Author Topic: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build  (Read 16587 times)

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #30 on: June 07, 2015, 05:56:47 PM »
I'll cover a few of the odd remaining castings in this update.

First off is the silencer (muffler) which comes as two aluminium castings. The top one was lightly held in the softjaws while the edge and outer face was turned. I just did the curve freehand and finished with files then a Roloc disc in a cordless drill.



It could then be turned around and the inner face brought back to give a 1/8" thickness.



The other half was tackled in the same way and a 3/8" BSP thread cut for the exhaust pipe. Three small spacers and some nuts and bolts complete the silencer.



I had a bit of a heart stopping moment when I compared the push rod carrier to the drawing as it seemed to be a bit on the short side :-[



Luckily it seems to be a drawing error and the supplied contact spring that mounts on the end was also shorter than shown.



This was a bit of a job to hold but with a few bits of packing here and there I got it done.





The contact has to be isolated from the bracket so a piece of Corian was machined up. I did a spare while I was at it.



Then cut them off from the block. A small top hat bush is also needed to insulate the screw that passes through all these parts.



The Governor arm was another of those hard to hold items, just a few shrfaces to be machines and a couple of holes drilled.





A small piece of gauge plate (ground flat stock) is supplied for the two halves of the latch, one is drilled and CSK the other slotted to give some adjustment.





The pushrod that activates the exhaust valve screws into this casting



And the slotted half of the latch into these holes.



Thats about all the major machining done and this is what the bits all look like when put together.





J

Offline Don1966

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #31 on: June 07, 2015, 06:21:36 PM »
Still following your superb work Jason................. :ThumbsUp:

 :popcorn:
Don

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #32 on: June 07, 2015, 07:33:31 PM »
Hi Jason, thanks for showing the progress.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #33 on: June 07, 2015, 07:52:39 PM »
Hi Jason

Very nice work as usual.

Dave

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #34 on: June 19, 2015, 08:22:46 PM »
The Conrod casting was skimmed on either side so I had a flat surface to hold it by while the two bolt holes were drilled and then a slitting saw was used to cut the big end in half.



The two sawn faces were then machined back to the scribed lines and a couple of temporary bolts fitted. There was just enough room to rest the casting on a pair of parallels to enable the holes to be drilled and reamed.



A quick change of setup and the little end was machined down to the finished width, taking equal amounts off both sides



That just about completes all the machining for the engine. The castings for the cart are all aluminium , the two that hold the rear axle just need two square holes for the coach bolts which were just done with a file after drilling out. And the main hole for the axle was done with drills and a 5/8" milling cutter to finish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Hit%20n%20Miss/Half%20Scale%20Gade/IMAG3644_zpsgzboarue.jpg

The front axle bolster needs two holes tapped 1/4x20 for pointed square head grub screws and another in the middle to take the bracing piece.



The swivel just needs cleaning up with a small central spigot left, this was done on teh rotary table as I could not swing the 13" long axle in the lathe.



The various steel parts are supplied cut to size so just need drilling and bending.



Finally for today a few shots of things going together.















With it all in one piece it would be rude of me not to give it a little fuel and see what happens when its wired upto one of S/S's ignitions


And another showing how the engine will bounce back against the compressing, starting with a quick flick of teh starting handle and a bit more of it running. Also better focus  :)


Offline tangler

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #35 on: June 19, 2015, 10:21:59 PM »
Terrific!

Looking forward to seeing it at Guildford.

Rod

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #36 on: June 20, 2015, 06:38:41 AM »
Interesting to see the  breaker point moving back and forwards too. A good sound of a nicely made engine.
Kind Regards
Achim

Online Jo

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #37 on: June 20, 2015, 08:44:39 AM »
It must be nearly time to give it back to Dave  :LittleDevil:.

I hope he is not going to tempt you with any more castings, you know they are not good for you :hellno:

Jo

P.S. The central spigot on the axle could have also been done using an automatic facing head to avoid all handle winding  ;)
Usus est optimum magister

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #38 on: June 20, 2015, 09:24:03 AM »


P.S. The central spigot on the axle could have also been done using an automatic facing head to avoid all handle winding  ;)

Cordless screwdriver to turn the table had it done faster than you could set up the stops on a facing head.  :LittleDevil:

Not sure what Dave will get in his suitcase on his way back from Coolsprings show :-\

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #39 on: June 27, 2015, 08:16:25 PM »
One of the features of the Gade is the knife switch that is on the side of the battery box.



