Author Topic: 2" Clayton Power Wagon  (Read 12186 times)

Offline dnalot

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2" Clayton Power Wagon
« on: May 10, 2014, 03:52:09 PM »
2" Clayton Steam Wagon

I started this project not knowing if I would get very far. The model design was published by "Model Engineer" over about a two year period (78-79). Many of the parts were available for purchase at the time, something I would not be able to do. The wheels looked like the most challenging parts so that is where I started "about a year ago". I now have a completed frame, axles, wheels and tires and I have a start on the engine, so I guess I'm building the Clayton all the way. Over the next few days I will bring you up to date on the project and in the months to come I will keep you informed as to my progress.

The original model had cast aluminum wheels. My casting abilities are limited so I decided I would machine mine from blanks. Now the rear wheels are some 6" in diameter and that is a big chunk of metal. So I decided to cast a rough blank using the lost foam method. The foam was cut on my cnc router and then I gently rammed them in green sand for casting. The foam is very delicate so I had to make the web thickness hearty to be able to hold the wheels shape while ramming.

Once I had the wheel blanks I chucked them into the lathe to turn the outer diameter and to dish in the center of the wheel to speck. After that was completed I mounted the wheels to the mill and roughed out the web between the spokes.  And then it was off to the CNC router to detail the spokes. This is where I ran into a little trouble as my routers bearings decided to give out after 5 years of use. This made for a little bit more in the way of tool marks. A bit of file work and some sand blasting and the wheels were ready to be anodized.

Next I will show how I cast solid rubber tires.

Mark T
Some times it's better to keep quiet and be thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.

Offline Alan Haisley

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2014, 04:41:34 PM »
This sounds interesting.  :popcornsmall:

Alan
Near Raleigh, NC, USA

Offline Kim

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2014, 05:12:33 PM »
Hi Mark,
That is really interesting, how you made the wheels.  Thanks for sharing this with us   :popcorn:
Kim

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2014, 06:06:18 PM »
Next I will show how I cast solid rubber tires.

Cool.  :popcorn:
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Offline Coopertje

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2014, 08:15:51 PM »
Very nice work on the wheels Mark. Have the plans for the Clayton too, but I find it quite intimidating to start on it, so many parts to make. Admire your courage to take such a huge project  :praise2:

Jeroen

Offline pgp001

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2014, 11:18:58 PM »
Mark

Great job on those wheels.
Did you spot the mistake on the steering linkage, there needs to be a double joint at the bottom end of the steering drop arm.
The drag link needs to be able to pivot in two planes as the lock is applied, but as designed it only allows for movement in one plane. Most builders just make a very "slack fitting" joint to compensate for it.

In fact the whole front axle is not accurate to the original wagon, when I made mine many years ago I redesigned that whole assembly so it looked like the full size one.

Phil

fcheslop

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2014, 11:25:58 PM »
Nice work on the wheels.
I seem to remember a little problem on the valve gear when I made my Clayton it always had a very slight kick on the lever arm or it may have just been the way I made it although a gent at Harrogate last year mentioned the same prob.
I made a simple clutch so the engine could run whilst standing as I had not fitted an injector .I did fit the feed water heater and it worked better than I thought it would.
I keep thinking about rebuilding it as a 6 wheeler and do away with the trailer.Well oneday
cheers

Offline dnalot

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2014, 02:14:56 AM »
Thanks for the comments guys. I had not even looked at the steering. Thanks for the heads up, I will be taking a closer look at that when the time comes. And a timely comment on the reverse linkages. I just completed the crankshaft and now have it mounted to the crankcase, It could be that the Joy linkage being designed straight rather than curved is making for a problem.

I am not clear as to what the injector does, please explain. I expect to sail along just fine till it comes time to plumb this thing.

I have made my frame longer than the magazine's model and will set it up as a flatbed.

I will have my post on the tires ready by tomorrow, I need to make the photos ready for upload.

