Stuart Beam Build

[wagnmkr]

I have lusted after a Stuart Beam engine forever. Don't know why, but I just really like them. When I was asked a few days ago if I wanted a casting kit for one ... complete and barely started, I jumped at it. The bonus was there were a couple of extra bits with it ... a feed pump kit and a governor kit for a #9 engine.

Now, this will be my first casting kit build. I will need some hand holding, and likely some butt kicking, but I think all is available here.

I have started with the cylinder just 'cause it jumped out at me. So I set it up in the four jaw and centered it and got the face as close to vertical and squared up as I could. I took a very light cut and all seems well, so I will continue with that later in the evening.

Cheers

Tom

[GWRdriver]

Hi Tom,
There will be lots of help here and you'll find the Stuart Beam is a bit more of a challenge than the usual a beginner's engine, but it's a beginner's BEAM engine.  My first recommendation would be to fettle (file and clean up) all the castings.  Remove flash, bumps, grit, etc, to the point where they are ready to paint and then spray them all with a good primer, and then begin machining.

I found only one drawing/dimension error (that I recall), at least on the older drawings, and that is the location of the governor.  You have a ways to go yet before you get to that point but make note that If installed as-dimensioned the flyballs foul the flywheel rim.  The length of the drive belt and throttle arm will need to be adjusted to accommodate this difference.

[RonGinger]

I am building the Stuart beam, and I don't see anything about a governor. Was that an option? I have never seen one. Are you maybe referring to the Major Beam?

[Jasonb]

It was an option that was sold separately, just two threaded holes in teh base casting to fix it, pully on the crank and the inlet flange changed to one that incorporates a butterfly valve

[wagnmkr]

Thanks Harry

I am undecided just yet as to whether I will have a governor or not.

Ron, I definitely defer to Jason on the governor issue. I know nothing about the different variations of this engine. As Jason says, there is an add on that seems to require drawing #90103 and part # 34-50-71393.

I got some more time so I finished off the face. I assume I need to open out the intake port that is 1/32 too small.

Tom

[Jasonb]

Yes best open it up to have the two the same. Also poke some fine wire down the ports as they often still contain the sand from the core which you don't want finding its way into the engine.

Before you do much more it would be best to establish where the centre of the cylinder bore is relative to the cast outside flanges, that way you can measure the right distance from ctr to port face

J

[wagnmkr]

Jason, you were right about the sand. I have quite a pile on the bench at the moment. Is there anything I can soak the cylinder in to loosen/get rid of all of it?

My plan for today was to do exactly as you suggested ... find the center and do some measuring. I only skimmed that surface to get it flat. Then, I will open up the port that is too small.

Cheers

Tom

[Jo]

Clean it with brake cleaner to get rid of any oil that might stick the sand in the ports and as Jason says poke some wire down them.

Some idiot sprayed WD40 down the ports of one of my triples forcing sand into the bore 

Jo

[wagnmkr]

I managed to get quite a bit of sand out. I will flush it again after I bore the cylinder.

Tom

[Ian S C]

I think it's worth fitting the governor,  The one above is a bit different to the one on the ST # 9 that I rebuilt.  I had to make up quite a few parts, the balls for the governor included, I made them about 1/16" larger in dia, and the arms 1/16" longer, and the governor operated quite well, holding the revs quite close to 400 rpm.
Ian S C

[wagnmkr]

Ian, I would like to fit both a govenor and a feed pump. I have both but they were meant for a #9. I would also like to put on a displacement lubricator, but for now I will be happy with a good job on the cylinder.

Tom

[GWRdriver]

for now I will be happy with a good job on the cylinder.

An excellent plan.  An old-hand local model engineer who I learned a lot from had a small sign on his workshop wall . . . "Make each part as if it's the only one."  It took me some time to learn what that meant.

[wagnmkr]

I got some more done and this will be it for today ...

The cylinder is bored to a bit less that required size, and it will be honed to the proper size.

One face was done while the cylinder was still in the lathe, so that face is square to the bore.

Center of the cylinder was found and the distance to the valve face is right where it should be.

The valve face is square to the cylinder and the bore is square all the way through.

I'm not sure how I did that given all the equipment I don't have.

Anyway, more to do to the cylinder, but it is getting there.

I put a black mark on the boring bar to tell me when to disconnect the power feed and do the rest by feel. I also mounted the cylinder about 1/4" out from the face of the chuck so the boring bar wouldn't bottom out.

Tom

[wagnmkr]

Just a quick question whilst I do some planning.

I have seen some of these engines with the exhaust on the "front side" (opposite the flywheel) and I have seen some with the exhaust on the "back side" (same side as flywheel) . I would like to have it on the back side as to me it fits in better with all the other stuff on that side instead of being the awkward cousin and the only thing on the other side.

Is there a place in real practice that it should be?

Tom

[Jo]

Normally out of the way. (Flywheels were to the rear of the engine so people didn't get caught).

But will it be in the way of the governor linkage?

Jo