An experimental, gearless, horizontal 4-stroke

[SHOPGUY]

Neat little engine Geoff
Thanks for posting your continuing saga.
Must generate some power to twist up a crank like that.  Yes, you might want to consider a bit heavier version of the crank . Lots of inertia in the crank and flywheels.
Experimental is always good and certainly a multifaceted learning experience.
Ernie J
Olds, Alberta

[Ian S C]

Geoff, I find that 1/4" steel is even too light for most of my hot air engines.
     You could have made a little tool to fit on your lathe so that you can cut an internal keyway.  It looks something like a boring bar, and you lock the chuck, and crank the saddle back and forward.  Easy to grind up the cutter in HSS, a bit of old centre drill/ broken tap,  Or you can make it from silver steel/drill rod and harden and temper.     Ian S C

[geoff_p]

Thanks for your comments, Ian and I did think of that but I doubt my little 'ole MJ189 would stand for it;  the saddle wobbles about enough in ordinary use so I think it would allow the tool to spring rather a lot. 

Besides, I fancy getting some 'right' tools for a change and 'proper' broaches be a useful start.

Now for the big question - which orientation should the keyways be in my attached sketch?

Assuming, that is, that twisting the crankshaft through 180 degrees again is not an option.

[Jo]

It is normal to fit the keyway in position C as there is often an oil way that goes from the crank bearings to the big end bearing.

Jo

[geoff_p]

Thanks, Jo.

In the past I've only used ball-races on mains so haven't needed to 'do' any lubrication for them - the big-end just got a slastering/squirt-from-the-oil-can when I remembered.

And this engine has a carbon big-end, which seems to get impregnated and hold oil for quite a while.  Part of my experimenting is to find how well it will hold-up/wear in practice.

I'm not sure how to drill the passageways - the main-shaft is still solid, as I want to mill the keyways before chopping-out the centre part.  And even after that's gone ?  please.

Geoff

[collbee]

 Hi Geoff,
 Try this ..........

Windows computers come with the "Windows Movie Maker" program already installed on the operating system so you can start recording the scenes for your movie right away. The free program lets you record from any connected video device, in this case your webcam. You can also import video clips you have already recorded from the same webcam or a different source. Once you are finished recording the end result is a movie.

In my bigger engines ..... if it starts to run away on us and is uncontrollable ...... one of the first things I do is to start retarding the spark.

Cheers....
collbee

[Jo]

Oil ways: I have attached a picture of my R&B crank.

You can see that the crank has been drilled from one end. On this engine there are counter weights bolted on so the oil way going up the web has been drilled under the web to save having a plug showing.

The crank pin has again been drilled from one side half way across the crank pin. Both the crank pin and the crank are cross drilled to let the oil flow from the mains into the big end. All the unnecessary holes are then plugged to keep the oil in.

I have seen one R&B with an oiler on the big end  one can only speculate what happens to the oil in the oiler as it runs 

Jo

[geoff_p]

Cheers, Collbee.  That works.  Now when I've taken Jo's advice I should be able to record oil flying everywhere (Sorry, Jo.)

Thanks for your sketch, Jo, I'll give that a try.  Though I'm a bit concerned about weakening the shaft with a hole right along its length.

[Jo]

Hi Geoff,

The R&B  is a big engine (175cc) so has larger diameter oil ways. The Double Tangye has a similair oil holes drilled through the crank but these are only 1/16" diameter which is enough to feed a 1/4" diameter crank pin.

Jo

[geoff_p]

Thanks again, Jo.
I wonder if I can drill through at an angle from the bearing-location, as per this sketch.

Because of the twin flywheels, the crankshaft extends some 52mm beyond each web: I just don't have any small drills capable of going that deep.  Come to that, I don't have many large drills either 

Geoff

[Ian S C]

Our HR 6 Ruston Hornsby diesel engine, 28 hp single cylinder horizontal engine has an oiler on the big end, it also has a ring on the outside of the crank that  (sometimes) directs oil into the crank pin.  Crank pin about 4" diameter, big end white metal.   Ian S C

[geoff_p]

Sorry, Folks, more questions:

With luck my broaches should be here tomorrow, Monday - they've been in Bangkok for a few days, in the postal system, according to Royal Mail Tracking Service.

So, what poundage or tonnage is needed to push these blighters through mild steel?  I'm hoping to use 3mm keys and the bore length is about 12mm.
I've seen videos of rack-and-pinion bench-presses used, so would the force available at the quill of my bench-drill be enough? (I assume I would have to do it in stages because of limited quill-travel.)

Also ...
What/which domestic cleaning agents would/might work for a silver-solder pickle-bath?

Cheers,
Geoff,
Thailand

[Brian Rupnow]

Geoff--I don't think you will get happy results from your bench drill . I frequently broach 1/8" keyways into steel pulley hubs, and I find that it takes a fair bit of grunt on my 2 ton arbor press with an 18" handle.---Brian

[geoff_p]

Blimey Brian, that's put a stopper on that "great idea".

I guess I'll have to build an hydraulic press - 'tis a good job I live near the famous Rong Kluer Market where I can buy a car jack.

Cheers,

Geoff,
Thailand

[Ian S C]

For a pickle, you could use citric acid, comes as crystals similar to white sugar,  should find it at a supermarket among the cookery bits, or a home brew shop.  Another thing is white vinegar.  Or drain cleaner, or any thing for defurring/descaling kettles/pots.    Ian S C