Author Topic: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco  (Read 12190 times)

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2015, 12:46:16 AM »
Managed to complete the bolts on the smokebox end. I  bent an allen wrench to create a special one to position and hold the bolts through the small ring.











Next I want to finish the bolts for the top of the steam dome then when that is done I will continue with the rest of the boiler bushings for the various fittings.

Mike
If you can imagine it you can build it

Offline peatoluser

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #31 on: April 26, 2015, 07:42:10 AM »
like the bent allen wrench.
still like looking at those bolted flanges. very professional.

peter

Offline Kim

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #32 on: April 26, 2015, 04:18:02 PM »
That is a LOT of bolts!
Kim

edit: fixed the spelling of bolts!  :-[
« Last Edit: April 26, 2015, 10:00:21 PM by krt2 »

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #33 on: April 26, 2015, 05:17:03 PM »
Peter, Kim, thanks for the comments.

Started the firebox insert late last evening and finished off the basic shaping this morning. the insert will allow me to fit the castable fire wall at the smokebox end of the firebox, and the structure for the fire bars. The way the loco looks at the firebox end is markedly different than the smokebox end, in that the large outer ring of bolts is not visible only the inner ring of the main flue tube which houses the firebox. To get a perfectly telescoping tube as the starting point I cut a length of the same diameter tube as the flue tube, and did the math for the inner and outer diameters of the tube in order for the piece to slide in I had to remove a section that was .472" along the length. I did that with the metal cut off saw, then annealed it and used a file for the final clean up the the correct slot width. just squeezing it shut with hand pressure until it fit snug.
Next I used a pipe clamp to hold it while I removed the unwanted section. The cross cut was again done with the cut off saw then the lengthwise cuts were done with the jewelers saw. 





A final clean up with an assortment of files



Ready to do the next steps which include soldering the flange ring and adding the grate and firewall.





Now for some domestic work, to keep the authorities happy.

Mike


If you can imagine it you can build it

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2015, 02:53:28 PM »
Continuing with the firebox plate, first I cut some 11 gauge copper sheet and  cut an 11 thou groove to register it to the tube part, then set it up in my square grinding vice that I made as an apprentice back in 1964.





This vice is great for laying out because I can just flip it and the work is square.



today I will drill the holes and fret out the firebox door and ash clean out holes, and silver solder it together.

Mike
If you can imagine it you can build it

Offline peatoluser

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2015, 03:21:57 PM »
At some point in the near future I have couple of condenser flanges to mark out and drill, and I was wondering how best to go about marking them out...and then I read your latest up date...and I have  one of those  vices... just never thought about using it like that!
once again, thanks for posting

peter

Offline joe d

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #36 on: April 27, 2015, 03:43:50 PM »
Mike

Still following along, this is just getting better and better.  Looking forward to more!

Joe

Offline Roger B

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #37 on: April 27, 2015, 07:33:32 PM »
Still following along and enjoying  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Best regards

Roger

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #38 on: April 28, 2015, 06:12:19 AM »
Peter, Joe, Roger thanks for your kind remarks.

Used the rotary table to drill the holes.



Next the flange plate was silver soldered to the inner tray.



Need to make another 30 nuts and bolts.



Cut out the end plate, At first I was looking for a piece of copper sheet the right thickness and then realized that it did not need to be copper, so cut it out of a sheet of brass.



Mike
If you can imagine it you can build it

Online Dan Rowe

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #39 on: April 28, 2015, 01:57:56 PM »
Wow Mike, that sure is a lot of bolts and that really makes it look good. That is some nice progress on this build.

Dan
ShaylocoDan

Offline wagnmkr

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #40 on: April 28, 2015, 02:18:59 PM »
Another excellent project to watch. I have pulled up a chair.

Tom
I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sown up all wrong!

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #41 on: April 28, 2015, 04:05:19 PM »
I have to agree with Tom, this has been fun to watch and your progress is amazing. You must be seeing nuts and bolts in your sleep now though... :lolb:

Bill

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #42 on: April 29, 2015, 07:48:16 AM »
Thanks for following along .

