another Snow engine

[Roger B]

Splendid    (Just my 10 Cents worth to match the picture  )

[gldavison]

Excellent job on the Snow Achim. You have inspried me to get onto powder coating. I hope to do the tubing on my Snow. This brings up a question.
 
What temperature are you using to to cure the powder? The instructions I have use 400F degrees (204.4C) .  I would have thought soft solder would melt at that temp.

Gary

[fumopuc]

Hi Gary, thanks for the compliment.
The oven temperature is always adjusted to 180° C.
For checking the right temperature I am using a cheap Chinese Laser Pyrometer. So I am able to measure the temperature of the part during the process. Between 160°C and 180 °C is always a good range  to burn it into the surface. Melting of the powder starts already at around 100°C to 120°C.
For the soft soldering I have used some tin-solder with 220°C melting point, so I am out of the critical range.
If you are not sure with your soft solder, try it with only, i.e. 150°C, to get the powder on a sample part with your used soft solder.

[fumopuc]

Roger, Don thanks for the always kind comments.
At the moment I am just fiddling around and making some bits and pieces for the fuel tank.
Mostly in accordance with the drawings, only the baseplate is a little bit different.
Time to train my CNC skills again a bit.
At the moment I am missing some Lucite/Plexiglass for the one side cover of the tank, but it is ordered.

[fumopuc]

Hi everybody. Fuel tank, next step. A fuel nipple was made, some powder coating, and an emergency fuel drip pan. I had to do something, what covers the two ugly studs and nuts, which fitted the base plate to the wooden base.
Still missing the coating at the drip pan, the fuel filler cap and the final assembly of everything.

[vcutajar]

Hi Achim

Still following your progress and missing my build.

That hex block in the chuck in your first photo reminded me that I need to get something like that whilst here in the UK.  I believe there is a set with a hex and square block.  Now if I can just remember what they are called!

Vince

[fumopuc]

Hi Vince, may be this will guide you.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures
Concernig missing your build, unfortunately I can't help.

[vcutajar]

Thanks Achim for the link. Those are the ones.

Vince

[Roger B]

Some more nice looking details as ever    Still following along 

[Don1966]

Achim the tank came out great. What was it made of and did you loctite both end and the inlet and outlet?

Don

[b.lindsey]

Beautiful work as always Achim. The tank turned out very well!!

Bill

[fumopuc]

Achim the tank came out great. What was it made of and did you loctite both end and the inlet and outlet?

Don

Hi Roger, Don and Bill thanks for the friendly words.
Don, the tank is made from a 40x2 mm aluminum tube, was available in my scrap box.
To glue everythink together a 2 component epoxy glue was used.
http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-plus-endfest-3002-k-epoxidharzkleber-1.html?cHash=af94212bcfe4015a4922aafc50591775&step=0
If it will be heated in the oven, 150°C, 10 minutes than it is connected in a very short time.
The fuel nipple and plexiglass cover was glued in place after powder coating, normal setting time at room temperature.

[fumopuc]

wood, tiling and electrical gremlins......
Hi everybody, after some gardening some further progress at the snow build.
First I have finished the drip pan under the fuel tank and the tank itself, now hopefully final assembled, the pressure test was fine.
I didnīt forgot the breather hole in the filler cap. It has eaten the half of my 1mm drill bit and I had to sacrifice on side of a 2mm centre drill to get it out again.
I have drilled from the other side with the centre drill until I could feel a light resistance, than I took the rest of the broken 1mm drill bit and used it as a pin to kick the broken rest out. See picture 01.

Next step, a wooden cover for the water tank. I thought in reality it is not good, that the tank has no cover. On the other side it needs some surface to cool the water down. So I have made a cover on some beams, that there is still the possibility of air flow between water surface and cover. Picture 02 and 03.

All additional sub bases are done, so I could start with the final tiling (glueing). Nearly everything is done, with the exception of the area with my temporary belt drive and electrical motor. The earlier made jig for the tiling was a big help to collect some small pieces and make new bigger customised ones.The grouting will be done later. Pictures 05, 06, 07, 08.

Next on my schedule, a final check of the modified CDI sytem. Unfortunately it failed, no sparks any more.
After playing around and trying different adjustments, I have had a cup of coffee and was thinking that may be I have killed the hall sensor for any reason.
Than if tried to remember what I have changed since last Christmas, when the system was running perfect in the first test.
The major change was the red LED which I have put into the power circle behind the switch, which are indicating that power is switched on. This was done by an Y cable with the LED and a resistor. I took it of, going back to the original layout from S/S Machine & Engineering and the sparks have been back.
I didnīt understand why, so I have sent a mail to Roy, may be he will find the time to explain me the reason, or may be somebody of you guys has any idea what I could have done wrong with the LED in the power circle. Picture 09.
Finally I have done all the surroundings now, so I can start with the cylinder unit.

[mike mott]

Achim, the tiles look really neat as does the rest of the model.

Mike

[Dave Otto]

Hi Achim

I'm still following along with your beautiful work on your Snow engine. It is interesting to see the parts finished as you go; it seems that most people wait until the end (me included) to do the finish work on their models.

Dave