Author Topic: Bandsaw Conversion  (Read 6080 times)

Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #15 on: October 19, 2015, 07:39:46 PM »
Art--You are right. I had told my customer to buy a wood cutting bandsaw and I would convert it for him.--Sure enough, the next week he showed up here with a 3 wheel Craftsman saw with 12" wheels. I had to sell it and go buy the two wheel 14" model to convert. The only good news was that I was able to sell the three wheel model for $10 more than he paid for it!!!

Offline BillTodd

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2015, 08:15:44 PM »
Art
It isnt too difficult to estimate the length of the band , just add PI* the diameter of the wheel to twice the wheel space. (it'll probably say of the blade box if you have a spare)

Eg a say  12 inch wheels 18" apart would be (in feet)  approximately 3 + (2* 1.5) =6 feet

Then all you need to do is count how many loops of the belt  in a minute  (you can usually hear the weld knock as it sweep past) and multiply by the belt length to give you a pretty good estimate in fpm


Offline Brian Rupnow

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2015, 08:19:39 PM »
This is a picture of the tube which my customer will be cutting, in a fixture I designed, on the bandsaw I modified. The tube is 1/2" o.d. 316 stainless steel with a .062" wall.

Offline Art K

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #18 on: October 20, 2015, 02:04:07 AM »
Yeah its worse than that, it has 6" wheels. But I do know the blade is 62" long. Maybe the hacksaw is better?
Art
"The beautiful thing about learning is that no one can take it away from you" B.B. King

Offline ths

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #19 on: October 20, 2015, 11:40:15 AM »
A good conversion there. I have a similar 14" bandsaw - I always hated it for woodworking - you've given a reason to rescue it from its forlorn position on a spare verandah! Hugh.

Offline GWRdriver

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Re: Bandsaw Conversion
« Reply #20 on: October 20, 2015, 04:31:05 PM »
Here's a photo, taken in mid-stream, of my bandsaw drive conversion.  The saw is a virtually NOS US-made Delta 14" wood cutting bandsaw picked up locally for relatively cheap.  The owner made a stab (literally) at woodworking but was all thumbs and a danger to himself and the wife said "It must all go."  His loss my gain.  It's a cast iron machine with decent bones, except for the big wheels which are aluminum (or potmetal) die castings.

Working backwards from my target speed range I contemplated my drive options.  I had a 3/4hp/1725rpm C-face motor on hand, and a chance find on eBay of a new David Brown C-face 90-degree reduction gearbox (for a pittance) sent me in that direction.  I put together 2&3-step V-pulleys (driving and driven) which most nearly gave me the range of blade speeds I needed and luckily everything worked out reasonably well.

When I last worked on it I was finishing off the belt slacking mechanism.  By rotating the motor 90° into the vertical (thus minimizing the machine footprint) I could bore the cast mounting feet of the gearbox case for bronze bushes which now slide on a pair of silver steel "ways" in an angle iron frame.  Belt slacking and speed change is achieved by moving the motor/gearbox chunk (and thus the driving V-pulley) forward or back by a leadscrew between the ways.   So far, so good.

A critical item, so I was told by a long-ago mentor who converted a butcher's meat saw to very successful metal cutting saw, is the blade guide arrangement and it appears in order to end up with a good performing machine some alterations to the guides, primarily stiffening, will be needed.  What those alterations will be I haven't yet decided, I'm not yet to that part of the project.  My inclination is to go ahead and begin using the saw and if blade guide modifications are needed then cross that bridge when I come to it.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2015, 04:37:16 PM by GWRdriver »
Cheers,
Harry

 

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