It was a long day, first laying out and drilling the regulator bushing holes, the tricky part is that they needed to be matched at each end.  Had i had my wits about me when I drilled the flanges and plates for the bolt holes, instead of ganging them all together they were done piecemeal. I could have registered it all as the flanges were soldered.

Be that as it may, thing are now taking longer.

the firebox end regulator bushing is longer so that it protrudes just enough to meet the outside surface. the flange on the brass will be bolted and will act as a stuffing box to block steam. There will be a slightly different set up at the smokebox end both handles are connected to the long shaft, there will be a lever fitted in the area of the steam dome to open and close the valve at the top of the dome collector pipe.

I also had to clean up the steam dome inside where the boiler tube and the steam dome intersect in order to not foul the regulator shaft. It would have so much easier to shape before soldering into the boiler tube.

I had trouble getting enough heat with the propane torch so switched to the air acetylene one but ended up grabbing the propane one as well it was when soldering the flange at the smokebox end when the plate was fixed to the boiler. After it cooled down I cleaned it took it off the boiler and reheated just the plate and flange , much easier without all that heat sink.

The other end I worked with the flue tube plate without the boiler connected straight away, it worked right away.

Mike

 
If you can imagine it you can build it

Offline Johnb

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #43 on: April 30, 2015, 09:14:01 PM »
Very interesting. Thanks for all the pics. Makes a lot more sense.
John Browning. Member of Ickenham and District SME

Offline mike mott

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Re: Dickie a Crew works Shunting Loco
« Reply #44 on: May 02, 2015, 05:52:01 AM »
Today i fitted the cross tubes in the flue there are 8 tubes slanted at 30 degrees four left and four right. the drilling was a bit of a Heath Robinson type set up with wood clamps as well as the milling vice.



the tubes were soldered in two session so that I worked on the the left and then the right sides with the flue turned so that the tubes were on the top to help with the flow of the solder.



Another eccentric looking clamp job to drill out for the exhausts ports to the blast nozzle the port goes right through the boiler and so I needed to ensure that the holes were lined up properly. I drilled it with a lot of small incremental size increases up to 3/8"



The opposite end was more to prevent any wobbling. All of the drill bits were honed on the front face of the cutting edge with a micro flat to prevent the copper from getting snatched by the drill.

The brass back plate was also drilled out for the two valves pipes with bushes soldered to the copper and extending out to the surface of the back plate. The works drawing is very poor in this area and there are no photographs that I know of of the firebox end of the loco. I suspect that the large flange was riveted and the flue was bolted on the outside, I think i will need to open up the hole in the brass plate and slide the brass plate up to the flange from the other side. I am at a loss as to how they accomplished tightening blind bolts on the original. The flue was evidently extracted from the firebox end. The way I have constructed it, it will work, because I have changed the boiler so that I can slide out the firebox. Overall it will look like the real loco when it is all assembled. 



The last shot shows the bushing in the flue. the distance between the two tubes at the bottom is .180" the bushing surface between the two tubes is 1/2 inch in diameter with a 5/16 hole through them both. The outer tube bushing and the inner tube bushing are not quite touching and there is a small bevel on each bushing so that when it is assembled an O ring fits between and as the flange plate is pulled to line up the two tubes the O ring gets squeezed and when the 5/16 exhaust nipple is inserted and locked with a nut on the inside and outside the O ring will be squeezed just a bit more providing a good seal. (that is the plan and I'm sticking to it)



The next bushes will be for the sight glass which is at the smokebox end and the odd thing is that the smokebox end was not used and the throttle lever was removed early in the working life. also the feedwater pipe from the pump at the right rear side from the drivers position. running off a connecting rod from the wheels. The water tanks were connected via a pipe running under the axles with the connection to the bottom of the boiler at the smokebox end.
The odd thing about this engine is that there does not seem to be a place for carrying coal on the loco so I am assuming it was carried on one of the flat wagons behind the driver, unlike the other locos at the crew works which had a hopper above the water tank.  Some of the plumbing for the steam and sight glass, pressure gauge, feed to the cylinders is still a bit of a mystery.  It certainly would have been easier to have embarked on building one of the Ramsbottom engines first because I have far more detailed information about them. 

Mike

     
If you can imagine it you can build it