Author Topic: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive  (Read 194020 times)

Offline daveb

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #495 on: February 12, 2015, 03:00:56 PM »
Thanks Jo
Dave Barker
Bow NH

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #496 on: February 12, 2015, 03:02:08 PM »
Thanks Jo - was just about to look for the video when I saw you posted the link.

Dave, looks great! Thanks for the video.

I took at look for the 2mm copper tube - my normal suppliers only go down to 3mm, but K&S sells 2mm tube in packs of 1' lengths - these are the guys you see in the hobby shops. Online, Tower Hobbies, Hobbylinc, etc carry it. Normally I dont buy K&S since the prices work out so high, but for this amount it is not bad at all.

chris


Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #497 on: February 12, 2015, 07:48:07 PM »
I got a start on the horn couplings, which make up the inner workings of the universal joints on the drive shafts. They will be held in an outer ring with pins that let them rotate. To start, trimmed 4 pieces of stainless down to length. Each piece will make two of the horns - 8 of them are needed. (photo 1)

Then, drilled/bored the ends for the drive shafts. On one pair, the holes are smaller - this set will get pinned/silver soldered to the square telecoping drive shaft boxes. (photo 2)

With the holes done, turned down the ends to size. This will leave clearance for the outer rings to pivot in. (photo 3)

Next step was to mill flats on two sides of the bars. In order to ensure the flats were parallel, I clamped the parts in the mill vise (used the v-slot in the center to hold them), and milled the flats from either side without taking the part out of the vise. (photo 4)

Then, turned the piece sideways in the vise, resting the flat on a square bar, and drilled the pivot holes. When all the milling is done on each bar, it will be cut between these holes to make the two horn couplings. (photo 5)

Sixth photo shows the parts so far, with the end holes, flats, and pivot holes. Note that the one on the left has a different size end hole and shank - this will make the couplings for the square bars.

Next up was to start shaping the center area. With the bar held horizontally in the mill vise, the center area was milled down to size. Same depth was done on either side. Lots of cutting oil, a number of passes to get it down to size... (photo 7)

Last photo shows that done on the first bar - still need to do the same for the other three bars. After that, a 45 degree angle cut will be made at the ends of the center area to blend them into the ends - that will be next time.

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #498 on: February 13, 2015, 11:12:20 PM »
Lots more done on the horn couplings for the universal joint shafts. Set up the vise at an angle to mill the slanted portion of the center section. First photo shows the setup, little hard to see what it is doing, but second photo shows the result with the four angled portions of the horn pair (making two of the horns from one piece, much easier to hold in vise for milling this way).

Then back in the vise down flat again, and drilled out the majority of the center area. (photo 3)

Fourth photo shows the remaining part of the center being milled out. Fifth photo shows all 4 bars with the center milled, ready to cut apart.

Next photo shows the first two pairs cut apart into the individual horns. The bottom pair has been filed to final shape - tapered the inside corners off, and rounded the ends of the horns.

Seventh shot shows the first pair test fitted on the end of the axle shaft, held in position. Still need to make the outer shell and pins.

Last photo shows all 4 pair cut apart, still need to do the filing on the rest of them....

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #499 on: February 14, 2015, 12:15:15 AM »
Nice job on those Chris. Looking forward to seeing how you do the pins.

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #500 on: February 14, 2015, 01:21:27 AM »
Nice job on those Chris. Looking forward to seeing how you do the pins.

Bill

They are opposite of how a car driveshaft is, with the pins coming in from the outside ring rather than a cross shaped inner set. They should be an interesting build. Before I get to turning those parts I am going to make a mod to the qctp on the lathe. The a2z post has a tendency to slip out of position when doing high pressure cuts like parting and interrupted cuts. I am making a new base that has multiple tslot bolts rather than the single center one. Been wanting to do this for a while, and all the stainless steel parts coming up have convinced me to make it. Will throw up some pics in a couple days when it is done....

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #501 on: February 15, 2015, 09:17:06 PM »
Nice job on those Chris. Looking forward to seeing how you do the pins.

Bill

They are opposite of how a car driveshaft is, with the pins coming in from the outside ring rather than a cross shaped inner set. They should be an interesting build. Before I get to turning those parts I am going to make a mod to the qctp on the lathe. The a2z post has a tendency to slip out of position when doing high pressure cuts like parting and interrupted cuts. I am making a new base that has multiple tslot bolts rather than the single center one. Been wanting to do this for a while, and all the stainless steel parts coming up have convinced me to make it. Will throw up some pics in a couple days when it is done....

Bill,

Here is a shot of the reworked A2Z QCTP with the plate underneath it. Does two things - keeps it from moving under heavy cut pressure, like parting (the tool is so far off center from the center post that it has a LOT of torque on the holder - even the makers talk about this issue), the other thing it does is move the tool back closer to the middle of the cross slide, so the tailstock can reach better. Simple mod, just a slotted plate screwed to the bottom of the base, works great.

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #502 on: February 15, 2015, 09:31:36 PM »
This morning I got the rest of the horn couplings filed down like the first set, and got going on the telescoping drive shafts. First step was to make the hollow square tubes, which are made in two pieces silver soldered together. The first piece was made from a length of steel bar, with the center milled out to form the tube. The top of the channel was then milled back a little farther to hold the 'roof' of the tube. You can just see one side of that notch in the back wall of the channel in the first photo.

In the second/third photos, the flat bar for the roof is test fitted. The notced side walls hold the top piece so that a square tube is formed.