Mark T
Some times it's better to keep quiet and be thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.

Offline Jo

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2014, 07:56:20 AM »
In fact the whole front axle is not accurate to the original wagon, when I made mine many years ago I redesigned that whole assembly so it looked like the full size one.

Phil

You mean something like this Phil  ;)

I must finish the plumbing  :facepalm2:

Jo
Enjoyment is more important than achievement.

Offline pgp001

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2014, 10:13:49 AM »
Jo

Yes, that was the main big difference in that the forks are part of the hub and not on the axle ends.
The wheels would be dished as well to get the tyre contact on the road somewhere in line with the king pin.

Phil

Offline dnalot

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2014, 02:30:16 PM »
After an exhaustive search for an easy way to put some tires on my wheels I finally decided I would have to cast my own. A search of McMaster-Carr for rubber casting materials found me this product. Liquid urethane, it was available in several grades of hardness. It is a two part mix that vulcanizes at room temp.

The form I made from some plastic material that boat builders use. The product was called "Star Board" and it machines very nicely and nothing will stick to it. To determine how much material to mix I filled the forms with water and then poured the water into a mixing cup and marked it. The forms were placed in a vacuum bag for the pour. The urethane base is thick like cold syrup, it needs to be mixed VERY well or you will have soft and hard spots. The mix is by weight so I used a gram scale to measure out the material. MIX MIX MIX scrape the stick and the sides of the cup Mix Mix Mix some more and then repeat.  As I started pouring the material into the form I applied a little vacuum to help pull in the thick mess. Once the forms were full I turned off the vacuum pump. It takes about 30 min. for the stuff to start to set. I kept tapping the forms during this time and a few big bubbles came out. There were some smaller bubbles that were trapped near the top of the form and they became apparent when I sanded the tire to give them a road worn look. They are small and I'm not going to worry about them. I let the forms set over night and parted the forms the next morning. The material takes about a week to come to full hardness. After a few days I stretched them onto the wheels using the same material to glue them in place. An interesting note: Lock tight-green-680 can be used to glue the urethane as well. It took three 1 QT kits so the tires were not cheap, but the scrap aluminum I made the wheels from was free so the cost of the Tires & Wheels was acceptable.  The shelf life of the urethane kit is very short, about 3 months; less if the can has been opened. If you don't follow the mixing instructions and change the ratio of part A to B you can start a fire or get a mix that never cures. The product is very flexible and durable; one suggested use was for repairing conveyer belts.

The wheel is black but to get any detail to show in the photo I had to overexpose the image. The wheels were anodized and dipped in black die. After sealing them I then sprayed them with a polyurethane semi gloss.

Next I will show you the rear axle and differential.

Mark T
Some times it's better to keep quiet and be thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2014, 02:35:29 PM »
Wow. Well done. That looks absolutely great.
Thanks for the postings. There's quite a bit here I'll refer to some time.
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
"To work. To work."
Zee-Another Thread Trasher.

Offline tvoght

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2014, 05:03:37 PM »
Informative and fascinating. Thanks.

--Tim

fcheslop

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2014, 07:49:26 PM »
Hi ,The injector feeds cold water into the boiler using steam along the lines of a venturi.I did not make one as I had made a feed water heater and apparently injectors dont like hot water.
Thats why I made a simple dog clutch for the engine sprocket so the engine driven pump could be used to keep the boiler up to level without having to use the hand pump in the water tank
A daft little story
Myself and a superb model builder Jimmy Mac and another Gentleman built the Claytons and once had a burn up :Lol:on an industrial estate we then worked at when the Police suddenly turned up .After  lot of humming and haring the bobby looked at us and said now children give us a go :ROFL:
cheers and good luck
frazer

Offline Roger B

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Re: 2" Clayton Power Wagon
« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2014, 08:53:57 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :whoohoo: :whoohoo:

Great tale  :)
Best regards

Roger