: Don1966 on February 06, 2016, 06:08:00 PMHi Zee, yes that has happen to mine as well. It gets loose and you don't notice it and it messes up the threads. Just drill a hole close to it and tap it to fit the set screw or you could tap it larger and make a new handle.Thanks Don. I hadn't thought about a hole near it.Say...is there any real reason for it to be threaded? Could it be used with a (there it is again) tommy bar?I just saw that the threads are not 'starting' to strip. They ARE stripped. I can easily pull the handle out without rotating. Poo.By the way...I asked earlier about using stainless steel bearing shaft instead of drill rod to make those drill bit holders for a collet. Thoughts?