Author Topic: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)  (Read 242129 times)

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #960 on: November 22, 2017, 05:27:52 AM »
The rule of thumb for how deep to tap taper pipe NPT threads is to go until 6 thread of the tap are still sticking above the surface.
That's a good rule of thumb to keep in mind!  I've not heard that before (not surprising, since I have no experience with NTP threads  :embarassed: ).

As for boiler bushings, phosphor bronze is good and machines much more easily than Cu.
That could have been a good idea too.  In this case, Rudy specifies copper, for everything on the boiler, and since its my first experience here, I'm trying to follow his lead quite closely.  But it will be good to know for next time.  I think Kozo uses bronze for most of the bushings on the boiler for the A3 Switcher, so that fits exactly with what you're saying.

Thanks Rklopp,
Kim

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #961 on: November 23, 2017, 05:11:43 AM »
I didn’t have a lot of shop time today, with family obligations and all, but I did make a little progress.  I made the boiler tubes.

These were 6” lengths of 3/16” copper tube. I annealed one end and bent them as shown in the drawing.  I made a little bending mandrel  out of a scrap piece of brass, and clamped it in my bench vice:


And bent the tube at a slightly more than 90 degree angle, like so:


Then I cut the back end of the tube at an angle (probably not required, but it seemed right).  Here are all three tubes ready to go.


And what they look like fitted into the boiler:


Not sure when I’ll get out to the shop next, but when I do, it will be silver solder time!
Kim

Offline 10KPete

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #962 on: November 23, 2017, 05:58:37 AM »
That is one cool way to put in simple water tubes. I may try that on a little boiler I have in mind... :thinking:

Pete
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Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #963 on: November 23, 2017, 02:24:44 PM »
Nice going on those Kim. On the angled ends of the tubes, how much gap is there to solder. I suspect the fit is closer than the picture makes it look?  And what's up with the popsicle sticks ?  ;D

Bill

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #964 on: November 23, 2017, 05:01:03 PM »
Thanks Pete and Bill!

On the angled ends of the tubes, how much gap is there to solder. I suspect the fit is closer than the picture makes it look?
Yes, I think they are pretty close. I was looking at that too, and my current plan is to check on that gap before soldering and, if needed, bend the boiler in a little to close the gap.  I've also thought about adding a little 'copper swarf' as filler if needed, though I'm not sure how well that would work, its something I might try.  Because I clearly need those to be nice and close fitting before soldering!

And what's up with the popsicle sticks ?  ;D
I had to go back through the pictures to see what you were referring to there, Bill!  That is a little popsicle stick box that one of my kids made for me when they were younger.  A very thoughtful and sweet gift :)  I have had it out in my shop for many years and keep random drill bits and things in it.  Guess it was just in the way when I took those pics!

Kim

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #965 on: November 23, 2017, 06:49:49 PM »
Those are the best tools of all Kim!!  It looked like it was supporting the end of that board along with that plastic container. Thought maybe you had a newfangled machinist's Jack or something  :) Happy Thanksgiving.

Bill

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #966 on: November 25, 2017, 03:52:15 AM »
Hope you all had as wonderful a Thanksgiving as I did. I just sat around all day eating and chatting with family and friends.  It was very enjoyable.

Today however, I got to have some significant shop time.  Today was Soldering the Boiler day.  This has been concern of mine since I started this project.  I keep telling myself – other people do it, they can make it work, so you can figure it out too.  But it has still been looming as one of the most exciting/scary parts of this project.

Today, I could put it off no longer.  It was time to do the deed.

So, armed with all parts made and fitted, and with all the confidence I could muster, I fluxed up the first bushing to go for it.


First difference – Copper seems to suck heat away much faster than brass!  It was hard to get that big piece of copper hot enough to melt the silver solder.  I was using a little 000 tip that I use for most of the soldering I do – it makes a small (super hot) flame that is mostly controllable.  That has worked for pretty much everything I’ve done so far.  But with this, I just couldn’t get it hot enough.

Then remembered that I had purchased a rosebud tip for my torch, just in case I needed more heat.  The smallest rosebud I could find was a #4, so that’s what I got. Now THAT made enough heat!  But it was a bit like holding the back end of a Saturn V rocket or something. It was QUITE the Flame!  (at least compared to what I’ve been using).

Anyway, using the #4 rosebud tip on the inside of the tube, did the job in short order.  Turned everything black, but it sure worked!


A pickle & a wash, then setup the next bushing:


Again with the rosebud.  Seemed to work quite well.


OK, maybe I was a little quick with that.  After a pickle & a cleaning, it looked to me like one side of each of the bushings just didn’t get any solder.  So I fluxed them up again, and put some solder there to see if I could improve those joints.


One more trip with the torch and it seems to have finished those up nicely.   But now I’m starting to worry that I’m getting the copper too hot.  You can see the deep heat patters around the bushings there.


After a pickle and a bath and it looked pretty good.

