Monitor Steam Engine

[zeeprogrammer]

Looks like I can get most of the taps/dies from Enco. Most of the taps in sets of 3 (taper, plug, bottom).
I looked at BritishFasteners but they are a bit more pricey.
However, I'm not having much luck with the larger taps (5/16-40, 3/8-40, and 1/2-40).
BritishFasterners has them...but I'd like a sanity check.

They call them out as -T or -B which I take to mean taper and bottom. I don't see a plug.
I'm thinking not a problem. Right?

[crueby]

Zee - Another place with a big selection of taps/dies and decent prices is Victor Machinery - I've filled in a bunch of sizes from there:

www.victornet.com

[Hugh Currin]

Zee:

I just checked and MSC Industrial had all these. Didn't look close enough to see what types, but the basic thread form was there. Also don't know how relatively expensive they are. I think MSC runs a little higher than Enco.

Hugh

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Zee, if you have a + and a - reamer your golden. Now, you can replace your .500" and report it as a replacement tool and get to buy another new tool also since replacements don't count as a tooling purchases.   . I maybe wrong, but, if you are going to build to imperial measurements,  I'd stick with standard size UNC or UNF  threads (price and availability) , if you are affixing any piping,  you may have to look into the ME threads for the piping . PMR does a great tutorial on what will work and not work on the ME piping threads. Glass empty;  ta,

Cletus

[zeeprogrammer]

Crueby - Thanks. I checked their site. A bit confusing to me but I'll review again.
Hugh - Thanks. Yes. I did check MSC and they seemed a bit more than a little more expensive.

Cletus - Thanks. Yes piping. That's the next thing I have to look for. Seems always difficult to get copper tubing of the dimensions desired but I haven't looked for a while. I also need to find out if brass tubing is a sufficient replacement and what's available. But then...I like the color difference that copper would lend.

Off to place an order.

[zeeprogrammer]

 

Broke my 1/8" 2-flute end mill. I went real slow but probably too deep. 
The rod is 303 stainless steel. No idea what my actual spindle speed was. Seemed fine.

This thread is sorely lacking in photos so I had no choice but to show this. The piece that broke off is to the left of the slot.



The blue and scribe lines were there for a sanity check while I turned the handwheels.
I was surprised by the jagged stuff along the far side.

This is the kind of boo-boo, when just starting out, that can be pretty disappointing and frustrating. 

But it's a double-ended end mill. And I have a 4-flute too.
I'll get back at it once I'm done 

Oops. Sorry dear. I'll keep it down. Pay no attention to the dum-dum in the basement.

[zeeprogrammer]

At it anyway.
Smaller bites this time.



It probably doesn't matter (it's not seen) but the slot is a bit ugly half-way along one wall. I'm thinking something moved when the bit broke and the slot is a bit wider for about a third of the length. I don't think it will affect anything and is easy enough to make another (busted bit and all) later.

Buy hey...some progress. 

[Don1966]

Zee did you make one deep cut or multi passes? That raised edge looks like the endmill was having trouble cutting. Either it was dull or you were to aggressive. It is a start buddy and keep it coming...........

Don

[b.lindsey]

Carl, did you have the y-axis locked? Given that you were cutting stainless and with a small end mill also, it doesn't take much table  movement for the end mill to grab and break. Could account for the roughness along one wall as well.  As Don mentioned, shallower cuts should help too as you no doubt found out on try #2. Still progress though as you say, one part at a time!!

Bill

[zeeprogrammer]

Don...no, that was my mistake. I've always done very small cuts but this time I went for it. To be honest, I remember a post (or personal post) from our past friend Vernon who had questioned why I didn't 'go for it'. So I did. But I think he was coming from a more industrial background.

I don't think the cutter was dull. Unless it came that way. I've used it very little..and even then on aluminum.

Bill...yep. Second pass went pretty good and more comfortable. Too bad something had moved. Luckily it was on the poorer shaft.

One learns more from mistakes anyway.

Somewhat discombobulated right now. Our daughters surprised us by booking us into a B&B near Gettysburg, complete with dinner at a nearby restaurant. And we get a 90 minute massage. 40th anniversary. That in itself is surprising to me. I am a fortunate man.

[b.lindsey]

Very thoughtful daughters!! And congratulations on the 40 years!!

Bill

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks Bill. Have to tell you I shed a few tears when they did that.

  Made a 'real' part today.

This is the steam inlet gland. Simple turning and threading...but filled with anxiety for me...it's been so long.
I haven't drilled the 4 mounting holes yet. That's to be done on the mill.
Behind the part is a 1/4 diameter, 1/8 long piece that fits into the steam chest cover.
Gotta say I'm happy.
0.156 thru hole. The thread is 5/16-40. (Thanks Jason.)



I started on a nut but realized I either need a tool, or need to make one, to make the hole for the internal thread.

But here's where I need some 

Picture a nut, internal thread 5/16-40 and a 0.156 thru hole.
Tubing of 0.156 OD (.125 ID).

What I don't get is how the tubing is held. I can't see that soldering would be used.
Is the tube put through the nut and then flared?
If so...I could use some tips on how.
Or can some one point me to a build that has something similar.

Wait...what the 'crap' am I doing here? This is my 40th anniversary.
Sees ya. Wouldn't wanta bees ya. 

[Bluechip]

Looks a bit like the tube needs an 'olive'.

The back-nut compresses it to grip the tube against the fitting.

See if I can find a pic. for you.

Dave

This sort of thing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRASS-OLIVES-IMPERIAL-BARREL-OLIVE-PLUMBING-WATER-PIPE-GAS-COMPRESSION-OLIVES-/270817174837

Car brake pipes use them.

OR ... Union nut & nipples    Like thus:

https://maccmodels.co.uk/live-steam-fittings/union-nuts-and-nipples.html

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks Dave!
Do you mean like the stuff used in plumbing when hooking up an ice-maker or hot water butler?
I could see that but it's strange nothing is in the plans.

[Bluechip]

Zee, modified previous post.
The union nipple is soldered in.
The olive is just slid on the tube and the back-nut then squeezes it onto the tube. Then mostly un-removable. 

Dave

It looks like you should be making a 3/16" Nipple and a nut like this;

https://maccmodels.co.uk/live-steam-fittings/union-nuts-and-nipples/5-16-x-32-nuts-for-3-16-nipples.html

Except yours is 40 TPI, not 32 TPI. So, somewhere it SHOULD instruct you to make the nipple & the nut ??

I don't have your plans to hand ...  so ...

Dave