I ordered the prints today. Hodgson 9 cyl. radial.

[1dbweldor]

Gentlemen
 I ordered the prints and sent the check in today. Should be here Monday week. I'm like a kid waiting for Christmas.

 I went out yesterday and run across some aluminum pieces. 6 pieces 2"x4"x18",4pieces 6"x24"x4 1/16" thick,1 piece 5 1/4"x20", and about 80 other pieces various sizes up to about 10" long. I hope this will be enough to get me started till the material for the cylinders and rings come in.
 
I went out in the shop today and turned out a cylinder to see if I had it to cut the fins. I used 02 and blanked a piece 2 1/16" and squared it, then bored it .998. I then set it up on an expanding sleeve arbor in centers and roughed it in what I can tell by looking at Steves pictures. I know the dimensions aren't right for one of these engines but I want to see if I can cut these cooling fins. I got it looking decent for 02 and then tried the fins. It didn't take long I figured I better grind a better insert. I ground an insert .031 1.5 degree relief, different coolant, then away I went. It didn't take long to get a system going with the feed and dial indicators then about an hour it looks like a cylinder. Deburred everything and went over to the pin fitter and final honed the bore. It comes in at 1.0000 all the way down. That should be close enough.

This made me realize I might be able to run with the big dogs on this project. By the way from what I have seen on the internet the cylinders are the only thing that I was questioning myself on and this turned out acceptable. I'll try to post a picture if ya'll want.

I want thank everybody for the pictures and information on here to get me going.

[stevehuckss396]

What engine are we talking about? And yes! we all want pictures. We love pictures.

[b.lindsey]

Nice db, that should be a big dose of confidence...and yes...pictures please.

Bill

[1dbweldor]

Ok I'll try this again

 The engine I am planning on building is Lee Hodgson's 9 cylinder radial.

 This is the cylinder I machined today.

Let me know what you guys think........I'm tough I can take it.

[steamer]

Looks good! ....how do the dimensions look to you?

Dave

[1dbweldor]

The dimensions probably aren't even close to what the prints will call for. What I did to get an idea of the size of these parts and what it's going to take to machine, I looked through out several sites and read what I could find. Looking for clues of dimension I read 1 3/4"x just a little over 2". From there I cut some 02 1 3/4" round at 2 1/8", then squared it up on both ends and cut it to 2 1/16" in length.
 From there I figured the bore is 1", so I bored it out to .998. Then with an 1/8" wall I commence to cutting the skirt and the bottom of the flange. From there I went to the top and figured the diameter of the bottom plus 36 threads per inch divided into .866 and took this number to the top and cut back what looked right as far as the pictures I have been looking at. Then from there I figured the skirt diameter plus 1/8 inch on each side for the fins and cut it down to there.
 Once I got it blanked in I started to cutting the fins, once this was done I threaded the top. By the way on the threading I turned this part 300 rpm to thread the end.

[sshire]

Lee's table was across the aisle from MEM at Cabin Fever. A beautiful engine and a formidable project.
Lee is a very interesting guy and extremely helpful. I'll be following the build

[steamer]

Having the excitement for the project is a good thing!   And Stan is very right, Lee's a good guy!    Have at it!   Mr. William's 9 is well along, and I'm sure he can comment on various sections...including the gear cutting!

Dave

[1dbweldor]

I received the prints on 5/30/14. I've been trying to get organized a little better before I start this project.
 I have a couple parts to finish in the lathe before I can start turning anyway. I hope to get to turning this weekend. I ordered the material for the pistons, cylinders, and the rings today, it should be in by this weekend.
 A question for the old pro's?
 For the 4-40 studs why wouldn't set screws work? I am open to all comments on this question so please let me know your thoughts.

[ths]

Do I hear the sound of the forums' m'aam typing furiously?

Hugh.

[Jo]

 

[Ian S C]

db,  I suppose that studs and nuts are easier to make than set screws.  Studs would be more in line with full size practice.       Ian S C

[steamer]

I'd make the studs....but that's just me.

