Engine Test Bench

[b.lindsey]

Don had asked about the engine test bench the little radial was sitting on over on the build log. I have attached a few pictures below. There are plans for this along with a bill of materials for the purchased components and brass fittings, etc.  On mine, the sides are 3/4 thick solid oak (yeah I know, I am in a rut with oak) and the bottom, top, and angled piece where the gage is are oak veneer plywood, all of which I got at the local big box store. I will need to convert the plans to .pdf format but will do so and post them in the morning if anyone is interested.

Bill

[Don1966]

Bill I love it. Perfect setup for running in an engine. I'll be looking for the plans. Thanks buddy.

Don

[Bearcar1]

Looks pretty interesting to me Bill. Nice work (as per your usual) 


BC1
Jim

[Arbalest]

That looks really nice!  Must say though I may have been tempted to put some extra dials and switches on it for effect!   

[Ian S C]

Nice work there Bill. Here I go asking silly questions.  What sort of fixings have you used ie., screws etc. brass, or steel,  Oak tends to corrode steel, something to do with tannin in the wood.     Ian S C

[sshire]

Half-blind dovetails

[b.lindsey]

Ian, I used brass screws and the joints are glued as well. Haven't noticed any problem after many years.

Bill

[smfr]

That looks really handy, Bill 

I wonder if some wooden clamps on the top side wouldn't go amiss to hold down the base of the engine being tested (since I noticed you had to have a finger on the base of your rotary engine while testing).

Simon

[b.lindsey]

I hope these will come through ok..it is a .pdf file with 13 pages. Please note that the air filter, regulator, and lubricator I used were obtained from WW Grainger. I think the SKU #'s shown on the purchased components sheet are still good but I haven't checked them lately. If you don't have access to Grainger I suspect McMaster may have similar "miniature" size air line components. Same for the gage. Other components may require some modifications to the mounting plate and/or brass fittings. If nothing else you can use this as a starting point.

Simon, I like your suggestion a lot...just not sure how to do that in wood and make it flexible enough at the same time for various sized engine bases.

Bill

[philjoe5]

Very nice Bill.  Thanks for sharing your work.

Cheers,
Phil

[sshire]

Thanks for posting that Bill.
Re: clamps. Threaded brass inserts in the top would work with some brass clamps.
I've also had good luck with wobblers that love to walk off the table by using the pads made to keep cell phones, etc. from sliding off the dashboard

[b.lindsey]

Dang, you guys are gonna make me go back and do some mods now re: clamps   I could make some 1/4-20 flanged bushings glued or press fit from the underside and placed in various strategic places to add as much flexibility as possible.  Simon...where were you 9 years ago when I drew these up  Guess I have my next mini-project decided now!!

Bill

[mklotz]

You're aware that they make (machine) threaded inserts with exterior knife-like threads that screw into wood?  Simply drill a hole, screw in the insert with a flat blade screwdriver and voila, you have threads.

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Threaded-Stainless-Internal-Threads/dp/B00AGIE8DG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1404151941&sr=8-9&keywords=thread+inserts

[b.lindsey]

Yes, I have seen those too Marv, just wonder if they would be as secure in plywood. I'm sure gluing would help too. But for the purposes stated, simply holding down a model, it wouldn't take a lot of force anyway...not like clamping for machining.

Bill

[mklotz]

Yes, I have seen those too Marv, just wonder if they would be as secure in plywood. I'm sure gluing would help too. But for the purposes stated, simply holding down a model, it wouldn't take a lot of force anyway...not like clamping for machining.

If you manage to pull those out clamping a model engine, I'll pay for the repairs.