I did quite a bit of searching to try and find something suitable with no joy so decided to see what I could come up with. A few bits and bobs were assembled - 3/16 and 20swg brass, 5BA roundhead and No 4 CSk woodscrews and a sample piece of Corian, I thought the coffee bean colour was a good match to Bakalite.



A piece of Corian was cut off with the woodcutting bandsaw, the 4tpi blade making light work of it.



The sawn face was then finished with a flycutter which gave a very good finish



The only downside being the fine swarf that is attracted to anything



Being plastic my usual electronic edge finder would not work but it was easy enough to hold a 10-20-40 block against the side and use that to touch against.



A couple of pockets were then milled to locate the brass contact blocks into.



Followed by a pair of CSK mounting holes, two clearance holes for the wire screws and a dimple to clear a rivit.



The back face was counterbored to take some splined nuts for the wire connecting screws.



The splined nuts were just a piece of 1/4" brass with a straight knurl that were then drilled and tapped 5BA before being parted off.



These were then just pressed into the counterbored holes using the vice.



A strip of 3/16" square brass was machined up from the larger flat bar that I had and a couple of steps machined so they would sit in the pockets.



Then drilled clearance for the screws and one for the pivot rivit.



The final thing before cutting off from the parent bar was to cut slots for the knife to fit into.



Talking of which, the knife was just a strip of brass cut from a scrap of 20swg sheet which was held in a small vice while the other end was held in a toolmakers clamp and a 90degree twist added







The final job was to fit the knife to the contact block with a copper rivit as the pivot, the inside is hidden so did not need a full snap head forming, just enough to stop the rivit falling out and to make the knife firm enough to stay in the closed position while the engine is running.



A couple of shots of the finished parts.







The Gade also uses quite a long hasp and staple to secure the battery box lid, again nothing to be found so a scrap of steel sheet and rivit were knocked about until they looked the part.



I quite enjoyed doing the hinge part of the hasp so thought I may as well do the matching hinges while I was at it. Just thin steel formed around a bit of 1/16" rod and then milled out to form the knuckles.



A bit of satin black paint tidied them up ready to be fitted





Last bit to make was a starting handle



Thats about it for tonight next time I'll splash a bit of paint on it all.

J

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #40 on: June 28, 2015, 01:24:57 AM »
Nicely done Jason!

The details really make the model and you have done an amazing job of capturing them in the Gade project.

Dave

Offline Kim

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #41 on: June 28, 2015, 03:08:23 PM »
Very slick work there Jason!
Kim

Offline Roger B

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #42 on: June 29, 2015, 08:05:55 PM »
Very smooth runner (for a hit and miss  :):ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I do like all the little details  :praise2: .
Best regards

Roger

Offline Don1966

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #43 on: June 30, 2015, 12:05:33 AM »
Just beautiful Jason, and love the frabicated switch nice touch to an already excellent built. .........I like............. :praise2:

Don

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Another Red One. AKA 1/2 Scale Gade Build
« Reply #44 on: July 11, 2015, 08:47:32 PM »
Before talking about prep and paint I'll repost a couple of the photos of the castings.

The main base casting has some pitting and also those nasty Dymo lables where the pattern number has reproduced on the finished casting.



Flywheels had pitting to the side of the rims and counterweight



And the cylinder had some really bad mould shift



The first thing I do is take a Dremel with a grinding bit and run that over the whole surface  which removes any raised "grains" from the casting sand, I also take off parting lines and excess metal where the sand mould has been damaged and the resulting hole filled with metal.

The governor bracket shows the resulting surface quite well, the "bright" rectangle in the foreground was a Dymo lable imprint



Here you can see on the flywheel and main base casting how all the high spots have been removed, what is left of the red primer is in the dips and hollows.



The cylinder fins needed a bit more than the Dremel could muster so I used a 4.5" angle grinder and grinding disk to remove half the high area from each side of the fin, any more and they would be too thin



After a wipe down with acetone I applied some Upol body filler (Bondo) to the main parts, on the cylinder fins I use JB Weld as it can take a bit more heat than the bondo.



After an hour or so to harden it was out with the 120grit to remove all the excess filler, a couple of areas showed as needing a second application which they got before a second rub down.





After another wipe with acetone I applied a "filler primer" this showed up a couple of minor blemishes which were filled with knifing putty



When that had set it was all rubbed down with 180 grit



I then applied a couple of coats of grey primer with a quick rub with 320g between coats, as you can see things are looking a lot smoother than the original cast surface but there are still a few undulations which I think you want with a casting otherwise it starts to look like a barstock engine.







Once happy with the primer the colour coats can be applied and finally finished with a clear gloss fuelproof lacquer.



When the paint is dry I will put it together and see if it runs ;)

J