Rider-Ericsson ¼ scale - Hot Air and Pumped!

[sshire]

Thanks, Jo. Watch for the first run at stud making tomorrow. Please comment.

Bill
That was a suggestion in an email from Bogs. As you know, the BP has three rates of quill downfeed,  all tied to the spindle rpm. The continuously variable speed on the power knee feed lets me "tune" it until it sounds right. It may be in my head, but I am getting better finishes on the bores. Another factor is that I'm using Borite indexable  boring bars and the carbide likes a higher rpm which increases the quill feed rate. So, with the knee, I can do the higher rpm but a slower feed rate.

[b.lindsey]

Well ...that explains it then , and makes logical sense too!  I worked with a BP once that had a power knee feed and man...those things can spoil you in no time!!

Bill

[sshire]

When I got the BP last summer, I had also budgeted for two power feeds and opted for X and Z. Good choice. The knee requires 10 turns of the crank per inch of movement. Not like turning the X or Y handles 10 turns. I get the feeling that without it, I'd be looking at a shoulder rebuild. I've seen all manner of z feeds using cordless drills which would still be far better than hand- cranking. The other thing I've done is use the auto stops to kill the power feed when a pass is completed. On this bore, I set them for about .25" beyond the top and bottom of the bore. This way, if I'm not paying 100% attention, the feed stops before boring into the Kurt.

[ths]

I've told this before but, if you missed it...
I was sitting, iPad in hand,MEM on the screen, and my wife asked, "what are you looking at?"
When I answered, "Dave Otto's nuts", she just shook her head and walked away.

Is there copyright on this? Hugh.

[Dave Otto]

I've told this before but, if you missed it...
I was sitting, iPad in hand,MEM on the screen, and my wife asked, "what are you looking at?"
When I answered, "Dave Otto's nuts", she just shook her head and walked away.

 

Hey Stan

I have been following along and enjoying your work as always; just haven't had time to comment yet. I also have a set of these castings on the shelf for a someday project.

BTW. What did you end up using for a knee drive and are you happy with it? I figure after 27 years of cranking that knee up and down maybe I need to add some power.

Dave

[Kim]

Some good progress on an odd shaped piece.  Looking good Stan!
Kim

[sshire]

No copyright.. Feel free to use it where appropriate.

Dave
I read a bunch of posts on other sites. The real deal is the Servo Power Feeds but the price was out of my ballpark. The eBay feeds have mixed reviews, especially on the knee. I found that Servo has an import line,  built to their specs and support at 1/2 the price. I ended up with the Servo Dynamo on the X and Z.
They look exactly like the USA Servos, down to the heavy cast case. The fit was perfect. No slop at all. A 5 minute install on the X and 10 minutes on the Z. Never had a problem. Very smooth.
Here's a link

http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/page/591257

And installation info
http://www.servoproductsco.com/html/dynamo_power_feed.html

[Bobsmodels]

Stan

You are making great progress.  I have been busy with a new room project and getting the garden planted this last month.  I have had Z axis power unit sitting on shelf for about 5 years, after reading your success I think I may put on before i bore cylinder sleeve. I remember not being able to get the existing drive sleeve off, the BP is from 1972.  I need to get my posts caught up to where I am, will do that this weekend.

Bob

[sshire]

Bob
Mine is 1978 vintage. Same issue with drive sleeve. I shot it with PB Blaster and waited about an hour. Popped right out

[Dave Otto]

Thanks Stan

Dave

[Bobsmodels]

Stan

I will give that a try

Thanks

Bob

[b.lindsey]

Not sure what's in the stuff but PB Blaster has always worked well for me and is a good thing to keep around.

Bill

[sshire]

Rider Ericsson ¼ scale - Hot Air and Pumped!
Episode 4

Stud Farm

Origin
Middle English stod, from Old English stōd; akin to Old Church Slavic stado flock and probably to Old High German stān to stand.
First Known Use: before 12th century

That was your educational bit for the day.

I was determined to make better studs than I have in other builds. No all thread, close to the correct ratios for the depth of blind holes, proper ends, etc.

Drill rod doesn’t lend itself to the nicest threads but I didn’t want to start with the size larger 12L14 and then turn it down to the correct major diameter. I knew if I did that, I’d end up making a box tool or turning the thin rod between centers or whatever else would slow the progress.

Wandering around McMaster’s website I found this.

Ultra-Machinable W1 Tool Steel

With lower amounts of alloy elements than other tool steels, W1 offers excellent machinability. This is a water-hardening tool steel that is often used for hammers, files, taps, and reamers.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-rods/=saleu1

Cheap enough to try out. I ordered two 3ft lengths of each in the correct major diameters for 8-32 and 6-32 studs.

Don’t know about “Ultra-Machinable” but it machines very closely  to 12L14. The threads didn’t show tearing. I’m sold. I’ll stick with standard drill rod for shafts but use this for threading; both with dies and single-pointing.


So, with that issue solved, I parted off 4 pieces at the finished stud length. My formula is derived from  a variety of Jo’s posts.
Major diameter X 1.5 for the length of the end that goes into the blind hole (which was drilled to major diameter X 2 for the depth.)
Add thickness of the piece being held by the nut. The piece with the clearance hole.

Add height of nut + (thread pitch X 1.5) + .05 for the rounded end.





I also decided to make a stop for the tailstock die holder.
A piece of brass hex from the scrap box drilled a few thou larger than the stud.



The thread length was set on the calipers and pushed against the stud end and the stop. Tighten the 5C collet and it’s ready to thread.





Searching through my wood router bits, I found this one. It’s now become the stud round-over tool.



Flipping the stud to the opposite end and repeat the process.



Once I had the first one done and had worked out the order of operations, the rest came very quickly.

Threaded into the leg. The stud stops at the correct depth by the thread ending.





Detail



Standing on its own two legs (and four feet)



The last job for today was to drill the holes in the flywheel bracket.



Rotate 90 degrees and drill the same holes on the flat that attaches to the cylinder.

I’m leaning towards cleaning up the firebox tomorrow. Oliver gets more work and I’ll fettle some also.
Thanks for following along.

[smfr]

Those studs look really nice, Stan! I've been using a file to round over the ends, but I like the idea of a form tool.

Simon

[b.lindsey]

Nice day's work Stan and its good to see it standing on those legs/feet.

Bill