Author Topic: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)  (Read 40184 times)

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #630 on: March 28, 2020, 11:29:26 PM »
Looks great Kim!

Dave

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #631 on: March 29, 2020, 03:13:14 AM »
and yes, I double-checked before sawing!).

Sigh. Just what I needed. A reminder. I trimmed two parts today only to discover I had read the dimension between holes rather than the outer dimension.
I don't think double-checking works for me. I'm not sure triple-checking is enough.

Great thread. As I said before, this will be a reference for other builders.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #632 on: March 29, 2020, 05:33:56 AM »
and yes, I double-checked before sawing!).
Sigh. Just what I needed. A reminder. I trimmed two parts today only to discover I had read the dimension between holes rather than the outer dimension.
I don't think double-checking works for me. I'm not sure triple-checking is enough.
Yes, I remembered to check THIS time - you know how many times I've done it backwards because I didn't remember to check?  Well, I don't.  Because it's such an embarrassingly large number that not only do I NOT want to remember, my subconscious actively works to keep me from remembering so that I won't get overly discouraged.  But if you want to know, read back through my builds and count the number of times.  Then multiply by 3.  Because sometimes I don't even mention it because its so embarrassing!

For example, just today, when I was drilling holes in the manhole flange, I carefully dialed everything in, then drilled the holes at the EXACT right spot.  But you know what?  its at a 15 degree angle!  And when I drilled them in the manhole plate, it was flat.  That made all the holes off by about 0.022" (Yes, I did the trig to figure it out).  So I went and widened the holes so they'd fit (using a 1/16" mill).  And guess what?  I made them farther apart - but they should have been 22 thou closer together!  So I did it one more time.  By this time, my tidy, carefully measured mounting holes were more like slots.  But it works.  And the screw heads MOSTLY cover up the oversized holes.  You can still see it if you look.  But I didn't point it out because I'd made such a point of saying (i my previous post) that as long as I use the DRO, my holes line up.  Which they would, if the operator didn't screw up!  (stupid operator).

Anyway, long story to prove my point.  So don't get too down on yourself, Zee.  There are others of us out here that sometimes remember to check, and double check. But then often forget to double check. And sometimes it accidentally works out OK. But most of the time, you find a way to work around it, or you start over.  At least, that's what I find.  I just take it as part of doing the work. I keep hoping I'll screw up less as I get more experience.  But I think its that I'm picking up more ways to 'make it work' when I screw up.

Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #633 on: March 29, 2020, 05:35:11 AM »
Thank you Dave!   :)
Kim

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #634 on: March 30, 2020, 05:00:31 PM »
Chapter 6.3 – Manhole Cover

Yesterday’s shop time (brought to you by the Covid19 sequester) was spent making the Manhole Cover.

But first, I needed to even up and level the top of the manhole.  I want the top of the manhole to be parallel to the base of the tank car.  So I clamped the whole tank onto the mill and shaved a few thou off the top of the manhole.  The only trouble here was that while things were clamped well, the manhole itself is kind of suspended out in the middle of the tank, only supported by the sheet brass.  This made it chatter quite a bit.  And in chattering, it loosened the screws holding the manhole plate in place allowing it to raise up during one of the milling passes. After discovering this, I tightened things up again and did another pass to even things out again.  Other than being a few thou shorter than spec’d, nobody will be any the wiser.


Now for the manhole cover.   This was cut from 1/16” brass sheet.  It started as a square with the corners cut off (no pic).  I then used locktite to attach it to the end of a piece of 1” steel.  After the Locktite had set, I put it in the lathe and turned it to the specified diameter.


To help make sure Locktite didn’t let go while turning, I used the tail stock to hold a steel plug against the part.  You can see the steel plug in the above picture.  Below, you can see it removed and see the Manhole Cover turned to size.


Leaving the part glued to the Mandrel, I transferred it into the square collet block and held that in the vice in the mill.  Here I cut a short flat on one side of the cover:


Then drilled holes for the hinge and the handle.


I bent a length of 0.080” brass wire to shape for the handle:


Kozo says you can press fit or use soft solder.  But I wanted to use silver solder to attach the handle.  So I did.  Here’s the pre-solder shot:


And after soldering:


Then with some clean-up, the Manhole Cover is complete.


The hinge will be next up.

Thank you for stopping by!
Kim

Offline crueby

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #635 on: March 30, 2020, 05:33:01 PM »
Nice! Your shop elves will appreciate having a new cave to hide in...


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline Kim

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Re: Pennsylvania A3 Switcher (Kozo)
« Reply #636 on: March 30, 2020, 06:17:57 PM »
Yeah, and this cave has a door!  Pretty up-town, don't you think?  :Lol:

Kim