Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive

[crueby]

Chris, as amazing as the shay photos are, I am sure that more than a few of us would love seeing some of your wood carving and scrimshaw work as well...artistry is artistry...whatever the medium !!

Bill

Hi Bill,

Here are a few photos of just a few of the other pieces I've done... carvings, scrimshaw, full size boats, furniture....

Chris

[Jeff Michel]

Apparently your talents aren't limited to machining. I am in awe.

[crueby]

Apparently your talents aren't limited to machining. I am in awe.

Decades of looking at others work and thinking - I wonder how that is done, another thing to learn!

[b.lindsey]

Oh WOW!!! Thanks so much Chris for sharing those. Just as for the shay...each a work of art in it's own right!!  Totally awesome. 

Bill

[jschoenly]

Very nice on all accounts!!

[90LX_Notch]

Wow. I feel very sub-mortal.  Beyond impressive.

-Bob

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Well that just confirms that a real artist can find a finished part in a hunk of about any type material  .

Eric

[crueby]

Thanks guys - much appreciated! Just like with machining, carving results get better over time as new techniques/methods are learned - can be amazing to compare recent results to early ones.


Got the rest of the crankshaft bearings done. One thing I changed after the first one was to drill the starter hole for boring with the soldered-together halves all the way into the chuck, to keep the drill from cracking them apart. After starter drilling, I then moved it out like I showed in the first one and bored the center and turned the outside. Doing it that way kept the parts together till I parted them off. First photo shows the bearings all in place and test fitted with a piece of the stock for the crankshaft.

With everything fitting fine (a little tight to turn, close enough that I will wait till the crankshaft is done and will lap them with some diamond paste to a nice smooth run), it was time to loctite the bearing halves in place. Being careful to keep the pairs together and oriented the same as they were made, a drop of loctite went in between the bronze bearing and the brass case. The caps were screwed back on to press everything into place, with a piece of card stock between the halves to keep from sticking everything together. After it set up, the card stock was removed.

Last two photos show the engine so far bolted up on the loco. This morning I made the lower bracket, which holds the crankcase steady to the frame of the loco. It is a piece of brass sheet stock, bent to shape (another template was made to get the angles) and drilled for three mounting bolts top and bottom. You can see the plate behind the crankcase in the photos (shows best in the last one).

This was the last step before making the crankshaft itself. It will be a built-up crank rather than turned from one solid bar. I have had great luck making them that way on other engines, going to do the same here. I make the webs and eccentrics as press fit on the rods, position everything and drill for cross pins at every joint, then for good measure go back with low temp silver solder to fill in the joints and lock everything together so nothing can wiggle loose. As long as the web pairs are made together and kept oriented right, the final results come out square. Going to take some time and select stock and lay out everything, then will get a start on it - should be fun!

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Looks like jewelry in a display case  . It won't be long until as Cash said: "I here the train a comin "

Eric

[ths]

Hmmm..maybe you don't need a hobby. Great work you've shown, (the rocker, the canoe - exemplary) and the engines look right at home. Cheers, Hugh.

[Dave Otto]

Wow that looks nice!

You might want to reconsider the diamond lapping compound; it may embed in the bearings and continue to lap the crank for a long time. I would look into the Time-saver lapping compound, it won't embed and breaks down to a harmless state after doing it's job. There are 4 different grits for both ferrous and non ferrous metals; you can purchase a sample kit which is just about a lifetime supply for someone like us.

I is an amazing product that can produce silky smooth fits on sliding and rotating assemblies.



I really enjoyed the pictures of your other hobbies; you are are a man of many talents and a true artist; thanks for sharing your work.

Dave

[crueby]

Wow that looks nice!

You might want to reconsider the diamond lapping compound; it may embed in the bearings and continue to lap the crank for a long time. I would look into the Time-saver lapping compound, it won't embed and breaks down to a harmless state after doing it's job. There are 4 different grits for both ferrous and non ferrous metals; you can purchase a sample kit which is just about a lifetime supply for someone like us.

I is an amazing product that can produce silky smooth fits on sliding and rotating assemblies.



I really enjoyed the pictures of your other hobbies; you are are a man of many talents and a true artist; thanks for sharing your work.

Dave

Never heard of that stuff - sounds perfect. Where do you get it?

[Dave Otto]

McMaster Carr has it, the price has gone up since I bought mine some years ago.

4782A61

http://www.mcmaster.com/#lapping-compounds/=vsrdza


Dave

[crueby]

McMaster Carr has it, the price has gone up since I bought mine some years ago.

4782A61

http://www.mcmaster.com/#lapping-compounds/=vsrdza


Dave

Saw some great reviews of it on the web, found the maker sells the soft metal test kit for 30 bucks, gonna give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

[crueby]

Got a start on the crank webs today. Started by milling some 303 stainless steel rod to the needed rectangular size, then cut off 3 pairs of that a little long to allow for clamping them. Each pair was marked to let me keep them together and oriented the same every time. (photo 1)

Second photo shows the first pair clamped together, with the table positioned and locked down for center drilling the first of the main shaft and crank pin holes. The shafts are 5/16", and centered 9mm apart.The clamps will stay in place till both holes are drilled/reamed, so that they will stay aligned with each other.

Then drilled out the first hole, starting with a smaller drill and working my way up to full size, which keeps the chatter/wander away. (photo 3)

Fourth photo shows reaming the hole to final size, which leaves it a press fit for the rod.

Fifth photo shows drilling the second hole - unlocked the table cross movement and moved it over to the new position and locked it again. The piece stayed clamped in the vise so that the second hole would be parallel to the first one.

Sixth shot shows the pieces out of the vise, seventh photo shows the first pair drilled, ready for radiusing the ends (will do that after all 3 pairs are drilled).

Last shot shows the first pair test fit on a piece of the rod for the main shaft - nice and square to the shaft, good to go. Two more pair to drill....