Dave

[tangler]

Apart from scaling full size practice, there can be a good reason for using studs rather bolts.  In aluminium, particularly cast aluminium, threads can be quite fragile.  Models are often subject to a lot of assembly and disassembly resulting in the female threads becoming worn.  The use of studs stops this and, if a stud becomes loose, it can be loctited in position without losing the ability to take the thing apart.

That's my rationale anyway.

Rod

[Mayhugh1]

I used socket head set screws for the studs on mine. You pretty much have to use a stud and nut assembly as there is little height to deal with a bolt with a head. You can purchase set screws with ball noses, and if you make a stud installer you can put these set screws in upside down for a really neat look. I just screwed mine in normally, though.
I finished an H-9 assembly/build thread about this time last year over on "the other" forum that might be of some interest as you get further into yours. I've currently got another thread going on over there on my own version of an 18 cylinder model which is nearing completion. You're in for a lot of interesting and rewarding work. Good Luck! - Terry

[1dbweldor]

I do appreciate all the input that I received on my question. That is why I asked. Thank you everybody.
 What I thought was install inverted and nuts on top. The scale factor didn't even register in my feeble little mind.

 I finally started cutting metal today. I got my lathe freed up and thought HOT DAMN here we go. Picked out a tool to start on, grabbed some metal and started making the thread gauges for the heads and cylinders.
You guys that have been doing this for years, My hat is off to you. It's going to take me a little bit to get used to these small parts. Nothing I can't handle though.

 Once again I want to thank everybody for there input.

[b.lindsey]

db, I know I am likely in the minority here, but I would vote for set screws as well. For the number you will need for this project, unless you just really enjoy making them, I think the consistency you will get with set screws (alloy or stainless) is an advantage with little if any detraction from the finished model. The only exception would be where there may not be any other type of locating ring where you would need the non threaded portion of the stud to really assist with alignment. We all have our ways of doing things of course and that is fine, I just never found any pleasure in being able to say (or knowing for that matter) that I made the fasteners  (studs) rather than purchased them.

Bill

[Jo]

with little if any detraction from the finished model.

 

[b.lindsey]

Well if the "official" length of thread exposed is 1 1/2 threads...I still stand by the statement Jo, but still aware that it is a minority opinion

Bill

[ths]

with little if any detraction from the finished model.

 

She's twitching.

[1dbweldor]

The studs for the cylinders are .500 in length. The hole is drilled to .312 and the stud protrudes .210 above the surface. This is why I thought inverted set screws would be doable.

[Camm-1]

Is a 50 mm diameter roundbar inogh for The cylinders or what does The drawings say?

[Ian S C]

On one model that needed studs, but set screws were easier I used threaded rod with a nut Loctited on with 1 1/2 threads showing, and used that, it looks OK, and now everyone knows     Ian S C

[1dbweldor]

Gentlemen
  First and foremost I do not want to take anything from anybody that is building one of the Hodgson radial 9 engines. I have looked over this site quite a bit and I am thoroughly impressed with the machine work I have seen on this site from SWilliams and JohnL( I hope I got that right). I feel I would be hard pressed to match their work much less improve it.
 I got shut down for a month since I got materials but this is where I'm at as of today.
 I am machining the heads right now. Actually the squish band and the threads, I have a couple left while in this setup then on to the cooling fins. I already have the cylinders made shy of the mounting holes,final hone of the bore and blueing.
 My wife has been on me to take pictures as I go, so I took pictures of what I was doing today hopefully they will be decent enough to see for criticism.

[HobbyNut]

Workmanship looks great. 
Is that 20 cylinders I count on the tray?...

[1dbweldor]

Actually it's 21 on the cart and the other one is to check the threads of the remaining heads. I'll have to go back and make a few more when I'm done with these heads.

[steamer]

Awesome!

Dave

[HobbyNut]

Why so many cylinders?

[smfr]

Maybe he's making three? 

It would be great if the thread title could be updated to say what engine this is. "I ordered the prints today" doesn't tell me much!

Simon

[1dbweldor]

My mistake gentlemen
 This is the Hodgson 9 cyl radial.
 Yes I am building 3 of these engines.
Here are some more pictures.