Steam Tractor 3/4" (Rudy K)

[Kim]

A bit faster then vinegar is citric acid a lot safer then muriatic or sulfuric. I switched over to Citric when my family was younger.

Interesting.  I've hears of using citric acid before.  Does it work on Steel as well as brass?

For the pickle, I too like the sparex2 for brass and copper. Its not good on steel, for that a cheap alternative is the muriatic acid from the home center, or even white vinegar.

I've got a bunch of steel soldering in my future and I hadn't realized that Sparex wasn't good for that.  What's the issue with using Sparex on steel?

Thanks,
Kim

[Kim]

Thanks Dave, Bill, Chris, and Gerald, for the comments!
Kim

[MJM460]

Really loving this build.  You are doing a great job of both the build and the documentation.

Muriatic acid is a is is another name for hydrochloride acid.  Hardware shops have it for cleaning bricks for example.  Usually comes pretty strong, and needs full acid handling precautions.  I use it diluted by about one part in ten parts water (careful doing the acid to water) then keep using it until it becomes too slow.

Sparex is sodium bisulphate based crystals which dissolve in water, the chemistry of that one is too far away from hydrocarbons for me, but it seems that it gives a quite strong acid, a bit stronger than citric acid, so I would still handle with care.  Probably a better choice if you can obtain it, but I have no experience using it.

I tried some citric acid, but was disappointed.  Perhaps I mixed it to weak, but it took forever to make any impression.  Perhaps it's my soldering technique, as others seem to recommend it.

I have only soldered brass, copper and bronze so far, so I don't know what's best on steel.  That adventure is still ahead of me.

It is worth searching for the material safety data sheets for good information on handling any chemicals you are not familiar with.  They tend to be a bit legalistic, but buried in amongst the lawyer speak, they really do contain good useful information.  Eye protection, chemical standard rubber gloves etc.  And if you do spill some, immediately wash it away with plenty of water from a running tap or hose.  Keep washing for about ten minutes or longer if it gets on your skin.  Surprisingly effective for all sorts of acid or alkali burns.  But better not to spill it.

MJM460

[crueby]

A bit faster then vinegar is citric acid a lot safer then muriatic or sulfuric. I switched over to Citric when my family was younger.

Interesting.  I've hears of using citric acid before.  Does it work on Steel as well as brass?

For the pickle, I too like the sparex2 for brass and copper. Its not good on steel, for that a cheap alternative is the muriatic acid from the home center, or even white vinegar.

I've got a bunch of steel soldering in my future and I hadn't realized that Sparex wasn't good for that.  What's the issue with using Sparex on steel?

Thanks,
Kim

Sparex has two versions, one for brass/etc, one I think will work on steel. The brass one they don't recommend for steel, tends to plate coppery color onto it, and the steel dilutes it quickly somehow.

[Dave Otto]

Be careful using Muriatic or HCL acid indoors, the vapors will rust every piece of bare steel or cast iron in the vicinity. I keep a small bottle of brick cleaner on hand for small jobs; it is stored and used outside.

Dave

[Kim]

Thanks for all the excellent information MJM, Chris, and Dave.  I really appreciate it.  I do try and be as safe as possible with the machines, flames, fluxes, metals and all he hazards of our chosen hobby, including paints and chemicals.  I went with the Sparex because i read it was much safer than other options.  HCL is scary stuff, not sure I want to mess around with that too much.  I'll do some more research.

If I can use something less caustic in exchange for a little time, that might be a good trade off for me.

Kim

[crueby]

Thanks for all the excellent information MJM, Chris, and Dave.  I really appreciate it.  I do try and be as safe as possible with the machines, flames, fluxes, metals and all he hazards of our chosen hobby, including paints and chemicals.  I went with the Sparex because i read it was much safer than other options.  HCL is scary stuff, not sure I want to mess around with that too much.  I'll do some more research.

If I can use something less caustic in exchange for a little time, that might be a good trade off for me.

Kim

[steamboatmodel]

Sparex is good I went with Citric Acid because 30 years back I was starting a family and it seamed the safest, plus I could get it very cheep. I do have and use Sparex now too.
Gerald.

[10KPete]

Well, Sparex sounds like something I should try.

OK.... I can find the #2, for copper, etc. all over the place but I cannot find any #1 for iron/steel...

Any hints where to find it?'

Thanks,
Pete

[crueby]

Well, Sparex sounds like something I should try.

OK.... I can find the #2, for copper, etc. all over the place but I cannot find any #1 for iron/steel...

Any hints where to find it?'

Thanks,
Pete

Hardly anyone seems to carry the nbr 1, even the places the maker (krohn) lists. This is the only place I know of


http://www.metalliferous.com/mobile/Sparex_Pickel/products/847/

I have used nbr 2 a lot, never tried the sparex 1.

[Kim]

As promised, this week’s update is all about the canopy.

The canopy was made out of wood.  I used what I had at hand.  Some 1/16” aircraft plywood, some 1/2" Poplar, and a few pieces of hobby store bass wood strips.

To start with, I made the ribs for the canopy.  Or maybe they are rafters? Or roof beams?  Not exactly sure what to call them, so I’ll call them ribs.

There are 8 of them, 1/8” wide, 1/2" tall, and 5” long.  For this, I ripped a couple of 1/8” wide strips of the edge of a 1/2" piece of poplar.  To do this, I used my Byrnes Saw. It very accurate and worked wonderfully for this.  Made very short work of cutting the strips.


Next, I cut the strips into 5” lengths then double sticky taped the pile of them together, took that to the mill and milled an angle on one side .


After that, I flipped it around and did the other side.  Here’s the result:


Next was to separate the 8 individual ribs.


I cut two pieces of 1/16” plywood for the top of the awning.  These were 10.5” long by ~2 5/8” wide.  I cut them just a bit wider than needed and planned to sand them flush when the canopy was complete.  I also sanded a bit of an angle along one of the long edges of each panel so that they would meet better in the middle at the ridge. I did this by hand – it didn't take much.

Then I drew the lines where I wanted the ribs to go, and glued them on with CA:


Here’s all the ribs attached to one side of the canopy top.


Then I glued the other side of the top on.


After this, I used some 1/16”x1/8” basswood strips along each long edge of the canopy, then cut and glued in a few cross pieces. These cross pieces will be drilled to accept the canopy supports.


And believe it or not, that was the whole weekend of shop sessions for me.

Thanks,
Kim

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Hello Kim,

Lots of time can be spent on these small details to have them turn out right.

Have a great day,
Thomas

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Really nice wood work Kim. Looks like you have it covered    Couldn’t resist.

Whiskey

[Don1966]

Very nice Brown work Kim! 


 
Don

[Kim]

Thanks Thomas, Eric, and Don,
Appreciate the comments, as always!
Kim