Next, I setup the boiler tubes.  As Bill mentioned, there are some potentially big gaps where the straight piece of tube goes into the boiler.   I played around with that, trying to minimize any opening (though I’m not sure I really changed anything significantly).  Then I fluxed things up put on some solder.

But this time, I decided to try a cutting tip – I’ve got some smaller cutting torch tips and those are essentially a little rosebud, as long as you don’t trigger the extra oxygen.  So, I tried a #0 cutting torch tip (being careful to leave the cutting oxygen valve closed completely). This seemed to work really well – distributed heat well and evenly, and was a much smaller, more controlled fame (still quite big mind you, maybe a small ICBM rather than the Saturn V).

I apparently didn’t get a before shot, but here’s the after shot.  I was getting a little more aggressive and did all three tubes at once.  It seemed to work quite well.  I did the front end first, then turned it around (very carefully!) and did the cab end.


After cleanup, I took this picture down the front end of the boiler.   I think the joints look pretty good.  I tried back lighting them and couldn’t see any light coming through.  I know that isn’t definitive, but its at least a first step!


And here’s the cab end of the tubes.


And an overall outside shot.


Now, my original plan had been to solder each of the end bushings on, one at a time, then to solder the end cap in place.  But with the amount of heat I was getting out of my torch, I decided I’d go for the whole kit-and-caboodle at once.   It took a while to get all the parts placed appropriately, with the end cap in place, AND the stay in place, but eventually, I got it, with lots of flux & solder.  Oh, and as an added bonus, I also remembered to orient the end cap bushings in the correct locations!  (That could have been a disaster waiting to happen! - where's my dunce cap emoji?  :Jester:)


Here we are after soldering.  Not too shabby.  Maybe a little crispy, but it seemed to come out OK.


And the front end.  Too much flux here – I’d put some on at the same time I did the cab end.  When I went to put the solder on this end, after I’d roasted the other side, the flux was all dry and crusty.  So I put some more on.  While it seemed to work – the additional flux probably wasn’t necessary.  I had a whole flux lake here!


After the ceremonial pickling and washing – and some filing way of some over zealous solder, it actually looks quite respectable.


The end was hard to clean with all the ledges and crevasses.  But way better than it started.  I may do a bit more work on this end, though, it may not matter too much since it’ll be behind the firebox  backsheet pretty soon.


The front end:


And an overall beauty shot for good measure.


All in all, I’m feeling quite good about it.

Clearly, I’m not done yet.  I have to make some plugs and then rig up a pump to do the hydrostatic testing.  Though on the plus side, I didn't notice any gusher leaks when I was washing it up!

However, that may be a few weeks out now.  But for a good reason.  I’ve gotten clearance to do my next garage overhaul.  I’m working on a cunning plan (as they say) to expand my shop.  I’m currently crammed into just over 1 bay of a 3 car garage.   My master plan is to clean out the other sided of the garage (the non-shop side), get rid of half of the stuff, clean up the rest and compress it into less space so that I get another half bay to play in :)

This is good for me because I’ll end up with more shop space.  And good for my wife because she’s interested in having the garage organized.  It’s a clear win-win!

So, while I plan out my pump, I’ll be overhauling the garage to make it less storage and more shop!

And that’s the news from Lake Wobegon,
Kim
« Last Edit: November 25, 2017, 03:53:52 PM by Kim »

Offline Flyboy Jim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #967 on: November 25, 2017, 04:03:18 AM »
Looks like a good step ahead Kim. I'm paying close attention since I have yet to solder up my fuel/coolant tank for my P & W build. Mine won't be silver solder, so should be much simpler.

Your workspace expansion will be fun to watch. Be sure and take some before and after pictures to post.

Jim
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"You can do small things on big machines, but you can do small things on small machines".

Offline Steamer5

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #968 on: November 25, 2017, 08:42:40 AM »
Hi Kim,
 The boiler is looking good! Well done!

Congratulations on the shop extension! Hope it all goes well, of course you will be suppling photos of the progress.....?

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #969 on: November 25, 2017, 03:55:24 PM »
Thanks Jim and Kerrin!

Sure, I'll be posting pictures of the shop re-work :)
Kim

Online Dave Otto

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #970 on: November 25, 2017, 05:10:50 PM »
Your boiler is coming along nicely Kim.


Dave

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #971 on: November 25, 2017, 05:55:46 PM »
It looks phenomenal to me Kim. Cleaned up really well too. Nicely done  :ThumbsUp:

Bill

Offline mal webber

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #972 on: November 25, 2017, 06:24:29 PM »
Nice work there Kim the boiler looks great

Online Kim

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #973 on: November 25, 2017, 08:16:51 PM »
Hi Dave, Bill, and Mal,
Thanks for stopping by and taking a look at my boiler.  Appreciate the kind comments!
Kim

Offline Roger B

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Re: Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)
« Reply #974 on: December 05, 2017, 11:35:04 AM »
Excellent work on the boiler  :praise2:  :praise2:
Best regards

Roger

 

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