After making up a second set, got the tops/channels silver soldered together (glad it was a quick thing to solder up, it is about -5 F out there today, and that is the high temp for the next couple days, heading down to some overnights around -10 to -15!) Then, milled off the top smooth with the side walls. (photo 4)

Fifth photo shows how the horn coupling for the ends of the tubes go in - made up a snug fitting bit of square bar with a pin to hold the coupling, and silver soldered the coupling to the pin/bar. That assembly was then loctited and pinned into the square tube.

Sixth photo shows the next subassembly - lengths of round bar and square bar that is pinned/silver soldered together to form the inner part of the telescoping shaft. There is one long and one short bar, for the back and front drive shafts.

Last photo shows the round/square sections after silver soldering and trimming to length. Also has the horn coupling loctited/pinned in place on the end. The upper set in the photo has the square shaft in the tube, like it would be in use. The bottom one has it outside the tube, to show the parts.

Next up will be the housings/pins for the couplings. Though they do the same job as the u-joints in a car, they differ in that the pins are held in a large outer ring rather than using the cross-shaped connector that a car does. It takes up more room than a car-style joint, but there is plenty of space for it in the loco.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #503 on: February 15, 2015, 10:58:16 PM »
Interesting mod on the A2Z toolholder Chris. I agree it can be a problem at times. I have cut a square of sandpaper the size of the toolholder base and that seems to help a lot. What I like about your mod is that it moves the holder closer to the center of the cross slide as you noted. I have been threatening to get a tailstock extender piece for just that reason.

Nice progress on the universal joints as well!!

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #504 on: February 15, 2015, 11:16:22 PM »
Interesting mod on the A2Z toolholder Chris. I agree it can be a problem at times. I have cut a square of sandpaper the size of the toolholder base and that seems to help a lot. What I like about your mod is that it moves the holder closer to the center of the cross slide as you noted. I have been threatening to get a tailstock extender piece for just that reason.

Nice progress on the universal joints as well!!

Bill

I got a tailstock extender a while back, but it turned out to be a nightmare to get the live center/etc  out of it since there is no through hole to push through. The tailstock ejects the extender when cranked all the way back, but there is no way to eject tools from the extender, and it is too narrow to grip easily.

Offline ths

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #505 on: February 16, 2015, 07:59:06 AM »
The universals and the telescoping shafts look very at home with each other. More good work! Hugh.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #506 on: February 16, 2015, 12:25:07 PM »
Chris, I can see where that would be a problem getting things out of the extender. Surprising that the Sherline folks didn't think about that  :o.  Would it be possible to drill a small hole through the back of it...say 1/8" or so in order to be able to tap a live center or drill chuck out ??

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #507 on: February 16, 2015, 02:08:54 PM »
Chris, I can see where that would be a problem getting things out of the extender. Surprising that the Sherline folks didn't think about that  :o.  Would it be possible to drill a small hole through the back of it...say 1/8" or so in order to be able to tap a live center or drill chuck out ??

Bill

The extender is 2 or 2 1/2" long, so it would have to be a large enough drill to be that long.  The extender I have is not made by Sherline, but by another company (forget which). Depending what steel it is and it is hardened, it could be tough to drill a long hole. The Sherline extender is only 1-1/2" long, this other one was longer. The mod to the base of the toolpost is working very well. Moving it back to the center of the table reduces the number of times the extender would be needed, and it no longer shifts at all. The Sherline QCTP has a slot around the bottom to take one of the vise hold-downs, which must help - that would be another way to solve the movement issue, but it would still be off center of the table a bit - not as far as the A2Z one though. I am using the larger shank insert holders, which the A2Z one handles very well. Adding the slotted plate only raised the post 1/8", and was easy to drill/countersink for 4-40 screws into the base - just had to lower the tool holders 1/8" on thier adjusting screws to center them again.

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #508 on: February 16, 2015, 02:16:50 PM »
The universals and the telescoping shafts look very at home with each other. More good work! Hugh.

Thanks Hugh! I am looking forward to getting the rings/pins done to see how they work.

<engage vent mode>
With the bitter cold here (-10F last night), I've been over at my mothers' house keeping her @#$@%^@ furnace going. It is one of the newer style high-efficiency ones with the exhaust vented out the side wall. With it being SO cold, the water vapor in the exhaust is crystallizing as it hits the outside air and caking up on the outside fitting, which has the air intake behind a cover. Everytime it snows, the freezing water grabs the snowflakes and cakes it all over everything, clogging the intake and causing the furnace to shut off - sometimes after just an hour or so. The furnace guys around here are going round the clock getting furnaces back on line. Once I knew what the issue was, I started clearing it off myself. STUPID design of the things. Glad the one at my house is the older roof-vented ones - 5% less efficient but it works in any weather. I got it to run all night by rigging a little table above the vent to keep the snow off it.
<end vent mode>

You guys Down Under - any chance of shipping me a carton of Global Warming??! I heard it is hot in NSW at the moment... I'll trade you some snow!

Offline ths

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Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #509 on: February 16, 2015, 07:22:13 PM »
There's a lot of rain with our heat at the moment, and the humidity is suffocating at times, but the valley I live in can turn into a bit of a fish bowl. I'll put a small parcel in the post later today, but it could be soggy by the time it gets to you. Rain, although a pain, is better than the fire-prone alternative. Hugh.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2015, 07:25:59 PM by ths »

 

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