Author Topic: Flathead V-8  (Read 170863 times)

Offline Roger B

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #270 on: March 20, 2015, 07:25:30 PM »
I find making one piece hard enough  ::) I have great respect for those making multi cylinder engines  :praise2:

Still following and learning  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Best regards

Roger

Offline Hugh Currin

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #271 on: March 20, 2015, 11:18:59 PM »
The final operation with this setup was to flute the rods. Using a .125 end mill with a small corner radius each side of the rods were cut .040 deep.

George: Did you use a "bull head" cutter or grind the corner radius on this cutter? If ground did you do this "off hand"? What type of grinder did you use?

Thank you.

Hugh
Hugh

Offline Don1966

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #272 on: March 20, 2015, 11:27:02 PM »
Still with you George and thanks for these blow by blow photos of the connecting rods. Gives a good insite on how to go about it. Did I say great work................... :praise2:

Don

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #273 on: March 20, 2015, 11:33:25 PM »
The rods look awesome George.  If SoCal Customs or Speedway Motors ever sees this thread they are going to be courting you and your talents. 

E

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #274 on: March 21, 2015, 12:07:03 AM »
Still following along here too George, admiring every part and picture.

Bill

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #275 on: March 21, 2015, 01:23:31 AM »
Hi Hugh,
I hand ground the radius close then touched it up with a diamond stick. The radius is about .047. I use a headband magnifier for the delicate jobs.
gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline fumopuc

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #276 on: March 21, 2015, 04:59:35 AM »
Hi George, I am still following alonge and try to learn. Thanks for taking the time to show all these operations you need to get these beautiful part.
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline Hugh Currin

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #277 on: March 21, 2015, 02:37:03 PM »
Hi Hugh,
I hand ground the radius close then touched it up with a diamond stick. The radius is about .047. I use a headband magnifier for the delicate jobs.
gbritnell

Geroge: Thanks for the response and info. That's what I thought but wanted to hear for sure.

Great job on the build, and on the write-ups. Thanks for taking the time.

Hugh
Hugh

Offline petertha

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #278 on: March 21, 2015, 04:37:25 PM »
George, your setups are a gold mine. Can you elaborate on the RT / fixture plate pre-alignment aspect? If I understand the cutting operation, you need to have the plate both spindle center referenced + squared in order to mill the arc sweep? So when you say you picked up center, do you mean sink a pointed tool into the spot drill reference & swivel the plate about that axis until the machined edge is square to the RT flange or something? Otherwise I'm having trouble visualizing how to get alignment with indicators etc.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #279 on: March 22, 2015, 03:06:19 PM »
Hi Peter,
Here's the steps I do to set up and cut a radius.

I use R-8 end mill holders in my mill and the .50 one that I normally have in the spindle has about .0002 runout. (close enough) In a previous post I had mentioned that I use a sleeve to reduce down for using end mills with a .375 shank. This is so I don't have to keep changing holders. The sleeve I made when inserted into the .50 holder has about .0003 total runout. (close enough)

I made up a very snug fitting brass plug with a 30 degree taper on the end to match my center drills.

I indicate my rotary table until it's centered and then slide the fixture plate close to center. I then bring the brass plug down into the center drilled hole or the pilot hole for whatever piece I'm going to spin.

Usually if it's just for a radius on a part I will end it there but if it needs to be more accurate I will then indicate the hole and adjust the fixture.

I then put in my end mill and calculate the radius of the part plus the radius of the endmill and make my cut. Here again if it needs to be an accurate diameter I will stay a couple of thousands away from my finished dimension due to a little runout in the end mill and holder.

gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #280 on: March 22, 2015, 03:08:22 PM »
Here are some pictures of the finished rods. All that remains is to make the bearing inserts for them.
gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #281 on: March 25, 2015, 02:45:39 PM »
With so many parts to make it's just kind of a grab bag at the moment so I started on the cylinder liners. They are made from cast iron, the type being ductile with several designations, Durabar, continuous cast or schedule 40. Even though it's still a dirty job it's a very nice cutting iron and leaves a great finish. This iron comes with a scale on it so a light cleanup cut was made so that it positioned in the chuck better. I only drilled deep enough to make one liner at a time (2.00 long) to reduce the vibration when boring. I used the largest bar I had to also help with the vibration. The outside diameter was left heavy until the bore was finished and then it was turned to size, one for the flange, one for the upper diameter and one for the remainder of the tube. When I bored the block the holes varied by .001-.0015 so each barrel was turned and marked for it's respective cylinder.
The bore is an odd size due to trying to scale the original engine down so this meant that I couldn't buy an off the shelf lap so I made my own. I copied the .75 diameter commercial one that I had bought for my inline six engine. It's just a brass barrel tapped on one end to fit the shank (1/2-20 thread) with a 6 degree tapered hole in the opposite end to accept the cylindrical wedge to open it up. Once the turning and tapping was complete I put it in my dividing head to slot the walls.
I ordered some high strength Loctite to install the liners so as soon as it arrives I'll be putting the liners in place.
gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline tvoght

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #282 on: March 25, 2015, 03:12:53 PM »
Hi George,
I'm still watching and learning. Impressive work as always.

I have a question about the cast iron. It is typically oversize as purchased, and as an example, speedymetals supplies this note:

Attention: Dimensions listed below are oversize (+1/8") and will finish at listed size.  For example: 5/8" rd will measure at 3/4" but will finish at 5/8" rd.

What do they mean by "finish" here? Cleanup to remove the scale still leaves the stock well over nominal size, so I'm wondering about this. Does the outer
1/16th inch have different characteristics (from the mill process) that some users would care about, for instance? I've just been wondering.

Thanks,

--Tim

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #283 on: March 25, 2015, 03:34:18 PM »
Hi Tim
The stock does come oversize. I bought 1.00 diameter stock and the measurement over the scale was about 1.06 so it did clean up to 1.00. The only problem I had with this particular bar was that it had what looked like a hard spot, just a line, spaced almost evenly about every 2.25 inches. I didn't hurt the tool (carbide) and by the time I got the finished O.D. down to size, .936 diameter almost all of it had machined out. My concern was that it was cast into the inside bore but after close inspection with a bright light I didn't see anything inside. Whew! I must say that out of all the continuous cast iron that I have used this is the first one that I have had this condition with. Had it dulled the tool while cutting I might have bought another piece considering what it was being used for.
gbritnell
Talent unshared is talent wasted.

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Flathead V-8
« Reply #284 on: March 25, 2015, 06:22:43 PM »
George,  still following.  We all should remember that most metals as we use them are manufactured and variables definitely come into play. Back when I had a real job, I had a boiler tube welder have 16 rejected x-rays for incomplete fusion on one panel. I knew the kid and knew he was hot and fast, and this just wasn't his style.  I sent the x-ray techs back up to shoot a foot above weld line, and guess what,  the line was still there.  You just work with what you have. I showed my father(79)  this thread and he wants to know if you have figured out how to keep the head studs from twisting off  :shrug:, guess he once had a problem :thinking:. See you in York

E

 

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