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Those spring-loaded tap guides eat up a lot of Z axis room. OK on larger machines but not on Sherline-sized equipment or round column mill-drills.
I don't bother with a sprung guide, can't see whats wrong with one hand on the quill lever and the other turning the tap, also more rigid.
Certainly not ideal, but years ago when I worked in a tool room/machine shop, I worked with someone who made a little "Tapping Block" to start small taps. It was just a block of steel about 1" thick with different holes drilled in it to clear the O.D. of the taps. It acts as a kind of guide bushing for the tap to start. Hold the block over the work piece, start the tap straight, & let the block guide the O.D. of the tap. Like I said, not ideal, but easier than trying to start by just "eyeballing" it. John
Quote from: mklotz on February 13, 2016, 02:02:24 PMThose spring-loaded tap guides eat up a lot of Z axis room. OK on larger machines but not on Sherline-sized equipment or round column mill-drills.Good point for mills. I was mainly thinking of using it on the lathe. Sorry for my unclarity.Quote from: Jasonb on February 13, 2016, 04:21:12 PMI don't bother with a sprung guide, can't see whats wrong with one hand on the quill lever and the other turning the tap, also more rigid.Yep. But I've converted my mill to CNC so the quill won't move on its own. Before that the quill (or tail stock) would freely follow the tap into the work once started. I did find that larger taps would slip in the drill chuck after going in a little ways.So many options. :-)Thanks.Hugh
A nut question...When dealing with nuts that go onto manifolds or stems (i.e. a stem nut)...does one chamfer one side or both sides?Is it a matter of taste or tradition?Examples on the Monitor would include the piston and valve glands. Or the nuts used to attach the tubing.Thanks.
No work on mine either today, been out multiple times clearing the driveway with the latest storm. Sounds like PA got hit too.