Author Topic: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive  (Read 194047 times)

Offline Roger B

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #195 on: November 13, 2014, 07:10:28 PM »
Looking great  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: Still following along and enjoying  :)
Best regards

Roger

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #196 on: November 13, 2014, 08:45:06 PM »
Since the boltheads on the outside are smooth, how did you insure they were screwed in firmly?

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #197 on: November 14, 2014, 12:40:04 AM »
Since the boltheads on the outside are smooth, how did you insure they were screwed in firmly?

Bill

Both outside heads and inside nuts are smooth - I grabbed them with small needle nose visegrips to tighten. Left a few light marks but the bronze is hard enough not to dig in much. Other things happening in next few days plus the cold and snow will delay next soldering session. Might work ahead on smokebox chamber if weather stays crappy...

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #198 on: November 14, 2014, 08:57:05 PM »
Got a start on the smokebox tube while waiting for the weather to improve enough to get back outside and finish the staybolt soldering. The smokebox bolts on the front of the boiler, collects the hot gasses from the firetubes, and sends them up the stack. It is made from brass sheet - turned a former cylinder and bent the sheet around it (took 2 annealing passes to shape it fully). Once the tube was rolled to shape, used a piece of wire to hold it on the former and drilled holes for rivets to hold a joint strip (picture 1).

To rivet on the joint strip, took a scrap of brass block and carved in some half round dimples with a ball-end rotary tool (have a big selection of rotary burs that I use for carving). The holes were put next to the edge since there are two rivets side by side, that allowed one to hang off the side while its neighbor was hammered. Held that block in the vise (picture 2), and peened over the ends of the rivets on the inside (picture 3).

With the rivets holding the shell (pic 4), I silver soldered the seam (pic 5).

Then, put the tube back on the former and used the rotary table to drill 36 holes around each end to take the dummy rivets (pic 6). These simulate the rivets that hold the firebox on (it is actually held with screws into the boiler front plate) and also the smokebox door (also will be on screws so it is all removeable). The rivets will be added later, after more of the fittings are on.

With the holes drilled, went back and trued up the ends of the tube with the mill (last picture).

Next up will be to start boring holes for things like the smokestack and exhaust tubes....

Offline jschoenly

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #199 on: November 15, 2014, 03:11:17 AM »
80/20 tailstock and all that creative work to get it done.  Very cool!!
Jared
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Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #200 on: November 15, 2014, 03:27:48 AM »
80/20 tailstock and all that creative work to get it done.  Very cool!!

Cheapskateness is the mother of invention!  Why buy a special tailstock when I have a few chunks of 80/20 left over from test fixtures at old job and an old live center from a defunct lathe?! Not good for a jet turbine, but for supporting a few light cuts it works fine.

Offline Roger B

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #201 on: November 15, 2014, 12:06:36 PM »
Very neat tailstock. I assume that 80/20 is the term for the aluminium profiles?
Best regards

Roger

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #202 on: November 15, 2014, 01:38:03 PM »
Very neat tailstock. I assume that 80/20 is the term for the aluminium profiles?
Yup, it is the brand for those extrusions and all the little accessories the sold with it. Sort of an Erector Set toy for engineers. We used it in the labs to make frames for test fixtures and prototypes, and a few chunks followed me home when they shut down the facility.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #203 on: November 15, 2014, 01:47:48 PM »
That's an elegant solution for a one off operation crueby. Nicely done.

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #204 on: November 17, 2014, 06:34:55 PM »
Next up on the smokebox assembly are the bushings that hold the smokestack. The inner ring is soldered on, and the outer ring will become part of the stack, and held on with a setscrew on the inside of the smokebox. Started by turning the rings to shape (the outer one gets a 1/4-round step) (photo 1), and then boring the inside of each ring - a small step was left to form a seat to hold the ring to a milling bracket later (photo 2).

The third photo shows both rings turned to shape, along with a threaded disk that fits inside on the step.

With the inner ring screwed to an angle bracket on the rotary table, the outer edge was milled to the radius matching the inside of the smokebox (photo 4). This could also be done on the lathe, but I already had the rotary table and mill set up from doing the smokebox tube, so it was just as easy to do the work there.

Then, put the outer ring on the inside edge of the angle bracket and moved the bracket out to the right distance to mill the inner edge (photo 5).

6th photo shows both rings test fitted to the smokebox. The inner ring was then silver soldered in place (held with brass screws which were then filed off).

After that, was time to install the dummy rivets on the outer ends of the smokebox tube. These are just for show, the smokebox and front cover are held in place with screws into the blocks that show in photo 7.

Last photo shows the smokebox tube so far - ready to make the front cover.


Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #205 on: November 17, 2014, 06:35:31 PM »
Abotu half done with the front cover for the smokebox. The book calls for turning it from a large brass disc - I did not have any 3" bar, but have plenty of sheet stock, so I silver soldered up a small stack and turned it from that. There is a 1/2" round bar piece soldered onto the middle of the back side that I am using to chuck it in the lathe - will trim that off when it is done.

After turning the shape of the door into the disk, moved over to the rotary table to drill the bolt holes around the edge and the bolt holes by the first step that will take the door clamps.

Last step so far was to mill in slots for the hinge brackets - next up will be to make the hinges and door clamps....


Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #206 on: November 17, 2014, 06:47:08 PM »
That rotary table and angle plate are getting good use crueby. I love how easily the lathe chucks adapt to it. The boiler is really coming together now for sure.

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #207 on: November 17, 2014, 07:42:25 PM »
That rotary table and angle plate are getting good use crueby. I love how easily the lathe chucks adapt to it. The boiler is really coming together now for sure.

Bill

The part that makes it easy is that sherline has an adapter bolt that screws into center of rotary table and has same outer thread as headstock spindle, so all the chucks self center on the table. Very handy feature.

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #208 on: November 17, 2014, 08:17:46 PM »
Yep I know...and use that feature often. It's so nice when things are thoughtfully designed to work as a system and not only as discreet components. :)

Bill

Offline crueby

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Re: Building Kozo's New Shay locomotive
« Reply #209 on: November 17, 2014, 10:56:42 PM »
Yep I know...and use that feature often. It's so nice when things are thoughtfully designed to work as a system and not only as discreet components. :)

Bill

Too bad they did not use the same t-slots on the rotary table as on the cross-slides - the rotary table has slightly deeper 't's, so some of the fittings dont work. Think it would have been better to make the cross slide t's deeper, they would be a little stronger given they are aluminum.

 

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