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[quote author=crueby The test looked great!That was just the high pressure cylinder? Hi it was just the LP cylinder in fact as i have left out the HP valve to let the steam go through the HP exhaust port into the LP steam chest. I need to J B Weld the HP valve as i have done with the LP valve......so lots more "fitting" to do..............When i have adjusted the HP valve i can reconnect everything and put the engine back on the bed and trying it again under steam .....Thanks for the interestWilly
Hi This is the maquette i made to work out the internals in Perspex. The green is the inlet ports and the red is the exhaust transfer port from the HP to the LP steam chest. the exhaust 'orange' from the LP cylinder then goes down both sides of the casting to the condenser. This engine has everything tucked away out of sight which makes for a very neat and unclutered engine block. A lot of the later compound engines look quite clumsy with all the external pipes and things, rather like an old fashioned 20's engine compared to a modern "blown" type that comleatly fills the engine compartment.I have also used a different piece of reinforced clear hose rather than the black/yellow hose that works ok....
Hey Willy,Listen, I've been around steam all my life....it's a wonderful Terrible thing....it's amazing how much power and beauty it possess.It also amazing how badly it can hurt you. Braided poly water line isn't steam rated..even at 30 psi from that little pot boiler, it's going to hurt you.I'm sure you have far more experience than others, but that can be problem for the newbe who doesn't know any better...What's worse...is making it safe in the first place isn't any more difficult. At the least..with 30psi max..put some silicone line on, such as is used on the Midwest boiler kits readily available at the hobby shops. it's sold as fuel line and will stand up to the temperature much betterBetter still, put some copper tube in. It's not that much of a imposition, and it sets the proper example on a forum that condones safety first.I leave that to you.steamerModerator.
Thanks for that and I shall investigate alternative types of hose pipe over here, it was a temporary job that i bought on sunday when all the other shops were closed. I know this is no excuse and shall bear the safety aspects in mind in future.
Suppliers like these guys do have hose that is meant for steam use, at least at the pressures that the G guage live steam locos use. Pricey for long lengths, but usually we only need a short piece.
Quote from: steam guy willy on December 21, 2016, 02:06:19 AMThanks for that and I shall investigate alternative types of hose pipe over here, it was a temporary job that i bought on sunday when all the other shops were closed. I know this is no excuse and shall bear the safety aspects in mind in future."Hose pipe" is not safe for transferring steam: Flexible high pressure/temperature couplings suitable for pressurised steam are a highly specialised and expensive item that will not be common to come by - you will have to go to an industrial supplier. In contrast (non seamed) copper tube is easy to come by, cheap and suitable for transferring high pressure super heated steam. Do not use water pipe for steam pipe it is not designed to transfer the high temperature and pressures found in steam applications. Remember: When we test a boiler for safety not only the boiler is pressured tested but also all of its fittings and steam pipes. This not only for your safety but also for the safety of those you love and everyone else. Treat steam with respect - it doesn't care what it does to you. JoHi Jo ,thanks for this i will repost this so other people will see it