"Lina" (Baby gets a big sister)

[Mosey]

I bet that a bearing seized based on the progressive crunching sound as it failed over about 5 minutes running. I first thought it was the gearbox, but then realized that the motor and gearbox are connected only by a belt, and it's the motor that wont turn. I opened the gearbox anyway, and find it to be nicely packed with soft (Swiss) grease and working fine.
I guess I can't hurt anything by pulling the end plate off, so maybe I'll dive in. I have seen a post saying that these bearings are very tightly pressed in and difficult to replace. I am not equipped to pull and press them, so will need my buddy in the serious metal shop down the road.
I'll first see if the motor guys will do it for me, cause they must replace motor bearings regularly and know just what to do..
Or, if the machine shop across the street will do it for $$, but they tend to do little stuff as a favor and I don't like to be a freeloader.
Mosey

[Roger B]

Some motors with aluminium endplates with or without brass inserts require heating to correctly remove and replace the bearings. If the bearings are forced cold the tolerances can be lost.

[Mosey]

The end plate is not magnetic, and seems to be aluminum.
Mosey

[Dave Otto]

Hi Mosey

Most of the motors I have messed with have had the bearings pressed onto the shaft and are a light push fit into the housings. Some of the larger motors have the shaft end bearing retained by a plate that screws in place from the outside of the motor.

If it is an induction motor I wouldn’t be afraid to take it apart and have a look. If it is only a bad bearing it should be an easy task to replace it or them. I have a temp stick and use a small hot plate to heat the bearing. The bearing is set on a piece of round stock sized so it only contacts the inner race, when the temp stick indicates that it is ready the bearing is dropped into place. It is surprising how little heat is required to heat the bearing enough to slide on to the shaft.

We used to have a bearing heater at work but it was only used for the large bearings.

I would think that a pair of bearings shouldn't cost over $30.00 and if you can't find them locally there is always bearingsdirect.com or mcmastercarr.com.

Dave

[Stuart]

Don't forget when you put it back together only pack the new bearing half full any cover plates half full only

If you pack them full it will get very hot and ruin the bearings


Dave this a a Swiss machine so I bet the correct bearings will be nearer £300 than £30

If the motor is a face mount vertical look out for circlips

If the bearings have loose inner caps you need long studs to enable you to refit them

And do not forget to mark the end bells and stator to get them back as they are

I used to mark them IE idle end and DE drive end


 Have fun I do hope it's just bearing 95% certain it is as you say it did not release the magic smoke

Stuart

[Mosey]

I am reading and absorbing these fine and expert recommendations, steeling myself for an assault on this bugger. I will give it a go shortly, but keep the ideas coming.
Hope it goes well.
Thanks guys,
Mosey

[Mosey]

Confession is good for the soul I've heard.

So, here goes...I pulled the motor from it's mount and attempted to remove the front plate. No way without an impact driver as the screws were very tight. So I flipped it over and looked at the bottom end, where I observed a sheet metal screen and cap over the fan. I pulled the screen cap and, lo and behold, it had been dented and was in contact with the fan blades attached to the shaft. I straightened the screen, put it back together, and the shaft runs clean and smoothly. All fixed and back in business!
Phew, thanks guys. This motor will run another for 50 years I think.
Mosey (embarrassed)   

[Tennessee Whiskey]

I bet Tony Two Toes got his rope into it when he lowered it down the steps.

Cletus

[Dave Otto]

That's good news Mosey

Dave

[Mosey]

Yes, good news!
I don't doubt that it got bent during the move.
Oh boy, I get to make chips again, moving along on the Die Filer.
How's yours coming, Eric?
I learned a little about my machine in the process.
Mosey

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Glad you got it sorted. I'm in the heat of a full size resoration of a '66 Cyclone GT at the moment, but, I've been plotting and planning on the machining steps for the filer. Kinda OT for this thread, but, have you noticed the filer has a drill rod crank shaft riding in a mild steel bushing? I'm thinking something else should be used for the bushing, I.e. Brass or bronze. If you don't mind, maybe someone else will weigh in on this.

Cletus

[sshire]

 Oilite?

[Mosey]

Oil-impregnated brass here.
Mosey

[Roger B]

Glad you got it sorted   

[Stuart]

Glad you have it sorted

Stuart