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Thank you Zee, Bob, and Jim,Yes, I was quite pleased with the form tool!Jim, about heat treating, I'm hardly an expert, but the process I used is what I've learned from the good folks on this forum! If you go back to post #24, I talk a bit about the process I used for heat treating and tempering. Dave, Jason and several other people give some really good advice there too (starting around post #21 or so).Here's a link to post #24 of this thread: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5264.msg101318.html#msg101318And in post #27, I've got a link to a 'color table' that maps the color of hot steel to the temperature. Here's the link again just to keep it all in one place: http://www.smex.net.au/reference/SteelColours02.phpIn summary, I heat the part with my torch to a nice bright "cherry red" for a while (I use the magnet trick if the part is small enough) then quench in water (that is, for W-1 anyway). Then I polish up the piece to a nice shiny silver so I can see the color change, then temper it by trying to slowly bring up the temp till I see the "light straw" color, and then let the part cool slowly.The heat treating isn't too bad. It's the tempering that I struggle with. I try to heat it up slowly, but it looks like nothing is happening, then all of a sudden it jumps past the straw color (low 400's Fahrenheit) to the purples and blues (mid 500's). But I'm getting better. I'm sure using a torch isn't as good as using a heat treating oven. But I don't have one of those. And I have a torch! Kim
Got the color able printed out. Your and other related posts were very helpful..........time to give it a go.I also enjoyed reading about your riveting journey.
I'm having a blast, even if I'm moving at a glaciers pace.