Author Topic: foden stg5 timber tractor  (Read 8253 times)

Offline fodenman1

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Re: foden stg5 timber tractor
« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2014, 11:51:56 AM »
hi  I have had the Honda engine dismantled by the local agricultural engineers and they say its all perfect to spec  and they cant understand why the output shaft revolves on tick over either   although the engine is 12 years old from new I have only run it about 24 hours [twice a year for an hour]   so maybe the clutch needs bedding in.  many thanks for all who have replied.   fodenman1

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: foden stg5 timber tractor
« Reply #16 on: May 08, 2014, 03:10:09 PM »
I don't know if this applies, but ....
All my motorcycles has the same kind of clutch type and almost none of them could disengage the clutch fully on startup - resulting in a noisy entry into first gear.

I found a sollution on my current bikesjust before takeoff - pull and release the clutch several times before keeping it disengaged and then select first gear, and now it happens noiseless - very close to absolutely no drag.

I believe the reason it works can be summed as : After a certain time of standing still, there's no oil left between the plates and they stay as a unit when you remove the spring pressure on them (disengaging the clutch, via the lever) => result total drag until something stops the output shaft (like actually getting it into gear). So all my pull and release action eventually loosens them all up and alows oil to enter between the plates => no drag (if there's enough friction to stop the shaft - and that's fulfilled in my gearbox being a constant mesh) ....

Offline gbritnell

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Re: foden stg5 timber tractor
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2014, 05:04:19 PM »
Generally the clutch plates will stick after sitting awhile. When my motorcycle would do this I would first start and warm the engine then shut the engine off. Now put the bike in gear and while holding the clutch in, kick the engine over. This would break the plates loose.
If your engine does it all the time then it could only be one of two things. The first would be the pushrod adjustment. If there's too much clearance then it's not opening the plates all the way. The second, which I doubt because it only happens to clutches that have been well used and sometimes abused. The clutch basket develops notches where the plates ride and it's hard to open the clutch because the plates stick in the notches.
On a motorcycle there is always somewhat of a jerk, not matter how small, when selecting low gear. I think this is because there is some oil drag between the driving and driven plates which causes the clutch to somewhat turn even though the lever is pulled in.
Having worked on motorcycles almost all my life I find it hard to believe that the 'creep' would be designed into the unit. There would be no reason for it.
Here's something you might have a look at. Many years ago motor oil had metallic elements in the oil. As the pollution rules tightened the oil manufacturers started removing these elements or at least greatly reducing them. What they found was this was detrimental to motorcycle clutches so oil specific for motorcycles was produced.
Another thing that might help would be to change to fully synthetic oil, here again they have a specific blend for motorcycles although I know many people that use Mobil 1 for car engines with no problem.
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