Flathead V-8

[gbritnell]

I have just finished hours of burring, filing and sanding on the last two remaining pieces, the bellhousing and the timing cover. I was told by a friend of mine that it would be a shame to remove all the tool marks from the bellhousing for the fact that it showed all the machining steps to finish it but although he had a point it just wouldn't fit the rest of the engine. The hardest part was finishing the inside. I probably should have made the steps about half the increments that they were. Nevertheless we a lot of filing I got it smooth.
I wasn't until I viewed the pictures that I saw the layout bluing in a couple of the mounting hole counterbores.
gbritnell

[gbritnell]

The timing cover was quite a bit easier for the fact that it just wasn't as large as the bellhousing but it did have much smaller corners to get into.
gbritnell

[b.lindsey]

Beautiful George as always...but you really must do something about that speck of layout blue 

Bill

[Don1966]

Those came out great George and can I ask what did you used to get into those corners with?

Don

[sshire]

After having them at my right elbow and staring at them in amazement for 2 days at Cabin Fever, I'm officially blown away (I'm also sure there's a better UK term to add to my list)
As always, a spectacular result.

[fumopuc]

Speechless and still following along quietly.

[gbritnell]

This is my process for making the bearing inserts for the rods.

Over the years I have used a couple of different methods for making bearing inserts. One process was to machine a piece of bearing bronze rod halfway down and then soft solder a replacement piece to it. This would be set up on center then bored and turned. One problem with this method was that with thinner bearings sometimes the solder would break while turning the inserts so I opted for plan B.

I bored and turned the bearing bronze material to make individual sleeves. I then made up a small fixture consisting of a boss that was a couple of thousands smaller than the I.D. of the bearing, a flat on the top to accommodate a small finger clamp and relief on both sides just for clearance for the slitting saw. The bearing was slid onto the boss and clamped lightly in place. Using a .010 slitting saw I set it to cut right at center. Each bearing was cut this way. 

[gbritnell]

The next step was to locate a drilled hole at the center of the lower insert both axially and longitudinally. Using a discarded bearing insert I sawed it in half like I did for the other inserts only for this one I moved off center .005 to take up half the thickness of the saw blade. Using this piece I clamped it onto the fixture and indicated it horizontal. This would serve as a stop to keep the inserts from rotating while drilling. The shoulder of the fixture was then picked up and the centerline of the insert was established. I then set an insert in place and while holding it tightly against the shoulder I center drilled and drilled it. The reason for the hole is prevent the insert from spinning in the connecting rod. A small brass pin is pressed into the bottom center of the rod cap which fits into this hole.

[gbritnell]

The bearing is not a true full diameter as it's missing the .010 saw cut but with the greatest pressure on the bottom part of the insert both on the compression and power strokes that small gap won't affect the support of the rod to journal. I have used this method in the past with good results so I'm just repeating an easy way of making split inserts.
Even when the solder method is used once the solder is melted out of the joint there is still a minute gap, say .002-.003. Depending on how thick the solder was when the two halves were joined.
The only other way to make true inserts would be to make double the amount of bearing inserts and cut them in half with a .005 shift in the saw then discard the thinner pieces.
gbritnell

[gbritnell]

Hi Don,
In reply to your post #318 I have a very large assortment of burrs, both carbide and tungsten and they go from extremely small up to .125 with varying tip shapes. I also have a similar assortment of small mounted stones all on .125 shanks. I generally use the blue grade of stone which is a medium cut. I have a stick of waxy lubricant which I coat the stones with. This aids in both cutting and keeping the stones from clogging, especially when they are used on aluminum.
gbritnell

[tvoght]

Thanks for showing this simple and effective fixture. I always feel bad about not asking more questions, but the photographs and descriptions are so complete there's very little left to ask.

--Tim

[Tennessee Whiskey]

That's just too slick on the inserts, been wondering about them. Brittnel 77's . What was the last Ford engine to use babbitt inserts .

E

[Don1966]

Hi Don,
In reply to your post #318 I have a very large assortment of burrs, both carbide and tungsten and they go from extremely small up to .125 with varying tip shapes. I also have a similar assortment of small mounted stones all on .125 shanks. I generally use the blue grade of stone which is a medium cut. I have a stick of waxy lubricant which I coat the stones with. This aids in both cutting and keeping the stones from clogging, especially when they are used on aluminum.
gbritnell

Hi George and thanks for the reply and would it be to much trouble to show us a photo of the burrs and stones?

Thanks Don

[Roger B]

Magnificent work    Still following along, enjoying and learning     

[gbritnell]

This first response is for Don.
Here's the burrs and mounted stones I use for my detail work.
gbritnell