another Snow engine

[Ye-Ole Steam Dude]

Looking forward to a long video of this engine running.

[vcutajar]

That looks promising Achim. 

Vince

[Roger B]

Excellent    That will keep you busy tomorrow   

[Kim]

All I can offer is encouragement, Achim, but I know you will figure it out!
It looks quite exciting, that's for sure!
Kim

[Dave Otto]

Congrats on the first pops Achim!
Looking forward to seeing more.

Dave

[kvom]

Won't be long now. 

[fumopuc]

Thanks everybody for the encouragement and the friendly comments. Shop time is rare but some further investigation could be done.
I could feel always some knocking in the crank drive, so I have checked the ignition timing again.
And there was already a failure detected. Target was 8° pre-ignition and my adjustment was done to 18°.
The reason was a wrong made temporary mark at my self made angle disc.
All this is fixed now, but a new issue appeared, the fly wheel get loose again.
It started slowly, but than oil or grease has increased the loosening process, it behaves now like a fidget spinner.
I have to fix this first now.

[Kim]

This is an expensive fidget spinner Achim! 
Those flywheels give people real problems don't they?
Maybe you just need to put a key in to hold it in place?
Kim

[b.lindsey]

At least you are getting close Achim. I feel sure you will have it running very soon.

Bill

[fumopuc]

Hi Bill thanks, I will try to do my best.


Kim, I have had something like your proposal in my mind also.


Here are some quick sketches, what is the opinion of the Snow engine experts to this idea ?
All comments are appreciated.

[crueby]

On my Corliss Twin build I used a taper-lock hub, using the design that Chuck Fellows had posted. You can see it made in my Corliss build, posts 263 and 264. I wish I could find the post that Chuck did about them but at least I had saved off the contents with the diagram, here it is:

[fumopuc]

Hi Chris, the design you have shown will clamp much better than the design used in the drawings of the Snow engine.
Your design is much thinner in the taped area so a deformation and clamping will be easier possible.
The taper of the Snow engine is over 30 mm at the big end, the shaft is only 12 mm.
So a lot of force ist necesseray to squeeze it together with the four 4 mm bolts pulling the taper.
May be I will use some Loctite 648 to fix the taper at the shaft and than the fly wheel can be bolted against the taper.
This may be could be the easiest repair solution in this case.

[Roger B]

Hi Achim, what is the taper angle on the Snow design? Does the slit in the taper bushing go through to the other side to give more flexibility? I used quite a shallow angle on the bush for my two stoke diesel, it has held so far 

You could always cheat and buy one of these  :

http://www.sigerist.ch/spannzange-schraubenlos-edelstahl-1-4301/?lang=en

Keep up the good work     

[fumopuc]

Hi Achim, what is the taper angle on the Snow design? Does the slit in the taper bushing go through to the other side to give more flexibility? I used quite a shallow angle on the bush for my two stoke diesel, it has held so far 

You could always cheat and buy one of these  :

http://www.sigerist.ch/spannzange-schraubenlos-edelstahl-1-4301/?lang=en

Keep up the good work     

Hi Roger, thanks for your thoughts.
The angle is 5° and made in one set up at the lathe to both parts, fly wheel and taper.
But as mentioned earlier, it is difficult to get a proper clamping with this thick taper.
 

[Roger B]

Hi Achim,

I used a 3° angle on my bush (there is a PDF of the drawing on my last post). If you split the bush further as in this picture it may clamp better.