Author Topic: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7  (Read 15377 times)

Offline tel

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2012, 11:07:18 PM »
Nice job Arnold! I made up a carriage stop with a revolving head and three different length pins for use with that sort of thing - I'll fish it out and take a pic later, if I think of it. I did write it up in Model Engineer at the time - for anyone with back issues see 'Graduate in Style', sometime in the '90's
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Offline tel

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #16 on: August 21, 2012, 11:12:07 PM »
For those who have 'em

The older I get, the better I was.
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Offline Stuart

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2012, 07:45:31 AM »
looking good there Arnold


the accepted method to get rid of back lash in the setup you have used is to wrap some cord round the chuck with a weight on the end (make it a fair one ) as you normally only go round once it works fine



Stuart
My aim is for a accurate part with a good finish

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2012, 07:56:09 PM »
Thanks Tel  :) I don't have those ME's, but I've seen pictures of the revolving head carriage stops.  That's one of my tuits as well, but most likely for a tool-building-at-a-whim day, or when/if I get to a point where I really need it.

Stuart, thank you  :) - I forgot about that cord and weight trick  :ThumbsUp: ; fortunately things turned out OK as I have a light feel and find it easy to manually apply about the same amount of torque consistently.

After work today, I milled a bit of aluminium offcut down to form a little stamping jig.  It's hollowed out at the bottom to allow a consistent seat on the curve of the wheel graduation ring, and smack-bang in the center of that I milled a 6mm slot to fit my set of number punches.  The back of the jig provided some consistent spacing to the rim of the handwheel, and the front was also milled down slightly to allow me to hold the punch in it's slot with a finger.  In the next photo, I placed the "0" punch in the jig; if you imagine picking up the punch and jig , rotating it 90o clockwise and placing it in the angle between the graduation ring and rim side of the handwheel in the left of the photo, You might get the idea - I forgot to take a photo of it in use on the handwheel:


The jig worked well for stamping the numbers - but I forgot that the "1" in my cheap & cheerful number punch set is slightly offset to the base, and that the "7" is rotated quite a bit if used in a stamping jig  :facepalm: .  So all the "1"s are a bit low, and the 7 is crooked.

As a last step, I finished off the handwheel rim to get rid of chuck marks:


Trying to get a photo of the finished result was very difficult; in the evening, the lighting in my shop makes it difficult, so not the best of photos, but after I rubbed a slightly dirty oily finger across things, I managed to get this:


The kit & caboodle ready to send to their new owner.  There are two missing bits.  The one is the handle for the handwheel; I'll leave that to "W" to make, as he can now decide whether he'd like to try his hand at metric single-point threading using the gears, or make one from whatever he has handy.  The handle thread in the handwheel is M6 which is standard here in the southern parts of Africa.  The other bit is a worm and wheel for making a rotary table or dividing head; that'll have to wait a bit, as I'm ready and rearing to have a go at building an engine right now  :) :


Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2012, 11:23:47 PM »
but after I rubbed a slightly dirty oily finger across things,

Finger paints! What fun!

Looks great Arnold.
Great idea in this thread too.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Offline Don1966

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2012, 11:39:40 PM »
Good job Arnold, I have been following with interest. Watching you over come your obstacles was a good learning experience.

Don

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #21 on: August 23, 2012, 06:49:35 PM »
Thanks Carl  :) .  The finger painting guarantees an "Inverse French" fingernail finish as well  :Jester:

Don, thank you  :) - the obstacles are where the fun lies  :ThumbsUp:

Off to package up that lot; it needs to be delivered to a lift tomorrow  ;)

Kind regards, Arnold
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #22 on: June 02, 2013, 04:06:42 AM »
A handle is something my ML7 came without but you have given enough information for me to possibly try using an old sewing machine hand wheel to start with. I'll have to do some investigations as to sizes etc thanks for the thread great work.

Offline John S

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2013, 09:56:38 AM »

 So I need 125 divisions on the dividing head to finish the job... 

I ran Marv's DIVHEAD program after that and what do you know...  With the hole plates I have available for my dividing head, the result was:
Quote
NO SOLUTION WAS FOUND USING AVAILABLE HOLE PLATES
a plate with an integer multiple of 25 holes is required

 :rant: :rant: :wallbang: :wallbang: :facepalm: :facepalm:

Drat... Rats...  Darn It... Cr@p !!!  Not Marv's fault - I just used his program!.

So, now I need to either make an index plate with 25/50/75 holes, or I have to break down the setup as it was - well -"set up" - and use the rotary table to do the 2.88o per mark off that...

I need to think a bit now  :noidea:

Regards, Arnold

This is why because 125 and 250 divisions are so common on imperial machines we add a 25 tooth circle to the dividing plates we sell.
We put 25 on one, 63 and 127 on the other two making 7 rows per plate instaed of the standard 6 rows on the B&S plates.
John Stevenson, Nottingham , England

Offline ths

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Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #24 on: June 02, 2013, 11:47:36 AM »
Where does one purchase these dividing plates John?

Hugh.

Offline John S

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John Stevenson, Nottingham , England

Offline ths

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Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #26 on: June 02, 2013, 02:24:07 PM »
Thanks John.

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #27 on: June 07, 2013, 12:32:29 PM »
A handle is something my ML7 came without but you have given enough information for me to possibly try using an old sewing machine hand wheel to start with. I'll have to do some investigations as to sizes etc thanks for the thread great work.

 ::) Withn days of posting this I had to order through RDG tools for some bit n pieces I added the lead screw handle it arrived this morning and is now fitted working well.  :cartwheel:

I am still missing the indicator/needle so if someone could measure up their's for me I'll make that up.

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #28 on: June 07, 2013, 06:39:05 PM »
Hope this helps Ginger.

Just check if your lathe has a mounting hole already tapped for it; if it is, then it will most likely be for a 3/16" BSW screw.  If the hole is not there, You'll have to drill and tap something suitable.  M4 or M5 will do just fine.  Make the hole and counterbore a bit larger than needed for the screw; that allows you to adjust it a bit.
The marking line is just a deepish groove scribed on the top, and any metal will be suitable for use.

Crap-O-Cad (all metric measurements):


A couple of views of what it looks like removed from the lathe:



Bad lighting; you can't see the scribed marker line on the top...

Installed on the lathe:




You don't have to be super-accurate at making it - in fact the thinned section closer to the handwheel and the curved bottom isn't really needed.  A suitable small bit of plate will also do the job :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
 
Building an engine takes Patience, Planning, Preparation and Machining.
Procrastination is nearly the same, but it precludes machining.
Thus, an engine will only be built once the procrastination stops and the machining begins!

Offline Ginger Nut

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Re: Leadscrew handwheel for Myford series 7
« Reply #29 on: June 08, 2013, 04:05:10 AM »
 :cheers: Arnold thats tops many thanks  :NotWorthy:. I think hole is there so no need to drill and tap and in last photo can see the scribed line in centre of maybe a nice Brass one would look smick  :thinking: have saved draughtsman style drawing.

Screws  :thinking: maybe one of the old Singer sewing machines or might just have to bit the bullet and learn to turn one. J