Parsell & Weed Horizontal IC Engine

[vcutajar]

Had to catch up a little with your build and it is really looking good. I am still amazed how capable these Sherlines are.

Vince

[b.lindsey]

Thanks Vince, unlike certain threads which shall go nameless  ( ), you can catch up here a bit faster, sans menus, recipes, etc. Just kidding of course as I have contributed to the banter in said threads myself 

Bill

[zeeprogrammer]

Thanks Vince, unlike certain threads which shall go nameless  ( ), you can catch up here a bit faster, sans menus, recipes, etc. Just kidding of course as I have contributed to the banter in said threads myself 

Continuing the banter... 

"nameless' reminded me of 'nemo'. Which I thought had meant 'no name' and with which we referred to our first child until we knew whether 'it' was a she or he and could properly name. Now I see that it (also?) means 'nobody'.

Yous can call me zee, or yous can call me nemo, but yous doesn't has to call me nameless. 

And yes...I have been chipping away at my Monitor. Saving up pics.

Just trying to slow Vince down. 

[Mosey]

The spark plug is at an angle? Interesting indeed.
Mosey   

[littlelocos]

Hello Mosey,
I angled the spark plug to take care of an interference issue on the original kit and still remain compatible with the original castings.  The full-size engines used separate valve cages and a built-up spark plug.  In this scale, the head becomes one casting incorporating the valve cages and the head "plate". 

Another alternative would have been to go with a tiny, 10-32 plug and leave it straight.

Thanks,
Todd.

[b.lindsey]

I spent most of today working on one of the rear supports. I faced off the bottom using the 4 jaw chuck in the lathe and then turned the part around to turn the oil spigot on the top (photos 1 & 2).  Taking it to the mill I added the clearance holes for mounting it to the engine base (photo 3). In order to get some reference points for further machining, I made a simple fixture to mount the support in and proceeded to do the additional machining required (photos 4 & 5). After tapping the hole for the side rod, and the side hold for the cam gear pin, the support was mounted to the base (photo 6). I then checked the gears for proper meshing (photo 7) and finally added the linkages for the governor pushrod. After a few minor adjustments things seem to be working smoothly. The final picture shows things pretty much as they will be at final assembly.

Bill

[fumopuc]

Hi Bill, not an easy to make part. All machinings have to be acurate to the datum face and this started by this tiny casting. Well done and looking nice. This engine has more tricky corners than seen at the beginning.

[Kim]

Nice work Bill.  That guy does seem like a tricky little devil, but you got it licked and it looks very nice perched there doing its job!
Kim

[zeeprogrammer]

Nice work Bill. 

[b.lindsey]

Many thanks guys. I have found that there are several parts/castings that are a bit trickier that they seem at first glance. The other support should go a bit faster given what I learned on the first one. The trick will be to make sure they line up side to side so the flywkeeks won't bind. More to come today.

Bill

[Don1966]

Nice work on a tricky part Bill, it turned out a treat........

Don

[b.lindsey]

I did make a little progress on the other support but changed gears to knock out a couple more fiddly parts needed for the governor mechanism. These were the two tiny latch pins needed for the rocker arm and governor arm. Each one has an 11 degree angle milled onto the end and a "v" notch filed into the side to provide a "catch".  To mill the angle I used the angle table with the 3 jaw chuck attached as shown in photos 1 & 2. The notch was just filed into the side of the part using a triangular needle file (photo 3). The finished part is shown in photo 4 and installed in the rocker arm in photo 5 though it should be shown sticking out of the top of the arm, not the bottom.

The mating part for the governor arm was done similarly but was hardened after machining as per the drawings. This is shown in photos 6 & 7 and installed in the governor arm in the last photo.

Bill

[b.lindsey]

The two photos below hopefully show how the latch pins work...the first shows them in the locked position, and the second in the unlocked position, enabling the exhaust valve to close. The tolerances at this small size are very close. I know it is supposed to work but I will feel a lot better once I see it "working!!"

Bill

[wagnmkr]

Hmmm that seems to be somewhere around the "gnats whiskers" size clearance.

Well done

Tom

[sshire]

I've been following and amazed at what you've done. I keep looking at the drawings and I'm not convinced that making it from barstock (my original idea) is impossible. However, the beautiful work you've done with the castings, has me thinking twice.