Hemingway quick set Keats

[Don1966]

Nice work Roger, but what kept the plate in the V block? It looks like it's just sitting in there. Am I missing something.

 
Don

[steamer]

He put a couple of pins in the block and clamped down on the pin hanging out.

Dave

[Roger B]

Thanks Dave. There is actually a length of 5mm silver steel (drill rod) passed right through and clamped with a strap at both ends. I was quite proud that having marked and drilled (5mm) both ends separately the silver steel went in with just finger pressure.

I tested the V with one of my V blocks and a DTI. As I slid the block up and down the V and measured inside and out the variation was less than 0.02mm 

I then cut the locating grooves with an 8mm end mill so I could open them up to 3/8" to match the bar. The one in the base stayed true, but there was significant deflection in the end one, although less than my allowance so I could correct it.

Finally a lot of cleaning up 

[Roger B]

Started on the bridge clamp, it uses a piece of 1" x 1/2" BDMS so a bit of calculation was required. There is some drill/mill work then the rest is done on the lathe. The centre hole was supposed to be milled 1/2", but I think I can make it work with 12mm.

The saddle clamp is supplied with a piece of 1/4" BDMS for a 1/4" BSF thread. I will have to replace this with some 6mm rod. I do have a set of BA taps and dies but no "real" imperial ones.

[fumopuc]

Hi Roger, looking great, when may I send  the first  crankshaft for machining ?

[Roger B]

3-4 weeks, but remember I only have a 65mm centre height lathe 

[Roger B]

A bit more milling. First the blanks for the clamping nuts and then the clamping piece to protect the work piece from the clamping screw. As this is just a clamping piece I cut it in one position on the mill rather than using only the end of the end mill. As expected it was a little more than 90°, but that is not important. Back to lathe mode for the next steps.

[Roger B]

I finished off the two clamping nuts in the lathe. I decided to use the Hobbymat collet chuck as it has a 1/2" collet and leave the ER chuck on the mill.

The next step was to make an M10 stub mandrel and finish off the bridge clamp. I had a choice of M10 dies, a normal (to me) Volkel one and one I got in my lucky dip a couple of weeks ago. This has a barrel profile and some odd slots. Does anyone recognise the type. I have them in various sizes between M1 and M14 and the OD is generally smaller than I am used to.

I am taking turning the bridge clamp fairly slowly due to the interrupted cut and the potential for collisions.

[Roger B]

I decided that it would be easier to turn the parallel part of the bridge clamp first and then complete the taper. The instructions suggest turning the clamp around on the stub mandrel to turn the outside, but that would mean the compound slide handle being at the back of the lathe. Not so convenient  so I did it this way.

All the parts fit together so far  but there is a lot of finishing detail to go.

I found some 6mm rod in the local DIY supermarket, but only in 2m lengths. Not so convenient as my workshop is only 2m wide  Luckily the walls are slatted 

[Don1966]

Well it looks great to me Roger. That was an interesting project and I have often looked at it on there web site. Nice job...........

 
Don

[Roger B]

Thanks for the comments Don. I'm not quite there yet. I chose this project as a means of further overloading my small lathe. I think that this version of the Keats will allow me to finish the crankshaft and cylinder head for my 25cc horizontal engine better than my other options.

I made a makeshift bending jig for the clamp rod for the saddle clamp. My new vice has a convenient V groove. I got the bending allowance a bit wrong on the first version but I think that the second one will work (I still have enough material for 8 more tries  ).

Next I have to decide whether to cut the radius in the saddle clamp on the lathe or with the boring head in the mill? I'm tending towards the lathe at present.

[fumopuc]

3-4 weeks, but remember I only have a 65mm centre height lathe 

So Roger, no worries, I will  make a soldered crankshaft for my Snow engine.
Your set up on the face plate looks perfect.

[Coopertje]

Hello Roger,

I have been following along your build quietly, very nice work you do 

What I do not see yet is the purpose of this tool, what is the advantage over for example using a 4 jaw chuck 

Thank you, regards Jeroen

[Roger B]

Thank you Achim 

Jeroen, Thank you for the comments. There are a couple of posts on the forum regarding the benefits of the Keats angle plate. I have made this one to help with several things especially considering my small (Hobbymat) lathe.

1) I can hold and turn a 25 mm stroke crankshaft in a 65mm centre height lathe. I can't do this in an 80mm 4 jaw chuck.

2) I can hold a 50mm diameter cylinder head offset to drill, bore and face the valve guides passages and seats. Once again difficult with an 80mm chuck.

3) I feel more comfortable holding a 75mm long 50mm diameter cylinder in the V of the Keats rather than overhanging from a small chuck.

This particular version of the 'Keats' makes setting offsets easier, it's also the only one that will fit on my lathe.

If you have space for bigger machines or make engines of a suitable size for your machines you may not need one. I stretch everything to it's limits so it suits me.

I hope this explanation helps. If not please ask more questions.

[Coopertje]

Thank you for your explanation Roger, makes sense to me now. I am not used to work with that small machines, the biggest 3 jaw chuck I have is 200mm and 160mm for the 4 jaw one. I guess thats why I never "missed" this kind of device to extent the range of the lathe.

I really admire your patience to do your projects on the smaller size machines, I think I would not have the patience…..

Regards Jeroen