Author Topic: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around  (Read 53852 times)

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #135 on: March 29, 2015, 03:15:54 PM »
Displacer Piston Rod Yoke - Continued

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #136 on: March 30, 2015, 02:43:02 PM »
Cylinder Bolts

As you may recall I could not understand why the  engine did not use the same bolt concept as the original.  I thought it was a rea, pain to blind tap a bunch of holes 8 on the top and six on the bottom.  I  had modified the bolt hole diameter by a small amount and was able to set it up as the original with long bolts.  The main cylinder pulled tight from the top and the extra length used to attach the displacer cylinder.  The only hitch was making your own bolts.  For my engine they were 1.320” long.  Since they were .138 diameter for 6-32 the rod needed to be step turned so it took a little longer.  Once turned they were threaded and parted off.
Took about 3 hours.

Bob

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #137 on: March 30, 2015, 03:03:48 PM »
Nice work on those Bob. I must admit I cheated on the standard hardware and just bought the 6-32 hex bolts in the lengths needed from McMaster.

Bill

Offline sshire

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #138 on: March 30, 2015, 05:46:19 PM »
McMaster? Bill, Bill,Bill. How could you?
I got mine from American Model Supply :lolb:
Best,
Stan

Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #139 on: March 30, 2015, 06:16:51 PM »
Actually Stan, I think I had them left over from the Briggs project both in 5-40 and 6-32 sizes :) Even so, as you know, that left plenty of "other" fasteners to be made for the RE (other meaning the non-standard things with shoulders, etc.)

Bill

Offline tvoght

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #140 on: March 30, 2015, 06:33:31 PM »
Really nice work. I had forgotten until a couple of posts back about the "grill block" displacer. It's great to see how that came out. Please keep us informed about how it works in the longer term.

Your hot cap construction of stainless steel with a copper end is just the way I've been wanting to do one. I'm encouraged to try it on a future engine.

--Tim


Offline sshire

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #141 on: March 30, 2015, 06:41:09 PM »
I have no issue with "factory" hardware. Too many other "bits and bobs" to occupy my time.
I've been very happy with the "heavy hex" bolts from AMS.
Nuts and studs? Whole other issue.
Best,
Stan

Offline Tennessee Whiskey

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #142 on: March 30, 2015, 06:45:23 PM »
Another use for grill bricks, they are great for getting the winter coat off of a horse also. If anyone has trouble getting them,  PM me, I buy them by the case and will be glad to part with just a single or just a half.

Cletus

Offline sshire

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #143 on: March 30, 2015, 06:56:02 PM »
Cletus
Or, you could buy a smarter horse who knows when it's warm enough to take off his own winter coat. :lolb:
Best,
Stan

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #144 on: March 30, 2015, 07:23:07 PM »
Displacer Cylinder Gasket

I made this out of some sheet asbestos.  It is .065 thick.   I have this from when I built steam locomotives.  I used this because I wanted the best insulation I could get between the Displacer cylinder / Furnace as possible.  Keep the heat down be low so to speak.  The stuff is a bit tricky to work with but as you can see it was all done in about an hour. 
I have tried experiments with replacement materials at the above thickness and thinner.  I have not found one that will beat asbestos sheet.  My experiment consists of standing up a piece of Asbestos sheet and the recommended replacement .5” from a piece of wood.  I then hit them a propane torch.  The wood is on fire the replacement while at best the asbestos is just turning the wood a slight brown.  Now I did most of this 15 years ago so maybe somebody has a product today, but I would need to see an experiment


Bob

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #145 on: March 30, 2015, 07:42:27 PM »
Hi All

The next part I want to post is creating the pump and all its parts.  This was my first try at creating a casting.  I have a series of photos (57) each titled with an explanation covering the whole thing (Pump, check valve, cylinder, piston etc.).  It has one block of text with some explanation of how and why.  There is also a 3D PDF of the pump and some PDF drawings showing the machining sequences so you can get an idea of how to attack something like this.

My thought is to post it under Engine Ancillaries  and just post a link to that thread here. I could do the reverse also then this build would be complete here.

Also if you guys think that is a bit much I could just show  pictures of the completed pump, I just thought it would be of interest to see it appear from a block.

Bob

Offline Jimsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #146 on: April 15, 2015, 05:15:43 PM »
Hello guys
Bob is a model engine buddy of mine. WE set up in my model trailer together at several shows in our area. Stop over and see us. Bob is a real craftsman
and his models are a work of art. He well have the Rider-Ericsson there and it well be up and running.
See you all there!
Jim G.

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #147 on: April 25, 2015, 01:15:27 AM »
Pump

I decided I did not like the looks of the pump as a built up piece.  I have always wanted to try “carving” out a “casting”.  I am planning on doing this for a twin cylinder model that is in the planning stage.  I thought this would be a great way to learn.   I found a number of pictures of engines and noted that there were several designs of pumps.  Some were going to be more of a challenge than I wanted.  I included a photo of the one I picked.  I also included a 3D PDF of the pump as I drew it up.  There is also a cutaway view so you can see all the parts.   I had to guess at the dimensions since I did not have one to measure.   Given the picture and the drawing included with the prints I came up with my version of the pump.  One thing I wanted was to include all the draft angles.

The pump consists of many parts.   The Al upper casting, Al lower casting, Brass check valve assembly in the lower casting, brass cylinder,  brass gland nut, brass packing nut, stainless piston rod, brass piston, stainless pump valve, brass priming cup (with fittings), four stainless mounting bolts, two stainless bolts for lower casting attaching, two gaskets,  brass pump rod end clevis and lock nut, brass pump link, stainless bolt and nut for the clevis, and brass plug for drain hole in lower casting.  One of the advantages to drawing this in a 3D modeling CAD system (Geomagic) is you “machine” the block to get the resulting part.  So early on you get a feeling for what will need to be done to actually produce the part.
 
The machining sequence needed to be such that all holes and tapping should be done when the appropriate surface presented itself.  All holes drilled and tapped  on flat surfaces before they are rounded or angled.      

Bob         

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #148 on: April 25, 2015, 01:25:30 AM »
Pump—Continued

The block was first mounted in a four jaw and a stub machined on the end.  The stub was left as large as possible as there were a number of machining operations to be done with the stub as the only holding method.  The block was then mounted in a three jaw chuck that has the same threads as a mounting plate on my rotary table.    First the end was finished as a reference surface.  On the lathe the hole for the cylinder was drilled and reamed to size and depth, which included the upper casting length, lower casting depth for the check valve assembly, and parting off width separating the upper and lower castings.   The hole was then opened up for the 1/2—20 threads which I single pointed for maximum concentricity. 

Bob

Offline Bobsmodels

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Re: Rider-Ericsson 1/4 scale 2nd Time Around
« Reply #149 on: April 25, 2015, 01:46:53 AM »
Pump—Continued

Prior to starting the block the Gland nut was made without any of the internal features.  The packing nut was made with no hole.   The Gland nut was then placed in the end.  It was bored out per dimensions.   The packing nut threads were single pointed.   The packing nut was screwed in.  The hole for the piston rod was now drilled, bored, and reamed.  All this was done to try for maximum concentricity. 
Lastly, another “gland nut” made from 12L14 was inserted.  This nut had a center drilled into it.  This would be the outboard support for the block when on the mill.   A .700 diameter was turned on the nut which would be used as a reference for locating surfaces relative to cylinder center line once mounted in the mill.  The block was now ready to move to the mills rotary table setup.

Bob

 

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