1/4 Scale Rider-Ericsson Pumping Engine from castings.

[Jo]

Hi Bob,

Welcome to the Forum. Any chance of posting an introduction about yourself in the introduction section so the members get to know you better 

Jo

[b.lindsey]

Hi Bob, As I recall they were posted over on HMEM. Sandy may also be a member over on Madmodder but since I am not, I can't say for sure. The burner works well on the 1/4 scale RE, might be a bit large for the 1/8 scale though. I run it on a very low fuel flow even for the 1/4" RE.  I suspect some of the other members can help you locate Sandy more efficiently than I can if you don't find the plans on HMEM.

Bill

[Bobsmodels]

Thanks Bill, I will poke around on some of the other sites

Bob

[b.lindsey]

Bob, one other point if you do decide on one of the RE engines do yourself a favor and make the cylinder and hot cap out of stainless. Much easier to do from the git-go than to come back an rework it later. Might even consider it for the displacer as well.  That way no rust problems ever, and you can run water through the water jacket rather than anti-freeze.

Bill

[Bobsmodels]

Bill

I took your advice and purchased stainless for the cylinder and hot tube.  I have a question for you.  I asked a local engine rebuilding shop if they would hone the cylinder for me.  They have done others for me.  When I told them it was stainless he said no way.  He told me it is too hard even 304, and wears the stones down.   The cylinder tube I purchased has 2" ID so it just needs to be honed round and  straight after it is fitted to the casting.   The hot tube is not a problem as it is 2" also with a .065 wall and does not need to be perfectly round inside.

 So my question is how did you hone the cyclinder?  the guy at the shop said if there was a specific stone type he could get it if I could afford it.

I am set to get started this week, I like to get all the materials together first and now have them.   I just cleared off my bridgeport, it had a 100# steam chest cover on it that needed a 9" x 15" section flattened for a balanced steam valve surface that had been destroyed.  I am rebuilding a steam engine at a mueseum I volunteer at.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bob

[b.lindsey]

Bob. as I recall, I had to bore mine out some and the last few cuts were with a fine feed to get as good a finish as possible. That done, I just used a brake cylinder hone from the local auto parts store and it worked fine.  The smoothness of the bore is not as critical as it would be in an IC engine with piston rings. The RE piston uses Teflon packing instead which is more forgiving. You want it to seal but no to the point of adding too much friction to the piston's movement. Hope that makes sense.

Bill

[Bobsmodels]

Bill

Thank You, given this is seamless I will just try to hone it similar to your approach and see how it goes.

Bob

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Bob, I think as Bill said a brake cylinder hone with plenty of oil ( ATF is great) will do just fine. I have made and polished many a belt buckle from 304. Whilst I realize it isn't a cylinder wall, the stuff finishes and "polishes" wonderfully.
Just my 2 cents.

Whiskey

[b.lindsey]

Bob. as long as it is reasonably round, you should be fine. If its round and smooth both you may choose to fit the piston to ID as it is now since it probably has few if any imperfections. As I recall, the plans call for a piston undersize that is almost sloppy though I did it to a closer tolerance. That was the only issue I had with the plans overall, pretty loose fits throughout.  Anyway, keep us posted on your progress.

Bill

[NickG]

That's a neat idea, not seen them with a valve to regulate speed before!